RE 4" Lift Install and questions

jfrabat

jfrabat

New member
Hey, guys...

Well, just to report that I got started today on my RE 4" lift. Since I have no help (it's all me, myself and I!), I only got the front done today. I still have to install the swaybar disconnects, extend the brake lines, install the dropped Pitman arm, and torque up the trackbar relocation bracket, but I got a couple of questions:

1. My swaybar is kind of rusted up. It seems to be the surface only, but the paint is peeling away. Should I replace it, or should I keep it as it is?

2. I have been unable to install the swaybar discos because I cannot get the link of the sway bar (the short arm that connects the sway bar to the axle) off the sway bar. I already got it off the axle, but I have tried everything to no result... Any suggestions? By the way, the BFH (I used a rubber one so as to not damage anything), PB Blast, and using a lever to push it out, were already tried. By the way, it is the bolt that wont budge...

3. On the track bar relocating bracket, it says to use the same old screw and nut for attaching the track bar to the bracket, but the thread of the screw is not long enough to secure it safely to the bracket. Should I use some washers to thicken the section up a little?

4. The brake lines I have not attached because the extensions that came with the kit are the hard lines with the threaded connectors, but my current connectors are not threaded (they are the use once kind that are pressed with pliers or something similar).

5. The Pitman arm I did not install because I did not have the right size of socket for the torque wrench. Anyone know the size? By the way, I also need to get a cheater bar to tighten it up real nice... After all, I dont think I'll reach 180 ft/lbs with only the torque wrench...

Anyway, the Jeep looks like it's doing a wheely right now, so big is the difference from the old and the new suspension (granted, the new one is not settled in yet), so I am really happy with how everything is comming out. I'll try to post some pictured before the weekend to show you the progress so far.

Felipe
 

1. My swaybar is kind of rusted up. It seems to be the surface only, but the paint is peeling away. Should I replace it, or should I keep it as it is?

Keep it, paint it if it bothers you. It won't affect performance. I threw away my YJ's swaybar years ago.

2. I have been unable to install the swaybar discos because I cannot get the link of the sway bar (the short arm that connects the sway bar to the axle) off the sway bar. I already got it off the axle, but I have tried everything to no result... Any suggestions? By the way, the BFH (I used a rubber one so as to not damage anything), PB Blast, and using a lever to push it out, were already tried. By the way, it is the bolt that wont budge...

Remove the swaybar completely, fishing it out from over the pitman arm. It'll then be a lot easier to hammer off the endlink. That is if you should choose to reinstall the swaybar.

3. On the track bar relocating bracket, it says to use the same old screw and nut for attaching the track bar to the bracket, but the thread of the screw is not long enough to secure it safely to the bracket. Should I use some washers to thicken the section up a little?

I don't think washers would help you, I'd buy a longer bolt.

4. The brake lines I have not attached because the extensions that came with the kit are the hard lines with the threaded connectors, but my current connectors are not threaded (they are the use once kind that are pressed with pliers or something similar).

Any hardline extension should be able to go between your stock hardline and the rubber brakeline, where the rubber brakeline meets the frame. Unless I'm not understanding you correctly.

5. The Pitman arm I did not install because I did not have the right size of socket for the torque wrench. Anyone know the size? By the way, I also need to get a cheater bar to tighten it up real nice... After all, I dont think I'll reach 180 ft/lbs with only the torque wrench...

I use a pipe wrench and call it well enough.
 
I just went downstairs and took some pics... I forgot, however, to take one of the actual Jeep, so sorry about that!

Anyway, in this shot, you can see the new spring and U bolts, and you can also see what I mentioned about the brake lines, which brings me up to a new question: should i use the supplied brake lines INSTEAD of the ones on the Jeep, or should I ADD them to the ones in the Jeep? You can also see that the sway bar link is disconnected from the axle, but still conencted to the Sway Bar. I intend to keep the sway bar, but use the provided discos, as I currently am using the jeep almost exclusively as a daily driver, so I want to keep the stability of the sway bar. So I will follow bounty's suggestion and take the whole sway bar off and then try to take out the links from there (I actually started it, but one bult is HARD to reach, so I could not finish getting it out).

