tie rod flip?

[abe]

Jeep Cherokee Wrangler Tie Rod Flip Kit HIGH STEER KIT [J202] - $18.99 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

Has anyone done this? how hard is it and do i need special tools? Also will i need to replace the pitman arm back to stock? If you have done this, IS THERE GOING TO BE BINDING? Thanks

 

[jps4jeep]

I have not done it, know people who have but not with this kit. it will work wonders on a TJ, XJ or ZJ with a 4"+ lift to solve some bump steer issues. it will also get your steering up and out of the way a little. I personally would not weld the sleeves in though.

people I know simply drill out then re-ream the knuckle from the top and then just bury the tre into the knuckle use washers to space down the castel nut on the threads.. this method is also for a trail vehicle and I woud not recomend it for a street vehicle, plus the reamer cost what this kit cost.

 

[abe]

i was thinking the same thing on welding them in. i do like the idea. do the people u know have good things to say or do they have problems.

 

[jps4jeep]

I think ther eis contact issues on coil sprung vehicles with sway bar mounts, but I can not verify this. best bet, get a broom stick and with the tires lock to one side, lay the broom stick from knuckle to knuckle, if nothing contacts, turn steering in other direction then check the same. if all seams good, assume it is. if you have the ability, do the same with the suspension flexed to the bump stops, I doubt it will make a difference though.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

You're not gaining a whole lot by doing it to only one end of the steering linkage. I would do both ends for any noticeable gain. You won't have to change your pitman arm out if you only do the driver's side end of the steering as the draglink connects nearer the passenger side.

I would recommend these from a more trusted retailer: Goferit Products!

To do it correctly and flip both sides, you will need a draglink from a right-hand drive TJ or XJ. The bend in the draglink is opposite what you have now and works perfectly when run upside down to the top of the steering arm.

 

[xjmarc]

Teraflex sells the inserts for $10. Like stated it only raises the driver side and doesn't really effect steering. All you gain is a few inches of clearance on one side. To do the other side you have to relocate the sway bar mounts and get a new drag link.

 

[Sid1966]

Did you not install the rugged ridge steering? my steering has a forged end on passanger side that cant be flipped and the steering is connected by a solid link knuckle to knuckle,if you lift the drivers side to the top and leave passanger side on the bottom you might be exceeded the amount of travel in your TRE and cause premature wear or complete failure,i have checked into doing this and decided to just run the steering as is. A buddy of mine has the tapered reamer already and after many measurements we decided that we could not get it to work properly. hope this helps but take lots of measurements before you start drilling

 

[jps4jeep]

wow, completly missed that it was only the drivers side.. that does seem pointless.

 

[abe]

You're not gaining a whole lot by doing it to only one end of the steering linkage. I would do both ends for any noticeable gain. You won't have to change your pitman arm out if you only do the driver's side end of the steering as the draglink connects nearer the passenger side.

I would recommend these from a more trusted retailer: Goferit Products!

To do it correctly and flip both sides, you will need a draglink from a right-hand drive TJ or XJ. The bend in the draglink is opposite what you have now and works perfectly when run upside down to the top of the steering arm.

I do have a upgraded tie-rod and drag-link set up. there is no bend in the drag-link that i noticed but i did have to adjust the knuckle stops bc the heads on the tie-rod would hit the inside of my rim. if i were to flip them it would get them out of the way and i could have my turning radios back. i will keep what u said in mind and if u have used go fer it products then ill check them out. thanks ok i spoke too early about the bend it does have one but very minimal.

 

[abe]

Did you not install the rugged ridge steering? my steering has a forged end on passanger side that cant be flipped and the steering is connected by a solid link knuckle to knuckle,if you lift the drivers side to the top and leave passanger side on the bottom you might be exceeded the amount of travel in your TRE and cause premature wear or complete failure,i have checked into doing this and decided to just run the steering as is. A buddy of mine has the tapered reamer already and after many measurements we decided that we could not get it to work properly. hope this helps but take lots of measurements before you start drilling

yes i did get the rugged ridge steering i spoke too early to bounty i said there wasnt a bend in the pass side tre well there is its slight but im not sure if im going to do this there just seems to be too much risk not enough reward guess ill just hang my head and keep looking for some real axles. and build them the way i want.

 

[xjmarc]

I had the rugged ridge steering and they don't make a passenger side knuckle that can be ran on top. I tried using a Chevy one ton end but the rugged ridge is a metric thread even though it says 7/8" it ain't and wouldn't fit.