00 Cherokee hesitation

[Dylan Garlitz]

Hey guys I got a 2000 jeep Cherokee. A couple weeks ago she broke down on me and I got a code saying it was my crank sensor. Before it died on me it started to hesitate and kick back a little while I drove, then it broke down and would stay running for about 10 minutes. I replaced the crank sensor and the camshaft sensor because my mechanic recommended replacing that one as well. Well all was good and it was driving fine after he replaced them for me but a day later it started to hesitate again, it hasn’t stalled since I got the new sensors on, I’m just stuck on what else it could be because the engine light isn’t coming on? I was thinking about my fuel filter or fuel pump going out but I’m no expert. Any advice would help!

 

[JPNinPA]

Did they use OEM sensors?
What was the code P0xxx?

Is the hesitation when accelerating or holding speed?
If accelerating, is it at a certain pedal position or after a certain speed you don’t accelerate as much and the engine start to stumble ?

Does it idle normal?
What rpm do you idle at?


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[Dylan Garlitz]

It’s hesitating and bucking at both acceleration and holding speed. It seems to do it when it’s holding speed in between 1000 and 2000 rpms. I got it back from my shop a couple days ago when they said they couldn’t feel the hesitation, got in and started her up and the engine light was on and it was an o2 sensor. Got that replaced and it’s still doing the same thing. Then the shop said it was my ignition coil, they replaced that and it’s still doing it so I’m completely stuck. I idle at about 800rpm and it’ll bounce and and jerk every now and then. It seems to like to hesitate when it warms up. Sorry for the late response! And they called me today wondering if the camshaft and crank position sensor were factory parts that I replaced and I said no.. they’re actually two different parts from each other. One prenco and one WSO. Could that be the issue?

 

[Pear]

Just curious if it could be a miss. When's the last time the plugs were changed? Also, plug wires have around 100,000 mile life span (typically).

You could pull the plugs to inspect. Also check the gap. If the plugs are burnt, corroded or grey looking then they should be changed.

If it's only one plug that's dirtier than all the others, then you could do a valve adjustment for that cylinder (a pain to get to, plan a full afternoon, but doable). If valve adjustment doesn't work, after all of the above then it may be a piston ring (a horrible pain in the ass).

Cylinders not firing well can cause a miss and has similar symptoms to what your describing.

Replacing the plugs and checking the gap are the first steps, then plug wires. Sea foam is often used in conjunction.

A shop should be able to tell right away if there's a miss and on what cylinder - but not all shops are honest.

Easiest thing to try, cheapest, and a normal part of a tune up (if you know the vehicles history, and know it hasn't been done in a while).

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[JPNinPA]

Were the sensors OEM?

What was the O2 code?

Have you checked the fuel pressure?

Check that the TPS and IAC are connected properly?


Agree with checking plugs and wires. They would likely will be bad at idle too. Maybe not as noticeable.

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[JPNinPA]

Read through again and yes non OEM sensors and O2s have resulted in issues. Some bad right out if the box.
Did the crank sensor have a paper gasket on the tip when inserted into the bell-housing? It is a spacer and without it the crank sensor will get damaged.


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