CJ7 power steering pulley work out

Tony Marc

New member
So..... Just curious.

Should a power steering pulley be that difficult to get off? So far I had no luck with the good old harbor freight pwr steering puller. Got a similar one from pep boys for a bit more $$$$. Still no luck.
I've let it soak with some PB Blaster for at least a week or two. Still no movement. I think at this point I bent the edges so much that the puller slips.

So my thought is to break out the MAP gas and heat it up. I'm not concerned about melting the pump seals. I'm just trying to get the pulley off to powder coat it. Is it usually this hard to get off ? I have another pump with pulley on it that I didn't try to remove yet. Just thought I'd get some other opinions before I wreck 2 pulleys.
One unit came off of a 84 and the other came off an 85..... Both had the 258 motor if that matters.

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The older pump pulleys did come off with a fight but came off . Had trouble with a ford unit once too which is probably similar to what you got now. The penetrating soak is well reasonable time and maybe someone burred the shaft installing the pulley ? But if it spins straight , hard to say . If you can still get a good bite on the hub , maybe try putting a shim that fits tight to the hub and slips into the puller cup to help grip , you can get enough tension on the forcing screw to rap,it smartly but not like it owes you money to create some resonance to shock it loose as you continue to tighten . Worth a shot , be careful with the other unit if you attempt to,remove its pulley , sure you learned how not to over muscle the tool . No , shouldn't be THIS tough . Agreed. But keep in mind , press fit IS tight tolerance so,the pulley never slips off while engine is running. So we must expect them to be tight fit. And yes , the MAP has will melt the seal but could render the pulley hub unserviceable after the tools gets done with it . Something like this attempt is probably what got the pulley stuck on the first pump if its not the shaft that's burred .
 
Thanks for the reply... Well tonight was an epic failure. Tried using the tool on the "untouched" pulley. Still no dice. The new removal tool from pep boys didn't damage the pulley as much as the harbor freight one. See attached pictures. The first 2 pics are from tonight. Again. Not too much damage.... But the pulley still won't come off. The other two pics..... Well. I think that one is going to be the test mule. It's already all bent up. Not much to grab onto anymore.

So.... I guess MAP gas is going to be the next go around. My other thought was just to get another pulley.... But I can't seem to find one.....

Well.... This could be a tutorial on what not to do!!!!

Thanks again... And feel free to comment on my he man attempts that left the score : pulley 2 me 0.

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Thank you for your reply and photo posting. Well, it seems this otherwise "simple" task IS proving to be a tutorial. After seeing the pictures , I must ask a question about the tool used for this venture. I'm guessing that the forcing screw of the tool has a wide surface which applies pressure to the top of the shaft as the cup grips the pulley. This only serves to spread the shaft creating an outward expansion toward the pulley making it difficult to pull the pulley off of a surface which is now being increased in width due to flex . The shaft is spreading under pressure and your losing what little space tolerance wise there is to extract the pulley off .simply put , the wrong method is being applied. Not at all questioning your ability , but I'm thinking the tool vended may be wrong for the application. The last time I did a ford power steering pump pulley removal for a water pump job on a '97 3.8 liter mercury cougar , the puller had a pin type forcing screw which reached down inside the shaft applying the pressure inside the shaft , not on the end. Applying pressure to the end will result in a mushroom effect to the shafts end making extraction obviously difficult. Your welcome to post the tool but I think it is better served to ask if the tool has a forcing screw with a pin end that will reach inside the shaft to aid extraction. Also , the internal hole of the shaft should have thread which will have to be restored ( remove rust ) to aid in the reinstalation of the pulley. So , to sum up , the correct tool to remove this pulley should have a pin type end on the forcing screw. The pressure should in effect be applied inside deep on the shaft , not to the end. It really should not be necessary to use map gas or even propane if the metal is not severely rusted or corroded. It appears that your pump(s) are not that far advanced in corrosion.
 

I like Greg's input, great problem skills Sir! The puller I have is more or less just a threaded shaft (more like a sholder bolt) that fits this particular pump style. It has other arbors for different pumps. I believe I go it at Advance Auto? I also found that I had to use an impact gun and just quickly "hammer"it off.
 
You could very well be correct. Maybe I'm screwing this up by not using the right one.
Here is a picture of the tool. Honestly I have been using the GM pulley part of the tool (#4 and #5 bushing). Should I be using the ford remover?
I've attached 2 photos of the tool. Yes the end is dome shaped so that makes sense why it is tearing up the front of the shaft on the one.

The one that is really torn up is from using the HF tool. The bushing sleeve was very thin and flexed just enough to slip. The one that has just a few marks on it is the tool in the pictures.


I do see threads in the shaft of the pump.....

I guess the main question is now.....I thought these "canned ham" Saginaw pumps were considered GM. Have I been using the wrong puller parts all along? I agree. Map gas shouldn't be needed. But desperate times call for desperate measures.

I appreciate all the input and insight. Maybe me and the pulley will go round 3 tonight... So far.... I've lost the 1st and 2nd already.
Let me know what your thoughts.... Im sure I probably used the wrong puller part.
Thanks again,
Anthony.

