gas gauge

jeep90

New member
can you cut a bumpstop for more flex?

instead of using a rubber hose and stickin it in the gas tank, or watching the odometer and guessing if im low on gas. what is the deal with these jeep gas gauges and how do you fix them?
:?:
 

looks like you just have to watch the odometer just like me. Sucks huh? You would think that jeep could have fixed that simple little problem, but they left all of that up to us.
 

i just seen on the offroad.com website on the jeep tech section a how-to on fixing your gas gauge. didnt really read the whole thing but i will look into it tomorrow.
 

Ah the age old gas gauge question. You can make it work but it is expencive and timely to do so. There are several good wright ups out there and from all I see "Not Worth It" Do the gas tank enlargement deal to a 20 gal tank and just watch the odometer. Tug
 
there are actually several things that could be causing the gauge to not work... it can be an electrical connection, it could be a bad sending unit, it can be a warped plastic plate in the tank, or it can be the gauge itself... if you DO feel you need it fixed... start with checking the connections behind the dash, where the gauge plugs in... it is the best place to start
 
Remove the center dash overlay and remove the gauge cluster. You'll see a flat circuit board on the back of the gauge cluster, remove it and clean the two contacts that power the gas gauge. This helped steady the gauge on my '88 YJ.
 
i have no experience with this, since my gas gauge works, but a fella i know who has restored many jeeps warned me about the gas gauges. he said that the gauge sending unit inside the tank can be pulled out and sanded to remove the rust and that will fix most gauges. he said that there is a resistor and slide inside the tank and that the resistor will rust and cause the slide that is connected to the float to make a bad connection and not work. that is where i'd start looking.
 
I put in digital gauges. They work great. If you have the money. I would recommend it. If you don't have the money like I did just do one gauge at a time.
 
check the ground back there, if its steady at full, means there is plenty of voltage, enough to overcome the bad ground, but as fuel level drops, voltage does, and the needle on the guage does as well, reflecting how much gas you have. The lesser voltage makes the ground issue more of a problem, and as you get closer to empty the guage really goes bouncy -reguardless of terrain or movment. Unfortunatly, you could have the same issue at the ground, in 2 places, outside the tank, and inside the tank on the slider, the full section is at the top, less prone to rust, as the bottom is most prone to rust etc. due to its constant submersion.
obviously check all the exterior connexions, clean with wire brush, put that anti rust goop on afterward or vaseline.. anyway track it down like any problem. But like the others say, wouldnt mess with the inside of the tank unless you feel its that big of a problem.

Iis a huge painin the ass, you have to drain it, remove it, and at that point maybe it will be time for new, bigger, better tank...

next thing you know youve dumped a week and 500 bucks into a guage that bounced around.
 
2x what year model and engine. There are some certain issues that are year specific.
 
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