No Oil Pressure (New oil pump already)

[newagecustoms]

Ok i replaced the old oil pump, oil filter, and the oil. I also took the oil pan off and clean all the internal parts and the rockers as well as the pins. after putting everything together, it cranks easily (just like new). but still no oil pressure. You can hear ticking but not really any knocking HELPPPPPP PLEASEEE!!!

 

[TerryMason]

What type and year of Jeep?

 

[SteelHeadz]

When you say "Cranks", you mean it doesn't run on it's own power?. The ticking noise could be the hydraulic lifters that has lost it's prime or collapsed. The starter isn't sufficient enough to produce the correct RPM for the oil pump to do it's job. If the engine block and the oil pump is completely dry, i would recommend that you pre-prime the oil galleys by removing the oil pressure sending unit and with the use of a hand pump unit, pump some engine oil through the sending unit port. This will help the new oil pump as well as all the bearings in the engine where the galleys leads to and keep it from damage. From your prior thread, Bounty_Hunter has mentioned that this engine probbably induced some water, If so, if the water mixed with oil gets pumped into the lifters, they will have to be purged with the new oil either with the new oil pump or the conventional bench bleed and prime.

 

[newagecustoms]

ok i replaced the sending unit. And Now the oil pressure jumps from 0 to 20 when i give it alittle gas but at idle, it returns to zero. So i took the value cover off. Then started the engine, all rockers where moving but some would shoot oil and others wouldn`t. i`m not sure what to do now.

 

[SteelHeadz]

Make sure the push rods are not plugged up and the lifters are not collapsed.

 

[newagecustoms]

I took off the value head cover and clean the rockers as well as the rods, when I started her up she would only shoot oil through some of the rods and not others. What ya think

 

[SteelHeadz]

OIL PRESSURE

SPECIFICATION</B> SPECIFICATION</B> At Curb Idle Speed* 89.6 kPa (13 psi) @ 1600 and Higher Rpm 255 - 517 kPa (37 - 75 psi) Oil Pressure Relief 517 kPa (75 psi.)
The pump draws oil through the screen and inlet tube from the sump at the rear of the oil pan. The oil is driven between the drive and idler gears and pump body, then forced through the outlet to the block. An oil gallery in the block channels the oil to the inlet side of the full flow oil filter. After passing through the filter element, the oil passes from the center outlet of the filter through an oil gallery that channels the oil up to the main gallery which extends the entire length of the block.
Galleries extend downward from the main oil gallery to the upper shell of each main bearing. The crankshaft is drilled internally to pass oil from the main bearing journals (except number 4 main bearing journal) to the connecting rod journals. Each connecting rod bearing cap has a small squirt hole, oil passes through the squirt hole and is thrown off as the rod rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the camshaft lobes, distributor drive gear, cylinder walls, and piston pins.
The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly from the main oil gallery. Oil is provided to the camshaft bearing through galleries. The front camshaft bearing journal passes oil through the camshaft sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to the oil pan under the number one main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve tappets which pass oil through hollow push rods to a hole in the corresponding rocker arm. Oil from the rocker arm lubricates the valve train components, then passes down through the push rod guide holes in the cylinder head past the valve tappet area, and returns to the oil pan. I would have to assume that the valve tappets are at fault OR there is a restriction on the oil supply from their respective oil gallleys. Here's the specs. and the illustration of the oil flow.

 

[Turbogus]

Hey Mikey, do you know where I can score a hand pump oil unit? Not for my 'Black Betty' going to prime the pump on my bike.
Thanks and a lift of the lynch lid.

 

[newagecustoms]

OK, This is whats happing as of now i still have a tickin nosie under the value cover plus now the I'm hearing knocking sound. Buddy of mind told me crankshaft bearings are out. Does any one know how to replace these or around how much it cost to do so?

 

[SteelHeadz]

Hey Mikey, do you know where I can score a hand pump oil unit? Not for my 'Black Betty' going to prime the pump on my bike.
Thanks and a lift of the lynch lid.

I bought mine from Napa. It's a red hand pump that has two long rubber lines. One is suction and the other one is feed.

 

[SteelHeadz]

OK, This is whats happing as of now i still have a tickin nosie under the value cover plus now the I'm hearing knocking sound. Buddy of mind told me crankshaft bearings are out. Does any one know how to replace these or around how much it cost to do so?

The cost is contingent to the extent of the damage. If the crankshaft bearing surface is deformed due to the knocking, you will either need a new crankshaft or if possible get it machined and install a thicker bearing. If the piston rod is damaged, replacement would be the solution. This worn crankshaft bearing could very well be the reason your oil pressure is not up to specs. due to a lack of restriction from the bearing to the crank.

 

[newagecustoms]

How would you know if the crank is scared? .... I took the oil pan off today and one at a time i took the rod bearings out and check them out they look fine i assume i mean there wasnt any chips missing or any damge done. After putting them back together. I started on the main bearings and they were the same. I must be not doing something right. As far as the cam shaft i`m thinking i can take the front bumper and radiator off and that would make it easier to remove the cam shaft instead of removing the motor. Any one tried this or any other ideas?

 

[SteelHeadz]

If the rod bearings and or the crank bearings has spun or scored , it will leave some gouges on the bearing mating surface, in which case you would be able to determine if it's repairable or needs to be replaced. Yes, the camshaft can only be pulled by removing the entire radiator housing assembly. It's not difficult at all. there's around 4 bolts on each fender well, one on the bottom center and one on each side of the top support bars. Disconnect the lighting harness and route them off the radiator assembly. you should be able to pull that off with the radiator, reservoir, and washer tank in place with the ratiator support as a unit.

 

[newagecustoms]

what is the chance of a slaping piston?

 

[SteelHeadz]

Possible. Depending on the severity of the slack, a light piston slap is similar to a spark knock.

 

[newagecustoms]

If it is a piston slapping what is there to do to fix it? Beside replacing the motor.

 

[SteelHeadz]

Depends, wrist pin, wrist pin bearing, rod bearing or piston rings.

 

[Jeeper99]

Mikey is "THE MAN" when it comes to this stuff! He has dug me out of a hole on several occasions!