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Now you got me wondering? I'll take a look at mine later today, I think I have the Power Built set you have pictured. I've used it twice without problem like your describing. Are you turn it by hand or impact wrench?
 

I like Greg's input, great problem skills Sir! The puller I have is more or less just a threaded shaft (more like a sholder bolt) that fits this particular pump style. It has other arbors for different pumps. I believe I go it at Advance Auto? I also found that I had to use an impact gun and just quickly "hammer"it off.
No , thank you sir. I guess at that time of the morning ( rushing to leave for work ) this is proof I eat , sleep , wake and live for jeeps! Lol
 
Now you got me wondering? I'll take a look at mine later today, I think I have the Power Built set you have pictured. I've used it twice without problem like your describing. Are you turn it by hand or impact wrench?
that looks like a pretty slick set . As long as it's got the right thread ('you know how that goes ) , it looks like its complete to remove and install . Nice ! Never used too many power built tools , but the few pieces I have seem to have worked alright. Will be awaiting the results . Thank you sir !
 
I've been doing it all by hand... Well... I started with extra long wrenches for leverage. My last attempt was using a long wrench and a 18" long breaker bar.

I haven't tried the impact route yet. I figured the impact gun would really chew things up in a hurry. I'm doing a good job of messing it up without air tools.

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I've been doing it all by hand... Well... I started with extra long wrenches for leverage. My last attempt was using a long wrench and a 18" long breaker bar.

I haven't tried the impact route yet. I figured the impact gun would really chew things up in a hurry. I'm doing a good job of messing it up without air tools.

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at this point I can appreciate your fear of try an impact wrench due to the minor carnage committed already . Normally , an impact applies the "hits" needed to shock the part loose but since the hub surface is somewhat damaged , I agree that the hub won't support the pressure the impact will deliver . There should be some surface left that will allow the cup of the removal tool to grip so on your next attempt make certain to take advantage of this . I'm sure the kit will have a forcing screw that you'll find adequate to make your best attempt. Just remember that the trick will be to reach down the hole in the shaft to push against the bottom of the shaft , not the top. I have to admit , it is not typical with the leverage and muscle you've applied thus far to not get results. It does happen due to corrosion that a hub can get stuck. Harmonic balancers have the same problem sometimes. But the pin on the end of the screw which threads through the cup will apply pressure on the bottom of the shaft so as not to spread the top,of the shaft thus making it difficult for the pulley to come off. Hope this helps.
 
Sorry if I am getting repetitive but I wish to add something. When you give it another go , make certain to get the puller cup on the best surface the hub has left and thread the forcing screw with the pin end tight but not too forceful. Smack the end of the forcing screw with a hammer like its a chisel to shock the pulley and check the tightness of the forcing screw . Repeat until the pulley gives. Continue to lube with pb blaster as well. The pulley may "pop" when it breaks free so,continue to lube as you turn the forcing screw. Hope this helps too.
 
Well..... As they say in "revenge of the nerds" ........ We have bush.....

After monkeying around with the puller tool , I took everyone's advice. Used the pin section instead of the dome shaped end. I once I got it snug, I have it a half turn and gave it a slap with a hammer as suggested. I gave it a second turn and I heard a loud "ping". I thought I snapped the tool. It took me a few additional tries, but finally it came off.
Not sure I can eve use the pulley anymore after all the sin I put it through. Maybe a file and some careful grinding with a dremel will make it useable.
I still have another one to take off... So now I have a better understanding.

I want to thank everyone for their input and insight. Very much appreciated and sorry to go on and on about something that should have been simple. But thanks again..... I was close to walking away from it.

Anthony.

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The popping sound is a good sound ( usually) . It lets you know that the piece you wish to remove has given up its fight and let go. You won ! As long as the pulley is not bent which I don't think you did , some dressing up of the hub as you mentioned is worth a try. I never like to question anyone's ability but hey , at least some knowledge was gained here. Who knows , your next venture may be u-joints which will entail much the same trials and tribulations upon removal. Best of luck and looking forward to the pics of the finished product.
P.S.- sometimes we should not feel bad about much to do about nothing ( I think that's the saying) when there is knowledge to be gained. Sometimes it is surprising how much and how many folks have to learn . Your thread has taught someone who did not know. :beer:
 
The popping sound is a good sound ( usually) . It lets you know that the piece you wish to remove has given up its fight and let go. You won ! As long as the pulley is not bent which I don't think you did , some dressing up of the hub as you mentioned is worth a try. I never like to question anyone's ability but hey , at least some knowledge was gained here. Who knows , your next venture may be u-joints which will entail much the same trials and tribulations upon removal. Best of luck and looking forward to the pics of the finished product.
P.S.- sometimes we should not feel bad about much to do about nothing ( I think that's the saying) when there is knowledge to be gained. Sometimes it is surprising how much and how many folks have to learn . Your thread has taught someone who did not know. :beer:

:agree:
 
I think you need to set it up in a proper press. It was probably factory fitted and heat shrunk on. A proper press with pressure applied and then heat only to the pully. You will find it will come off
 
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