A little help with paint please.

duckkillerclyde

New member
I want to paint my jeep.

I am going to do it myself. I have no training but have painted several duck boats and semi-trailers.

How do you go about painting the firewall without removing everything?


I was thinking taping things off but that seems like it would take just as long as removing items.


I was going to use a flat paint. Do I need to clear coat this with a flat clear coat? I never have used a clear coat on any of my boats or trailers that I have painted. I am not after a showroom finish but don't want to look like it was painted by retarded turtle either.

What other problems am I going to run into?


I was going to do it like this;

pull out carpet and seats and padding around roll bar

wash all oil, dirt, and debris.

sand with random orbital sander, then use a scotch bright pad.

blow off with air.

tape off windshild, dash, tires, wheels, remove lights cover engine

paint away.


:???::???::???::???::???:


What do you think?
 

I am no painter, but it sounds like you are going to take all the paint off and start with bare metal.
You don't need to do all of that. Like I said im no painter but my brother is. when he did mine he sanded the paint smooth, blew it off, wet sanded it, blew it off again, then used some type of solvent and wiped the whole thing down. He said it removed any missed oil or dirt off, even the oil from your hands. Then painted it. Thats about the only help I can give you.
 
I have no idea bit I would rough it up, wipe it down, then paint.


Note: my paint jobs look like crap when done though
 
I've painted a few times, including my CJ7, and more recently my TJ's half doors. I've painted in my garage (There is still green paint on the walls and my tool box), and in my driveway (be ready for bugs permanently in your paint).

It's harder than you think it is. The actually application of paint isn't too bad - just go light and try to prevent runs. The hard part is the prep. I'd suggest removing as much stuff as you can. You'll need to hang up your doors, the hood, the tailgate, etc. It's easier to remove a door lock or hood tie down than to tape around it. Be sure to remove / treat all rust before painting - The new paint on my CJ7 bubbled up in within 6 months.

You'll probably need to use something finer than a scotch brite pad, start off with some coarse sandpaper and work your way up to 1000 grit. This won't be hard if you have decent paint already, but is tough if you are patching with bondo.

Go for it, but be sure to take your time on the prep. I'd plan to be without your Jeep for a week or two while you do the work.
 

First, I am NOT a paint and body guy, but I have restored plenty of vehicles including several jeeps. Here is my quick answer’s to your questions.

Single stage flat paint will NOT NEED a satin clear. If you use dual stage paint, you WILL NEED a clear. There are paints and clears that are designed to be applied for the “flat” finish.

If the current paint is in good shape, do as you stated (cleaning and removing stuff.) Make sure you wash the exterior of the jeep to remove and tar, bugs and sap. Again if the old paint is in good shape then I would skip the sander and go straight to a 3M green pad and scuff up the paint real good then hit it with a 3M red pad. This simply creates the tooth needed for the paint to adhere. You do not need to take the body to bare metal unless your doing rust repair. Wipe everything down with a degreaser, I use the duli-color stuff from autozone. I bought a HVLP spray gun from Harbor Freight with a medium orifice, a cheap filter and regulator. I apply even coat of primer, then even coat of sealer, then I jam the body with color. Jamming is spraying any part of the vehicle that is not on the exterior (door jams, the interior floor, back of doors and tail gate, inside edges of the hood.) Close the hood and door then I would put on color coats. For a daily driver 3 thin coats will be enough. Even for a single stage paint, I like to spray 2-3 thin coats of clear simply for protection, and gloss.
After the paint is allowed to fully dry, I make an assessment for orange peel and runs. If it is a daily driver, generally I would just re-assemble and be done. One vehicle I painted, I really wanted it to look good (because I was flipping it) so I wet sanded the clear with 1000 then 1500 then 2000 then 2500 grit paper followed by a good buffing.

Too add, if you use a HVLP gun, reduce the paint per the instructions.

These paint jobs are not show quality, but they work and look pretty good.
 
I got a question too. From what I have seen many painters bake their vehicle to dry it. Is that really necessary? Is there a certain type of paint that needs a bake and a type that doesn't?
 

I think they bake it just to completly dry faster. After a paint job they tell you dont drive it at night or wash is for a few days. The bugs at night hitting the hood can take the paint off and the same with washing it until its COMPLETLY dry, the outer layer of paint dries, but the paint underneeth that is still drying for a few days. When my brother painted mine, I didnt completly listen to him and the day he painted it, I drove it at night and I have bug indentions on the front edge of my hood. Actual painters may have a better answer.
 
69jeepcj said:
I think they bake it just to completly dry faster. After a paint job they tell you dont drive it at night or wash is for a few days. The bugs at night hitting the hood can take the paint off and the same with washing it until its COMPLETLY dry, the outer layer of paint dries, but the paint underneeth that is still drying for a few days. When my brother painted mine, I didnt completly listen to him and the day he painted it, I drove it at night and I have bug indentions on the front edge of my hood. Actual painters may have a better answer.

Ok i can co that. How long does it take to dry?
 
I don't really know. I will see my brother this morning who paints for a living and will ask. How are you painting it? with a can or a paint gun.? Asking because I would think the paint gun would take longer to dry simply because the coats will be thicker...I think! Just so I can tell him how your painting it, may make a dif.
 

69jeepcj said:
I don't really know. I will see my brother this morning who paints for a living and will ask. How are you painting it? with a can or a paint gun.? Asking because I would think the paint gun would take longer to dry simply because the coats will be thicker...I think! Just so I can tell him how your painting it, may make a dif.

More than likely a grav. Air gun. I have been told that cans look bad
 
He said it all depends on the clear that you use. If you are in a hurry use a fast hardener and can sand and buff that day. If youre not in a hurry then a medium harder is fine and can sand and buff the next day. If youre not sanding and buffing then just use a medium hardener. medium hardener wait until the next day. Fast hardener paint in the morning and should be good by night. fast hardener can wash and drive at night the next day, medium hardener should wait two days. Hope that helps.
 
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