What did you do to your Jeep today?


Finally got to changing the brake rotors and pads.

BP Slotted Rotors front and back in black zinc. Same ones I had on my previous land cruiser.

Braking feels good, no vibrations and they stop well.

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$1179 for the jeep. I don't need to eat this week anyway. Now to deal with the warranty co. to see how much I can get reimbursed.
 
$1179 for the jeep. I don't need to eat this week anyway. Now to deal with the warranty co. to see how much I can get reimbursed.
I' push for all of it plus rental cost and any other convienance cost due to it being such an early fail. It's not like you got 20-30k miles on it. You got maybe what 2-3k on it.

Did you get another 331 head or different?
 
i got to wish i drove it to work today.

man, it got cool these past couple of days and i am going to have to reevaluate my procrastinating about swapping engines. i cannot do this out in the cold so i am going to have to clear some space in the garage to pull it in and do the engine swap
 
Did a couple things latley new HEI distributor Motor craft 2150 Carb and smity built src front bumper with a 12k winch and 4 lights
 

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Installed a Prolink loaded shackle. This piece is a work of art.
 

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I like the idea of it, But it being made out of aluminum makes me question how strong is it gonna be.
16,000 pound max load rating
SAFER STRONGER SMARTER​


Replace conventional winch hooks with the new safer, stronger, and smarter Factor 55 ProLink shackle mount.

Factor 55 introduces the new ProLink shackle mount for winch cables and synthetic ropes. Engineered and machined in the USA from lightweight billet 6061 aluminum, the ProLink provides a safe means to easily attach a standard 3/4" screw pin shackle to existing winch cable and rope eyes The cable or rope eye is captured into the body of the ProLink by a removable oversized 5/8" double shear pin. The front of the ProLink provides the precision shackle mounting hole and massive 1.2" thick mounting tab. The ProLink is compatible with both Hawse and Roller fairleads and snugs neatly against both versions.

The advantages of winching with a screw pin shackle over a conventional winch hook are many :
  • Screw pin shackles are up to 5X stronger than conventional winch hooks
  • Conventional hooks are too small to safely fit both ends of a recovery strap
  • Recover straps cannot slip out of a shackle like they can with hooks
  • Hook safety latches are not rated for loads and can tear recovery straps
  • Conventional hook surfaces add higher stresses to recovery strap fibers, resulting in decreased strap ratings
  • Shackles can be quickly removed and stowed away until needed for winching.
  • Hooks do not cinch neatly against fairleads and are prone to rattling and loosening
  • Conventional winch hooks are designed for chains – not commonly used recovery straps

  • Engineered, Tested, and Made in USA — Patent Pending
  • Stress analyzed using COSMOS FEA and destructively tested for confirmation
  • Billet construction — precision machined from 6061-T6 Kaiser Aluminum round bar
  • 16,000 pound max load rating
  • Fits all steel cables and synthetic ropes up to 3/8" in diameter
  • Fits eyes equipped with standard or tube thimbles to 3/8 inch diameters
  • 1.2 inch shackle tab thickness virtually eliminates "shackle rattle"
  • Massive 5/8 inch diameter carbon steel double shear pin - 6Al-4V Titanium upgradeable
  • Optional EPDM "Rubber Guard" protects alloy Hawse fairleads — rubber barb attachment
  • Can be installed and removed in minutes — simple snap ring removal
  • Cinches neatly against all types of fairleads — Hawse or Roller
  • Beautifully anodized and zinc plated in the USA
 
I had read that before I commented. I would be concerned of it becomeing elongated after multiple heavy uses. I would keep an eye on the hole that the shackle pin goes through,and the pin area that your cable attaches to. 6061 aluminum is a general purpose alloy, commenly used in aircraft and bicycle frames. at 25-30% of elongation it will fracture. It may be perfectly fine in your case,but in my opinion I wouldn't want any thing made out of aluminum attached to my winch. Good luck with it,and keep us posted on how it works out.
 

Discovered I'm going to have to do some frame repair :(
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I'm going to have to rig up something to make sure the transfer case skid doesn't fall till I can afford it

Sent from my DROID 2 Global
 
I threw in a 2" BB yesterday after work. A little under 2 hours. I work in a garage so I had all the equipment at my disposal. I'm not sure if I like the way it sits. The rear appears to be higher than the front. Before the lift the rear was lower. I was looking for a more level look. Maybe its the wheelwells that are throwing me off. I'll get out there today and take some measurements and snap a few pics to post.
 
loaded the bike rack and road bike on the jeep and headed out to meet the local riding group. did 26 miles, went to breakfast, and now am getting ready to play call of duty.
 

There is a major fallacy regarding the so called 6161 T6 Aluminum billet as being "aircraft grade". It is in aircraft building for non structural parts such as seat frames, instrument panels and so on. Airframes are usually built out of 7075 Aluminum because it's strength. 6061 is not necessarily a very strong material. Of course if it is built strong enough it can carry heavy loads. I am sure it will be more than strong enough for your Jeep. There are lots of things that will break in a Jeep if exposed to a 16,000 pounds of torque..... But the idea that that part with a 5/8 pin can be exposed time after time to loads of 16,000lbs of pull will have me worried a bit. Gennybro is a former machinist I believe and so am I and we know a thing or two about metals......
 
superj said:
loaded the bike rack and road bike on the jeep and headed out to meet the local riding group. did 26 miles, went to breakfast, and now am getting ready to play call of duty.

Try COD on a 10' screen. My son will never go back to h is room.
 

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