currupt4130
VT Hokie
nice ride currupt. looks like shes had a few brushes with the rocks though. Now thats what a trail rig should look like!
You don't have a clue how many brushes with rocks that thing has had...
Why Can't I Articulate?
- Thread starter Boze
- Start date
You don't have a clue how many brushes with rocks that thing has had...
No revolvers here... They're worthless, I'm sorry.
My favorite pic ever, Paragon 2006
[/quote
dude don't be sorry everyone has and is entitled to their .02
i got a killer deal on them on ebay and i like what my revolvers have done and will do for me untill next yr when i stretch the wheelbase and 4 link it
I too will insert my $.02 on revolvers.. Horrible. First I have driven another jeep with them and this is my view based on that experience and not something I simply read on the net, going up inclines they constantly load and unload causing a lose of traction and making the front of the vehicle appear very "Lite" when articulating, there is very little down force applied to the "droop" side of the axle. They are loud and obnoxious.
currupt4130
VT Hokie
just my .02 again but just like anything else, there is good and bad, and yes it is true that going up a steep incline they'll want to or will unload and or going down a steep incline... BUT this can be compinsated for, with a suck down winch, or there is always the option of hydraulic bump stops 8) the only thing i really don't care for is when your trying to bump up over something and they want to unload while the spring is wanting to or trying to curl/wrap
but i'm making a anti-wrap bar to limit that wow hey heres a thought maybe i should have just spent the time and money and went long arm to begin :lol::lol: thought i'd say that before somebody else did oh well live and learn, build it break, it change or upgrade it repeat as far as noise yeah they do bang when they close up and the bushing hits against the frame but it for a lot of people is aceptable
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
I ran revolvers in the rear for a short time before SOA and didn't have any problems.
I dunno, If I am going to go through the hassle of fabbing up a suck down winch, I most likely should not have leaf srpings under my vehicle. Also I can't see how Hydraulic bump stops should do absolutely anything to add to the benefit of a revolver type setup.
To each their own I guess
To each their own I guess
Boze
New member
I'm trying to build my Jeep on the K.I.S.S. theory. (Keep It Simple Stupid) as you all probably know. So I'm not looking for revolver shackles, etc. What I think matters most is reliability. Give me a good solid leaf sprung Jeep with strong running gear and a reasonable "flex over it" to "put it to the wood and pray you make it over" factor, (if that makes any sense). It seems like the best real world setup for a daily driver/tough trail rig is the 1" lift boomerangs and poly-urethane bushings. I just need an SYE, and a CV shaft before I do that. AND with those shackles on top of the 4" I already have, and TJ flares, I might be able to shoehorn 37"s under this pig! Here's hoping.
Wrangl3r93
New member
I'm sitting on 5.5 inches of lift and my 33's rub like crazy on the trails. I can't see 37's happening without some serious cutting.
Maybe I missed it but what brand lift springs are you running? All springs are not created equal.
Your higher quality springs will have a better spring clamping setup to allow for better droop. Those springs that have the clamps "wrapped" around all the leafs usually don't flex as well.
Any idea how much travel your shocks have? Let's assume they're typical 4" lift shocks with about 10" of travel. If they're installed with 5-6 inches of shock stickout at static ride height, then you've only got another 4-5 inches of potential droop out of the shock.. Ideally, you want to flex the rig "without shocks" and measure max compression/droop and then install shocks that will fit that measurement while supplying enough stickout (at static ride height) to avoid bottoming out under normal driving.
For instance, my CJ5 uses 12.5" travel shocks (Rancho 9000s) up front with 5" of stickout at normal ride height. That leaves me 7.5" of potential droop at the shock. I run Rubicon Express 4" Standard Lift springs and they'll just about max out those 12.5" shocks. For my shackles, I run homemade 4" long shackles and use Grade 8 bolts with "nylock" nuts. That allows me to just cinch the bolt/nut up to the shackle allowing it to swing freely without fear of the nut backing off.
Corrupt's little blue YJ is a very capable tough rig.. I've been fortunate enough to wheel with Sam many times.. including that trip to Paragon. We had a great time!!
Your higher quality springs will have a better spring clamping setup to allow for better droop. Those springs that have the clamps "wrapped" around all the leafs usually don't flex as well.
Any idea how much travel your shocks have? Let's assume they're typical 4" lift shocks with about 10" of travel. If they're installed with 5-6 inches of shock stickout at static ride height, then you've only got another 4-5 inches of potential droop out of the shock.. Ideally, you want to flex the rig "without shocks" and measure max compression/droop and then install shocks that will fit that measurement while supplying enough stickout (at static ride height) to avoid bottoming out under normal driving.
For instance, my CJ5 uses 12.5" travel shocks (Rancho 9000s) up front with 5" of stickout at normal ride height. That leaves me 7.5" of potential droop at the shock. I run Rubicon Express 4" Standard Lift springs and they'll just about max out those 12.5" shocks. For my shackles, I run homemade 4" long shackles and use Grade 8 bolts with "nylock" nuts. That allows me to just cinch the bolt/nut up to the shackle allowing it to swing freely without fear of the nut backing off.
Corrupt's little blue YJ is a very capable tough rig.. I've been fortunate enough to wheel with Sam many times.. including that trip to Paragon. We had a great time!!
3" springs and I fit 36's no problem. Little running on the front fender at full flex, but it was "self clearencing" 37's and 4" spring under and those shackles, you should be able to fit 37's, I would suggest making sure you limit your bump stops appropriately. hitting the fender a little if one thing, smashing it into the fender is another, you run the risk of cutting a tire and that would be a huge waste of money.
currupt4130
VT Hokie
Corrupt's little blue YJ is a very capable tough rig.. I've been fortunate enough to wheel with Sam many times.. including that trip to Paragon. We had a great time!!
Eddie, I think you're the first person to say something nice about my rig in a long time...
countrygirl_mc
New member
Love the pics currupt4130...someday for me maybe.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Sounds like your springs have seriously sagged, and you need bumpstops.
The lack of bumpstops will repeatedly overcompress your springs and lead to early spring fatigue. Limit the up-travel and your springs will last a long time.
Wrangl3r93
New member
The springs have settled but haven't sagged much. I still have plenty of clearance when the jeep is sitting level. I'm constantly told my tires look a little small for my lift. The rubbing is mainly in the rear, all over my flares, and I'm hoping to get some Rubicon flares in the future to clear that up. The look on tj owners faces' are priceless when you outflex them though.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
I assumed he had a '93 and leaf springs from his username.
Similar threads
