Slave Cylinder on 94 YJ 2.5L w/4 spd

simontonbill

New member
I'm a little stumped and my search for info on my problem didn't come up with anything that helped.

The line from the fluid resevoir to the transmission for the slave cylinder rusted and broke where it transitioned from a hard plastic to metal. I cut the line and put on a compression coupling. Now I'm trying to bleed the line and I'm getting pressure off the bleed line but the clutch isn't being engaged. When the clutch is being pumped I can tell the line is being pressurized. It's full of fluid and isn't leaking but the clutch simply will not engage and the pedal just flops.

I've worked on a lot of different vehicles but I've never seen a slave cylinder set-up like this. The line just disappears into the bell housing on the transmission. I guess I've got to pull the whole transmission to get to it huh?

What a horrible design! I guess I was just wondering if anybody has seen something similar to this. Is there something else I should try before pulling the transmission? This is a beach jeep and I've replaced every brake line on it over the last 3 years due to rust. I'm thinking that something inside the bell housing broke/came loose when I was fixing the hose. Any ideas/suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

I think you are going to need to pull the transmission. Jeep stopped putting the slave inside the bell housing but I believe it was the 1995 model year. You just missed it.
 
I took it to my mechanic buddy today and he's thinking he can rig up a better compression fitting patch on the line to keep from pulling it. He said even though he needs the money he'd rather do anything to try to get it fixed short of pulling the transmission. I'm hoping! I'll have to sell a gun or two if we have to go all the way....glad it's not my daily driver:)

Thanks guys,
 




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Alright guys, my buddies slave cylinder has gone out on his YJ. ... Jeep Forum Classifieds JeepSpace Reviews Gallery Blogs Clubs Groups Videos Wiki ... With 94+95 models you can just unbolt it and be done. ... Lol, he doesn't have a manual, and if he did I don't think it would do us any good anyway. ...
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My '94 2.5L is external slave: no need to pull the transmission. You also cannot blled the external slave: you have to replace the whole thing, but it is not expensive, and simple to do.
 
My '94 2.5L is external slave: no need to pull the transmission. You also cannot blled the external slave: you have to replace the whole thing, but it is not expensive, and simple to do.


I wonder if Jeep started to use the external slave before the 94 year was over when old parts ran out or if they did it to just the I4 prior to 95? I always though the no bleed self contained system was a bit odd.
 

Mine is a 1994 and all the parts catalogs say it's external but it's not! I wish it was though. Like Saddle Tramp said I think it depends on the DOM. They used them till they ran out I guess. Just my luck.

Another odd thing is that most companies went from an external to an internal not the other way around. Odd...

And 54cj3b I found that link too but a manual for a 94 doesn't do any good if it shows the wrong set-up:)
 
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My advise, go to www.4bangerjp.com, and download the Factory Service Manual (look in the FAQ) for the '94; I'm sure it should be listed there how to do either one (they have other years as well).
 
something odd about this. (i was using info in this post to help with a diffent problem i was having great links guys)

quote: It's full of fluid and isn't leaking but the clutch simply will not engage and the pedal just flops

ok engage proberly is disingage......if the master/slave had failed then the clutch stays engaged and you can not select a gear with the engine running.

pedal flops? proberly means that the peddle is easy to press down on.
(hope this doesnt mean it stays down on its own)

bleed line has pressure. the internal had a bleed line according to the manual which comes out other side of the bell housing has pressure. eg if you depress peddle oil squirts out.

now heres my thoughts and they might be wrong

peddle moves easy-clutch doesnt disengage-no leaks or lost fluid-small pressure on bleed line.

clear plastic pepsi bottle-drill hole in end cap and use a fish tank airline (clear rubber $1 in wally world) connect tube from bottle cap to bleed line-cut bottom out of bottle and get someone to hold higher than master-add small amount of brake fluid to bottle so act as a air lock (should look like the jeep has a iv connected to it) pump clutch slowly and you will see the fluid being pumped up into the bottle you will also see the bubbles coming up the line into the bottle. all fluid no bubbles then air isnt problem.

the internal thrust should go to max if the fork is broken so if you pump clutch and nothing pushs the slave back then the peddle should get hard or oil should leak out even if the clutch doesnt disengage.

so maybe the master is leaking by so any real amount of pressure goes back past the seal thus no leaks no clutch. would be weird that master failed at same time the line did but??????????

i carnt get over the peddle flopping if theres air in the line it should still have some pressure unless the master is airlocked but then there shouldnt be pressure on the bleed line....
 

They are easy to switch to external slave while doing a clutch change. The internal one has a bleeder valve (probably what's needed) and the external ones with no bleeder need to be taken off and have one person push the pedal SLOWLY till the piston in the slave comes all the way out and allows the air trapped behind it to barely "burp" then push it back together before allowing the pedal to come up.
Back in the early Ford Zephyr days, bleeders were below the top and trapped air so we had to do that to get them working right.
 
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