Best Carb to buy for the 258
- Thread starter TXFour
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Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Motorcraft 2100 using the Mr. Gasket carb adapter.
Saddle Tramp
New member
Stay away from the Weber unless you can afford to throw the thing in the trash. It's a long story that some of you may have read before on other boards so I won't bore you with it but, even Redline (the maker of the Weber carb) could not make it work after I spent an additional $20 to send it back to them. What they did do is point out to me that written all over the outside of the box the carb came in are the words "NO WARRANTY WHATSOEVER". From my experience, they mean it.
I know some guys have had good luck with them but I, and I know of others, got a bum unit, the manufacture didn't care, and I lost all the money I spent on the carb plus $20. If you got an Motorcraft 2150 from a guy who didn't know how to rebuild them give them back to him and go somewhere else to get one.
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Collin the Hen
New member
1.08 MC2100. I wouldn't go much bigger than 350 cfm. It would run awfully rich.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Just because some joker was building your carbs wrong doesn't make the Weber any better of a choice than the MotorCraft. From what I've seen, the Motorcraft is easier to tune and performs better at angles.
defmornahan
New member
I have a Weber 34/34 DGEV which I ordered from Quadratec and it seems to work fine, except I've had issues with the choke. I think it binds and sticks sometimes, and the spring can't always make it move the way it should. I also put a fuel pressure regulator on it and found out the recommended 3.5 psi setting was too low (it would stall and try to die out of stops when I'd just recently turned the engine on); turning it up to 5.5 psi fixed that.
If I had it to do over, I'd probably get the mc 2100 just because it's cheaper. The Weber North America guys were pretty nice about taking it back and trying to adjust the choke for free, but I got what I paid for and it really wasn't any better afterward.
If I had it to do over, I'd probably get the mc 2100 just because it's cheaper. The Weber North America guys were pretty nice about taking it back and trying to adjust the choke for free, but I got what I paid for and it really wasn't any better afterward.
Thankfully, there is no 34/34 DGEV. The 34 DGEC is trouble enough.
Possibly I could help with the choke issue. Since there is no exploded view available for that carb, if you could you post up a picture of your choke assembly I would be willing to try and help with yours.
Shopping readers, look at the DGEV 32/36 for an electric choke or the DGAV 32/36 for the water heated choke. Both of these could easily be converted to a manual choke with a small cup choke kit from the local parts store. Or for those shopping for a manual choke version of the good old school Webers check out the DGV 32/36. This will save a considerable amount of cash and still deliver you a quality product.
Which one??
Webers are listed in Series (models). Each will or will not have different sizes to chose from. Anyone seeking help will benefit by listing the type of Weber, rather than the size of the venturis.
If you have purchased either of the DGV Series, you have made a wise choice. Lots of support and information in print, and on the net, in theory,setup,use and in maintenance of this fine carburetor.
Collin the Hen
New member
Bump.
I completely take back what I said. I was typing out of my :bootyshake:.
At least on my 258, 1.08 is way too lean. I have 48 sized jets, an Edelbrock triangle filter, and an old muffler for exhaust.
My plugs are glossy white, my engine pings, and the exhaust will burn your eyes from their sockets. On the other hand, I used to get 18+ mpg, but that was before my fifth gear flew away.
I'll post back after/if I get a 1.14 or 1.21.
Just thought I'd mention this to whomever it may concern.
I'm still new to the Jeep scene, so please forgive the ignorance. I am going to need a new carb too and have the non-stepper motor, non-electric choke BBD. What's so bad about going with a rebuilt BBD? I've read about the problems they have, but isn't that the result of people who don't maintain them?
Absolutely.
The BBD is a great carb when it is maintained.
Recommended to receive a kit (15-20 bucks) at each scheduled tune will keep them purring. No carb will give you better MPG.
Of course a worn throttle rod bore will cause grief and is too expensive of a repair to be cost effective, IMO.
Clogged idle tubes is the most problematic/reoccurring issue with the BBD,... however drilling the crimped ends to .032 will correct that.
Saddle Tramp
New member
The bottom line is the BBD carburetor was designed to meet the new emissions requirements of the day, not to be consumer friendly. The end result produced a complicated carb and emission system and it was only a matter of time before problems would begin.
The carb as you know has pins inside the throat that move in and out in a environment that is sucking down a fuel and air mixture that can be effected by the smallest amount of foreign matter while the rubber tubes associated with the emissions end of the system become brittle and crack from the heat and vibrations of the motor.
Trouble, trouble, trouble. Looks good on paper but in all reality, ain’t worth the powder to blow....
The carb as you know has pins inside the throat that move in and out in a environment that is sucking down a fuel and air mixture that can be effected by the smallest amount of foreign matter while the rubber tubes associated with the emissions end of the system become brittle and crack from the heat and vibrations of the motor.
Trouble, trouble, trouble. Looks good on paper but in all reality, ain’t worth the powder to blow....
