Shifting gears noise and slow start

[Saltydog13]

When shifting either up or down in low gears, there is 'clinking' sound when new gear engaged and you can feel it. Don't notice between 3rd and 4th, but do for 1-2-3. Still plenty of power but just making that sound.
Had new carb installed last year and now when cold start, engine cuts off. Must let warm up for about 3-4 minutes then drive. When doing first big acceleration (like crossing road) all but lose power, it bucks and spurts and then revs and moves then no more issues. Does carb need tuning/re-working? Anything I can do. Thanks!

 

[greg92jeepxj]

The idle mixture adjustment is too lean. Use either a tachometer or vacuum gauge ( I like to use both) to find the highest vacuum and/or rpm reading. Make certain both are evenly balanced. When satisfied with adjustment , check that both mixture screws are even amount of turns out with the engine off. If the vacuum gauge or tach sweeps , even out each screw until steady. Make certain there is no miss on acceleration . That can happen if your feeding one side of engine (v8 ) or front or back cylinders on an in-line. Reset curb idle and fast idle according. Check initial timing . If problem persists , problem with accelerator pump adjustment or plunger. Sometimes the check ball in the accelerator shot circuit. Ball gets stuck and circuit runs dry temporarily.
Clicking in trans while shifting sounds like syncro hub or ring hanging up . Is the fluid level good ? Maybe time for fluid change ? Any difficulty moving the stick even slightly ? If syncro keys and springs have issues , this symtem is noticeable. I would try fluid level check and flush first.

 

[69jeepcj]

To ad to Gregs post: Does your carb have a choke and is it functional? I have a manual choke, and if I don't have it set correct (in or out too much) it will act as you describe until I push it in or out a little to correct it. Does it run fine once warmed up? without looking it up I forget what type jeep you have. When I cold start mine it always shuts right back off, and continue to until I get the choke pulled right. I have gotten pretty good with it and usually keeps running on first try. You may just need the choke adjusted

 

[69jeepcj]

Sorry no help on trans, im dealing with similar issue my self. Im popping out of 4th

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Good call 69jeepcj :agree: . Try the vacuum gauge and tach first to see if the vacuum is strong and rpm is steady before adjusting mixture. But yes , check that choke to see if it's way out of adjustment after the rebuild . A sloppy choke valve or miss adjusted linkage or thermostatic adjustment will cause idle problems mainly due to sloppy choke valve .

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Sorry no help on trans, im dealing with similar issue my self. Im popping out of 4th

Sorry to hear the M21 is given you problems . Lucky the Muncie is an easy rebuild but it still has a t-case on it to deal with so its a little more than a quick job. Sorry about that .
one thing that can be checked is the detent on the side cover that moves the shift fork and if you got room to pull it after taking off the shift linkage while the trans is still installed you might be able to see what's up with it if the tunnel isn't too close to the side cover.
Saltydog 13 might be able to get the shift tower off to inspect the top loader too . Lucky the floor covering comes off the CJ's !

 

[69jeepcj]

Yes Greg it is I did take off the cover to check the detent spring, unfortunately it was still there. I think its rebuild time, which is disappointing because I thought these trans were supposed to be boom proof. It pops out when I take my foot off the gas to slow down, so for now I just throw it in neutral.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Yes Greg it is I did take off the cover to check the detent spring, unfortunately it was still there. I think its rebuild time, which is disappointing because I thought these trans were supposed to be boom proof. It pops out when I take my foot off the gas to slow down, so for now I just throw it in neutral.

Bummer ! I guess better weather awaits when you can drop the trans/t-case for an inspection / rebuild. Yeah , the rock crusher Muncie was supposed to be bullet proof with a thicker casting case , heavier shafts , bigger sized bearings , etc. . But luckily it's still within a rebuildable state . Just sorry Murphy's law decided to drop the gavel at such a time when the job warranted is less than desirable. Bummer ! Sorry bro ! Not happy about that . At least a rebuild kit is far less expensive than posted prices of muncie's that jeg's or summit racing sells them for, thankfully.