Pulling a T176 and Dana 300

Mtpockets

New member
1980 CJ7
I can't shift my T176 into second from 1st, it just grinds. I ordered a master repair kit plus all shift forks from Morris 4x4. I had intended on pulling the trans and rebuilding it myself. I am not worried about rebuilding it but I am concerned about pulling it. Is this something a 50yr old man in decent shape should attempt? My plan: disconnect exhaust pipe support on X member/skid plate that trans is mounted on. Remove bolts on bell housing and clutch linkage. Place floor jack under X member. Remove the X member bolts and drop everything out together then disassemble on the floor. Reverse to install after build. Please advise good or bad plan?
 

I just completed a clutch replacement job which included all components from the pilot bushing to all related throw out bearing parts including pivot and spring parts on my 1973 cj5 back in May. I'm 53. If I can do it , you can do it. I dropped both shafts ( rebuilt u-joints too ) , the cross member and didn't split the bell for the trans . Why complicate and make more work , right ? I did this all with my dad's harbor freight 400 lb capacity trans scissor Jack . I even left the t-case attached. I'll admit , I needed the assistance of my 2 1/2 ton mini floor Jack ( the ones sold by Sears in the plastic case ) to steady the t-case and keep the trans at the correct angle upon removal and install. The small Jack even helped keep the scissor Jack from listing to one side . This will be very important when putting it back up . I did it alone because I work better alone unless something is too heavy . I'm not muscle bound but in decent shape and not about to quit automotive work unless I can't do it anymore. Hope to never see that day.
As far as what to remove , your list seems right . I didn't want to try leaving the cross member attached as I invisioned it getting in my way since I would be lying on my back and I move quite a bit in all directions when I work under a vehicle . Not to mention , I was concerned the cross member would interfere with the jacks. Yes , in my case , the cross member would have interfered . I think it would in yours as well. I know it is more work but it's not too many more nuts and bolts so do yourself a big favor and remove it. The skid plate drops with the center mount , don't forget it like I did upon install . Lol . I'll put it back but got much more to do to it before I worry about that . Hope this helps and serves as some kind of guide lines to plan ahead as you are doing . Wish I had a t176 but I'll just hang tough with my t14 .
P.S. - yes , my t-case is a Dana 20 , not much lighter than your 300 . Got one in my 1980 cj5 and luckily the clutch was already done before I bought it .
P.P.S. - do be careful when torquing the pressure plate bolts . Do them cross wise and in gradual steps . I snapped one once on a 396 Chevy Borg & beck . Glad your not pulling the flywheel , they're heavy ! Despite my best attempt to hold it upon taking out the last bolt , it rolled out of my hand and crushed my drop light ( the job went late) . Somehow the bulb didn't break ? It lasted the whole job . Go figure .
 
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I don't know what type of Jack you'll use to do the job , maybe yours will do easier than dads scissor Jack . However , do pull the tower off the trans and the shifter off the t-case to allow better movement under the jeep . You'll need it. You can do this all without lifting the front up but it was helpful for me to lift the front since I didn't pull the tower or t-case shift to clear the floor even after the floor access was removed . Hope this helps too. Best of luck . It may be best to lift the front since you'll have to clear the chassis to pull the trans/t-case combo out . Don't want you to have to drag them off the Jack . We've got to work smarter not harder at our age .
 
I usually use a small jack stand to support the bell housing & remover the crossmsmber/skidplate first. If I'm not doing clutch work, I disc the trans rom the bellhousing.Thatmakes the trans & xfercase easier to maneuver. The toughest part is getting it lined up to go back in.
 

Yes I have thought about the line up going back in too. No doubt that will be the most difficult part. I have found that it's always easier to tear things apart than put them back together! Time and patience is all we need and most of the time I'm a little short on both. I got a quote today for removal, rebuild and install. Not as much as thought it would be, I'm gonna have to think about it over the weekend.
 
There is no doubt that the toughest part would be getting the input shaft to go through the throw out bearing and into the pilot bushing as in any install but I was able to perfectly align the bell housing even with the block and after rotating the companion flange to spin the input shaft it just met the clutch disc and pilot bushing perfectly . The engine stayed in place so setting the scissor Jack was easy and just had to raise it as I pushed toward the engine. Because I left the bel housing bolted to the trans , it actually made it easier I thought to see th input shaft mating with the clutch hub and since the bell housing surface was even top and bottom , left and right , the trans came together right. I feel that it's best to leave the bell housing bolted to the trans since the clutch fork , throw out bearing , pivot ball and spring all stay together so no fear of the input shaft moving the throw out bearing out of place . I think it's the way to go. I realize that your plan is only a teams rebuild but reinstallation will be the equivalent of a clutch replacement . Hey , as long as the trans is out , can't hurt to check the clutch disc , pressure plate and flywheel surfaces too? A pilot shaft tool is a must. I posted a company that sells them on our forum but Morris 4x4 has them too. Be sure to get the right one for the proper size clutch hub AND pilot bushing . The tool MUST fit right or the job won't go well. You'll want to avoid any misalignment issues at all cost.
 

