Fail!

Well some progress swapped out the distributer with another one I had laying around. After the swap now when I start it it does not reve as high anymore. It's now starts at 10000 and idles down to around 8000
 
Well...Assuming that those are not relatively new plugs, they look as they should. I can't tell from the picture, but do you have a air pump (think they would have only been required on CA models during that time frame)? Also you should have a EGR valve (looks like any actuator valve that links the exhaust manifold with the intake to recycle CO2 and other gases. Take a close look at that. It will have a vaccum line connected at the top (diaphram) that leads to a thread block plug. Look for leaks, cracked tubing and/or an out right disconnect. I will search for that schematic for you later today. A malfunctioning EGR valve can cause serious emission bypass.

As for your carb, thats about right (regardles of the type) the 1000 rpm at cold start is caused by the choke, there is a high/fast idle that steps down during the warm up. It can be adjusted if you're not happy with it. It will have little to do with your emission problems.
 
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Not sure on the air pump where would it be located? The EGR valve it connected to the EGR TVS on the air cleaner just as the diagram I used said to.
 
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Anyone ever heard of or tried putting everclear or rubbing alcohol in the gas tank to help with passing emissions?
 
So took the jeep to emissions today and it failed. Any ideas on what to do? Carbon monoxide to high at 94.83 standard is 25.00


not sure if your state has them or not but we just put farm plates on stuff that doesn't pass or register it in a buddies name that is outside of DEQ
 

If the thermostat is stuck open, the CO will be high. Timing too far ahead can cause it too. I do an oil change right before going in and that usually helps. Vapor cannister soggy from the fuel tank being over filled is another. Vacuum leak along the intake. Metering rods not set right, float too high (if the line going into the carb is loose, the weight of the filter will swing it down and that backs the seat of the needle/seat out, which raises the float level)
Grab the carb and see if the body is loose by twisting it. If it is, get a new carb base gasket, and take off the carb, tighten the bottom screws (and the top ones at the back) that hold the body together and try again. That's the usual BBD problems I have run into.
 
Actually in Maryland the historic tag rule is 20 model years or older *IF* the model is no longer in production. If the model is still in production it must be 25 years or older. The example given for the 25 year rule is Mustangs/Camaros. So it depends on whether or not the guy at the MVA decides that the "Wrangler" is still a production model in which case you'd have to wait a few extra years.
 
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