t/c gearing
- Thread starter yjdave
- Start date
Utah_jeepster
Super Moderator
Tera 4-1 low with the tera 2 low add in...the best investment you could make without buying a Rubicon or a atlas twin stick....
Never had a problem with mine and been running it for 4 + years harder than most run there rigs.
Never had a problem with mine and been running it for 4 + years harder than most run there rigs.
currupt4130
VT Hokie
The way the transfer case is designed is that if there is a whine, the bearing is bad, and you just replace it, the same thing could happen to your current case. It's the exact same front half of the case as your's but with a different planetary set, that's part of the reason it's a good setup, its a direct bolt in replacement.
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Utah_jeepster
Super Moderator
I did the conversion about 4 1/2 years ago and only put on about 50,000 miles or so and still no problems except I had to reseal the rear out put shaft last fall since you can get some gear oil to leak down the splines of the out-put shaft when your at extreme angles. I drained the transfer case and dropped it out to check the gears and all the seals, no problems with little sign of wear. All gear lash was with-in spec and with in .0003 if installation numbers, all the seals were good. I did replace the rear seal since I bought a new one but just like Doc at Tera-flex told me it was leaking past my rear out put splines. I used a high temp RTV sealant on the splines and installed the old yoke with a new locking nut. So far I haven't thrown any gear oil out of my rear out put shaft but spring and summer is just around the corner and EJS and a planned Rubicon trip will put the jeep through its paces.
I have used Tera-flex for many years and have had no problems with there products. I still drive / off-road on one of there first long arm kits they ever sold. I have kept up the maintenance and after five years I recently replaced my long arm bushings...I wish I did this sooner since the bolts rusted/froze inside the bushings metal sleeves, and I had to use a saber saw to cut 4 of the eight bolts including a set of lower cam bolts for the front end. I painted the new ones and packed them in marine grease..hopfuly in five or so years I wont have to cut them off.
I did replace there front track bar twice before going to a Rock Krusher system and replace it six months later with a Rubicon Express front track bar which I currently have on and love.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
The 4:1 may work well out west in the rocks, but from what I've seen it is too low for Midwest trails. 2.72 seems about right for all-around trail riding around here, if your axles are properly geared.
currupt4130
VT Hokie
Here's a fun one. Start your jeep, put it in first gear low range, and then get out and walk next to it steering it. It always gets some funny looks. It's usually how I move mine around, except I just leave it in gear and start it while outside the Jeep.
redrooster
New member
Awesome.
Is the Jeep a Manual or Auto?
Is the Jeep a Manual or Auto?
redrooster
New member
I think putting the transfer case gearing in the 3.8 to 4.3 range makes for a good all around setup. Of course, this is all relevant to trans and axle gearing and tire size.
I agree in theory with what Bounty says for our areas. Most places are just too slick to crawl, so you have to set up with a ratio that will give you some wheel speed when needed. A 190:1 overall ratio is not the optimum setup where we are. I would still prefer to err to the lower side on the T-case and use 2nd gear for wheel speed.
I agree in theory with what Bounty says for our areas. Most places are just too slick to crawl, so you have to set up with a ratio that will give you some wheel speed when needed. A 190:1 overall ratio is not the optimum setup where we are. I would still prefer to err to the lower side on the T-case and use 2nd gear for wheel speed.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
I like my 2.72 with the 5.38 in the pumpkins.
redrooster
New member
That was just a number I threw out there. It would be ridiculously low.
60:1 is pretty low when mated to an auto. Mine is 43:1 with an auto and 42's. I still don't have any problem crawling when dry.
How do the brakes work when you are in Lo? Sometimes the gearing can overrun the brakes.
60:1 is pretty low when mated to an auto. Mine is 43:1 with an auto and 42's. I still don't have any problem crawling when dry.
How do the brakes work when you are in Lo? Sometimes the gearing can overrun the brakes.
I tend to agree with what a lot of people have suggested, 4-1 low is too low for wheeling in deep snow or thick mud where wheel spin is really needed. but, a stock 2.75-1 really does suck in rocks. I would prefer to have the option of both, I would prefer to do it with a transmission in a jeep SWB vehicle as in a sm 420, sm 465, etc...
IMHO I would not spend money on the 4-1 tera kit for one huge reason, older 3.8 and 4.1 atlas T-cases are going to start popping up dirt cheap now that 3 speed, 4 speed, and 19 speed t-cases are availbale in the aftermarket with ranges from stock to 10-1 low range. you could forseeably buy a used atlas for $500-$700 soon. plus you will get the benefits of being able to do front/rear digs, gear driven T-case, and an all around better unit.
IMHO I would not spend money on the 4-1 tera kit for one huge reason, older 3.8 and 4.1 atlas T-cases are going to start popping up dirt cheap now that 3 speed, 4 speed, and 19 speed t-cases are availbale in the aftermarket with ranges from stock to 10-1 low range. you could forseeably buy a used atlas for $500-$700 soon. plus you will get the benefits of being able to do front/rear digs, gear driven T-case, and an all around better unit.