Thanks for the info Guys. This is all good stuff and discussions with people who have already done projects you are about to take on is always beneficial. Everything in this jeep is new. I screwed up royally!! Man that hurt! I bought this jeep a couple of years ago and did a frame up restore (My First). I took the PO at his word when he told me the transmission was in good shape. This was a 70 year old guy who came off very likeable and gained my trust while talking to him about the jeep. The jeep didn't run when I got it, but shifted through all the gears with no problems the day I looked at it and with the new engine running. Once I was able to take it for a spin I realized my mistake and what a mistake it was. It could win a blue ribbon for appearance (which it won't), but if it won't roll down the road then it's quite useless, right? Well that's where I'm at, but I'll eventually get there. I still have few lose ends to tie up then tackle the transmission.
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Thanks for the pics ! Real sweet ride ! I totally appreciate anyone who puts this much pride into restoring a CJ . I still feel and always will that the CJ must be preserved . Without it , the off road life style would not have gotten to where it is today . Sorry about the trans snafu but you know the t176 is a reputable trans and well worth a rebuild . Looking forward to hearing about its completion when you can and I know you'll be anxious to drive this beauty too ! Best of luck !
 
Don't beat yourself up over missing a problem or two....that is an awesome looking CJ. Soon you'll be enjoying driving it, and in the meantime remember, Jeep work is good work!! Enjoy the garage time!
 

greg92jeepxj I found a transmission jack to borrow from a guy. I have a floor jack as well as a couple of hydraulic bottle jacks and access to 3 ton overhead crane. I think I am going to do this thing like you mentioned in your previous post, by separating the transmission from the bell housing. Can you tell me if there is anything in particular that I need to be pay special attention to that may cause me problems during removal and install?
 
Be sure to support the back end of the engine when you pull the skid plate. One of the bottle jacks should work well for that.
 
Agree that proper support of the engine is essential . I had two floor jacks and the scissor Jack all working together . Sorry I didn't mention that in any of my posts . Not cool to allow the engine to hang from its mounts . Try to get the engine to get close to the firewall since you'll need the angle when pulling the trans off . If I failed to make it clear , I left the bell housing bolt d to the trans and the t-case bolted on as well. It actually worked in my favor . It's entirely possible to mate a trans to a bell housing and successfully engage the clutch hub and line up the input shaft straight into the pilot bushing but I felt that if the bell housing stayed on the trans , there would not be any concern of the throw out bearing and related parts accidentally knocked out of place causing delays and possibly disassembly to correct . Stabbing the input shaft through the clutch hub and into the pilot bushing was practically foolproof as long as the bell housing mated properly with the engine block facing. You want the dowel pins to align and the bell and block facing to be even in terms of space top and bottom , left and right so as the bell is drawn closer to the block , the input shaft will go straight through the clutch hub and into the pilot bushing . As previously posted , it is VERY important to to make certain to obtain the correct clutch pilot tool . The tool MUST fit snug through the clutch hub AND the pilot bushing so that the trans input shaft will fit perfectly. This juggling act of a trans/t-case is a one shot deal. Get it right the first time is your goal . Do not be intimidated , just think it through and I know you can get 'er done. Just think , installation is the reverse of removal . How it sits when bolted together before the removal is how you want to get it back on. The only thing that tests you is the t-case listing to one side . That throws off the bell alignment with the block. That is why I needed a small floor Jack to help out . It was important to me. Hoping you got your hands on a better trans Jack than I had , the harbor freight is perfectly issuable for this job but cannot compensate for the t-case listing . I really hope my explanation helps as I'm trying not to confuse . It's easy for me to explain but I hope I can in a way your able to relate . Never doubting anyone's ability but hoping my explanation makes sense as I word it ? I really feel the bell housing should stay bolted to the trans . It's a little hard working close to the jeeps floor and firewall but perfectly doable. Whatever you do , don't let anyone tell you to keep the clutch linkage connected for the purpose of pressing the clutch pedal to help input shaft alignment through clutch hub and pilot bushing . Maybe the 4-speed box isn't so heavy but with a t-case on it , it's heavy enough . No margin for error . If the clutch disc isn't aligned right , the input shaft won't find the pilot bushing. TLCJ5 and myself do believe you should really inspect the clutch disc , pressure and flywheel at this time . This is a job you want to do once and get it all done right , once . On,y when a clutch is worn and ready for replacement do you want to be on your back again. It's like front end work , it's a dirty thankless job but once done , you can smile . Again , no reason to be intimidated , just think it through , it really isn't hard to do other than all the nuts and bolts . Take it slow , I know you can do it. And yes , jeep work is good work . That kept me going through the job when I did it. Thanks TLCJ5 ! There is nothing more gratifying than the bell housing mating flush against the block and the bolts going into place . The only resistance may be from the dowel pins into the bell housing on removal and rasembly . Try to clean the dowelson the block and the dowel holes on the bell to help out. They are meant to install tight but not a tight tolerance press fit.
 

