Locker in D35...Is it a waste?

Boze

New member
I need a locker to go where I want, there's no question about that. But is it just a total waste to lock my Dana 35? I usually stay pretty mellow on the trail, but sometimes I'll go berzerk on the 'ol YJ. :twisted: I drive it to work about three days a week, and wheel it almost every weekend, (SoCal desert, rocks, sand, trails). What do you guys think?
 

If you don't think your axle is strong enough or can withstand what you subject it to, then yea, its a waste. I've been running with a Model 20 on the rear and 30 on the front. still in stock form. i've done quite a bit of hardcore wheeling with my Jeep and haven't had to do anything to it exept change the fluids. After Regearing the front and rear axles, i'm planning on installing Lockers on them. i know there's a lot of guys there that would tell me it's a waste, but the bottom line is, for what i've been through with My Jeep, It's strong enough for me.
 
SH, the AMC20 is fine, pretty strong with 1-piece axleshafts.

Boze, the D35 doesn't do well when you "go berzerk on the 'ol YJ". If you can't get to where you're going with an open diff, chances are you're pretty hard on the axle already. Adding a locker will greatly increase the chances of breaking an axleshaft due to the shear force of the locker engaging under torque.

I've fixed too many D35's on the trail to recommend you put in an automatic locker.

That being said, I welded the diff in my d35 and ran it for years without any trouble. This was a 4banger with 33" swampers. A welded diff is easier on the shafts as there is no sudden lockup under power.

A ford 8.8 is an easy upgrade for your d35, as is the Chrysler 8.25 from an XJ. The 8.8 gives you disc brakes.
 
Seems like welding your diff would make it tough on the street. Doesn't it put alot of strain on your shafts when you go around turns? I'll keep my eye out for a different rear. How easy is "easy" when you're talking about swapping out the 35?
 

I've got a helper, so it's all good.
 
Seems like welding your diff would make it tough on the street. Doesn't it put alot of strain on your shafts when you go around turns? I'll keep my eye out for a different rear. How easy is "easy" when you're talking about swapping out the 35?
It puts some strain on the shafts on the street, but the inside tire usually scuffs/chirps to keep up with the outside tire. Never had a problem but it's not for everybody. I weighed the pros/cons both onroad and off, and it was a good fit for me. I've since upgraded to d44's and spools at both ends.

As far as 'easy', it's just a matter of grinding off old brackets and spring perches, and welding on new ones. You will need to know how to center the axle and properly set pinion angle.
 
Chrysler 8.25 from an XJ.

Hey Bounty Hunter, Is the Chrysler 8.25 the same one as in the '70s cars (like the Aspen/Volarie)? Do you know what year XJ they came in? Just curious... I always thought XJ's had D35s (or 44s) under them. This might explain why some XJs have a "flat bottom" pumpkin (Chrysler axle) and others have a round bottom pumpkin (D35). Thank You - John
 

The d44 was found in late '80s XJs, and the 8.25 was used throughout the '90s with the tow package. The '97+ 8.25 is just a little stronger than earlier models, 29spl axleshafts compared to the earlier 27spl.
 
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