Clutch problem
- Thread starter chris61
- Start date
greg92jeepxj
Official Supporter
This will depend on what the pressure plate's manufacturer recommends of course like if it's the traditional diaphragm type which commonly use the short throw out bearing and matching fork . Got a question , does the bell housing have an adjustable pivot ball stud ? I know stock ones do but don't know if your using stock. That adjustment can help achieve more pedal effort but you can't go overboard as the fork's contact surface to the throw out bearing changes . The pressure plate , release bearing and fork combo can only be set to achieve so much leverage before being out of reach and the fork possibly slipping off the bearing. Care must be taken with the ball stud adjustment. I experimented with this with a couple different pressure plates on a 396 and a t-16 Warner 3 speed. Got tedious. Heavy too. I recommend using a pilot tool in place of the transmission. I want to urge you to contact a manufacturer for advice on what parts to use before experimenting as hoisting a trans/t-case isn't fun as you know.
Im also hoping another member can share a successful parts combo as your asking for as well.
Im also hoping another member can share a successful parts combo as your asking for as well.
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PoliceMonkey161
New member
Whoever told you to try a new pivot bearing and/or clutch fork is going under the assumption that your clutch travel is binding and will not travel the full lenght of the stroke. If you competely remove the linkage from the fork, do you gain any travel (moves towards the rear or front of the truck)? If so, it's a linkage adjustment/lenght issue. If not then (like Greg is getting at, I believe) then that would be an internal clearance issue.Did the Jeep always have this combo of engine and trans? Or is this recent a swap? You may be missing something like a shim between the block and bellhousing.
greg92jeepxj
Official Supporter
Want to thank 69jeepcj and PoliceMonkey161 for their experience to helping chris61. Sorry that I neglected to add as was posted to check the existing travel of the current clutch linkage. I find it uncommon that the currently installed clutch fork and release bearing cannot completely disengage the pressure plate , so yes , that would prompt to check pedal,rod adjustment ( if any ) and linkage rod from bell crank to clutch fork. If all means of linkage adjustment is exhausted , that leaves only the pivot ball stud to be adjusted . But even that adjustment is not common with stock and matching parts. I don't know if anyone has had an experience other than this.
chris61
New member
Thank you all for the information. It is a recent swap and runs but doesn't drive yet. The engine and bellhousing fit together but the seller did not know an approximate year the housing was except that it was for an old chevy small block. The engine is from a '76 chevy truck (350). I will try checking for play forward or backward without the linkage first to troubleshoot your suggestion and will post what happens. Thanks again.
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69jeepcj
New member
I just finished going through this with my neighbors 67 c10 pickup, he went from a auto to manual shift trans. when you take off the clutch linkage there shouldn't be any play forward or back. I assumed you had adjusted the clutch, what type of clutch linkage are you using factory cable, or later mechanical linkage. Do you know if whoever did the swap matched the clutch with the flywheel, meaning their are two flywheels, a 168 tooth and 153 tooth? I don't know what would happen if you got it wrong, but when we ordered the neighbors clutch, flywheel tooth count was advertised with the kit. If its not a linkage or cable adjustment, that leaves wrong clutch kit, wrong throw out (which should have come in the kit) or wrong fork.
greg92jeepxj
Official Supporter
This could be a very interesting problem indeed if parts are mismatched. Flywheel , pressure plate and throw out bearing ( release bearing ) distance rearward measurement are a contributing factor in any setup. I don't know if flywheels come in different thickness but a more thicker flywheel will in effect have the pressure plate protruding rearward more than a thinner one. This in effect would cause the pressure plate fingers depending on lever style ( straight or bent finger ) to position the releasing bearing more rearward causing the fork on its pivot to be in a more forward position of ball stud is adjusted more forward . This has an extreme effect on the linkages and it's travel. BTW , as suggested , pictures of the setup will be helpful as we are curious if the bell crank is mounted on the bell housing or the block. This effects leverage and travel adjustment. I do not know by design where a bell crank will be mounted in a small block install in a cj5 body , 69jeepcj and policemonkey161 will know better. My point is what ever the mounting , it is my hopes the correct fork was installed so free play travel as 69jeepcj posted so there is minimal to no free play travel so that bearing begins to release pressure plate as soon as clutch pedal is depressed. If linkage travel is wasted in excess free play , certainly there wouldn't be enough travel,for full release. If the wrong fork is used , straight where a curved fork is needed , and bell crank is mounted further forward , then I believe the right fork should be the curved ( forward) fork so travel is minimal. Pictures and travel measurement will tell.
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