BTW , the dowel pin are not pins like you would find on a small block chevy for example . They are round , hollow spacers pressed ( recessed) into the engine block where two of the bolts that bolt up the bell to the block are . I had to use a pry bar ( not a wrecking bar) to lever the bell off the block . The dowels can get stuck due to corrosion . This may persuade you to just pull the trans off the bell . If you must to save time since the bell will be separated for the trans rebuild anyway , by all means . But I really believe that upon reassembly the bell be bolted on the trans. The sharp edge of the pry bar served me well to liberate the bell from the block. Do use restraint , it's only aluminum . Work alternately for one side to the other. You'll get it . I hope your working conditions are better than mine. I hit a not so smooth drive pad and not so much room . Hope this goes really well for you .
seems I'm always forgetting something . Comes with age . Lol. It seems someone did a half baked clutch job before I got my hands on this jeep. Apparently , the pilot bushing wasn't properly driven into the crank recess . I'm thinking the joker started the pilot bushing into the crank and finished it with trans . That's a no no ! Verboten ! Never use bolts to force ANYTHING into place . The pilot bushing MUT be pressed in properly . I've got a puller but not an installer. I use the ole faithful block of wood and ball peen hammer. Hard to start bushing bit it will go. My trans input shaft was actually stuck in the pilot bushing . Depressing the clutch pedal did not release the clutch . The engine just spun the input shaft as one . Sad but true. All better now. But it's important to properly install the bushing much less all components. A lot of food for thought but fore warned is fore armed.
 
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I wanted give an update on my progress. I pulled the transmission Thursday. You all were right it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought. Although the three bolts on top of the bell housing were very hard to get too. They will be a bear to get started and torqued on the installation. Thanks for all the input. I have the transmission on the work bench with the main shaft ready to go back in. I also installed all new shift forks. I'm waiting on a reverse gear to be delivered. It's supposed to be in Monday. I can then complete the rebuild and get it ready to reinstall.

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Thanks for the update . Great to hear the job has been going well. Nothing to fear upon reinstallation , you've got the experience . Every job always has it's easy and tough moments . Looking forward to a great running jeep soon , just as you are . Hey , how is the clutch assembly ? I did mine even though I didn't plan on spending the money just then but no one likes doing the same job over unless it's necessary . But it's a jeep and eventually a clutch replacement will be necessary someday. At least you've got the job down experience wise . One bolt at a time , be safe .
 

I put a new clutch in it with the new engine. I should have rebuilt the transmission after I finished the frame, but the PO had told me he already had the transmission rebuilt. My mistake, I took him at his word.

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Hey guys thanks for all your help! I have completed the T176 rebuild and installation. Installing the master rebuild kit was actually quite easy, but the right tools are a necessity. I was able to use several of your suggestions and the job went nicely. I test drove this afternoon it shifted through all gears perfectly. Thanks again!
 
That is great to hear ! Glad we were able to offer advice that was helpful to the repair and ever happier your able to drive the jeep once again after the initial purchase and restoration . Sorry that the PO wasn't forthcoming but at least you've got a jeep that is now dependable . The greatest thing is you built or actually rebuilt it with your own two hands . That is a feeling and accomplishment not just anyone can say. Be proud , we are for you . Thanks for sharing with us . Your posts will always be welcome. A veteran CJ builder is always a credit to the forum !
 

Great to hear she's up & runnin'!!! Isn't it nice to feel that added confidence after completing a job that you were afraid would be a nightmare? That's why "Jeep work is good work!"
Enjoy your beautiful CJ!
 
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