DSC09868-1.jpg


Here's the other side (same situation with the sway bar).

DSC09870-1.jpg


Here's what I mentioned about the track bar... This one I was thinking that it may better just to extend the thread (with one of those things to make threads, I dont know what they are called!) and tighten everything up nice and tight (according to my manuals, it should be tightened to something like 130 ft/lbs or 145... somewhere in that range!).

DSC09871-1.jpg


And another shot of the brake line.

DSC09875-1.jpg


On Saturday I plan to do the rear springs and finish the issues pending with the front springs, and then the SYE and shaft on Sunday. Anyway, I am happy with how this is comming out.

Felipe
 
Felipe, the brake line extensions don't go at the bottom, they go up higher where the rubber line meets the hard line that comes from the frame. If you follow the brake line up you should find a threaded connection from the hard line to the soft line. They go b/w that.
 

The upper bolt on the swaybar endlink is a taper fit, similar to a tierod end. Once you get the swaybar out completely, hit the side of the swaybar with a large hammer next to where the endlink stud goes through the swaybar. This will temporarily egg-shape the hole and help break free the corrosion at the taper fit.
 
currupt4130 said:
Felipe, the brake line extensions don't go at the bottom, they go up higher where the rubber line meets the hard line that comes from the frame. If you follow the brake line up you should find a threaded connection from the hard line to the soft line. They go b/w that.
Click to expand...

OK, now it makes more sense! I'll get to that first thing on Saturday.

Bounty__Hunter said:
The upper bolt on the swaybar endlink is a taper fit, similar to a tierod end. Once you get the swaybar out completely, hit the side of the swaybar with a large hammer next to where the endlink stud goes through the swaybar. This will temporarily egg-shape the hole and help break free the corrosion at the taper fit.
Click to expand...

I have not yet tried heat either. But once I get out the sway bar, I'll try that along with your recommendation...

Thanks, guys!

Felipe
 
Sway Bar-
When I did my lift kit, I used an Oxy-Acetalyene torch to heat the sway bar bolts that you're having trouble with. Keep in mind, you'll burn up the bushings which produce toxic gases, have plenty of fresh-air ventilation. Safety goggles and a squirt bottle of water come in handy, too. Heat it up enough and you should be able to strike the bolt a few times with a 3-pound sledge hammer. If you plan to re-use the bolt, be careful not to damage the threads!!! You may also want to try a tie-rod remover to get those tapered bolts out... I got one from AutoZone for about $14.

Track Bar Bracket-
I had to buy a shorter bolt (3.5" long x 1/2" diameter) and corresponding nut and washers for my track bar to be snug up against the bracket. A Grade 5 bolt will probably work, but I chose a Grade 8 bolt for my setup.

Good luck! 8)
 

Just an update on the progress...

Today, the rear suspension was installed, and the links were removed from the sway bar by means of heat (propane torch), and a BFH. Unfortunately, the threads WERE damaged (dandoc, I guess I did not pay enough attention to your post! :redface:), so although the sway bar is back in place, and the quick disconects are "placed" where they should go, I will have to remove the quick discos until I get new bolts...

Regarding the brakes, my lines seem to be in such bad shape that they are not coming lose (I could not get a SINGLE line to come lose, neither the front nor the rear! They look corroded, not oxydized, but kind of galvanized, if that makes any sense at all... :? I guess it's because it is brass). So I left all the original lines; but I do want them changed. Any suggestions? I think I damaged a couple of the conectors trying to get them out...

Tomorrow I will install the dropped Pitman arm, and the SYE kit and new shaft. I wanted to do the Pitman yesterday, but I dont have the right socket size. I thought it was 1.25", but neither the 1 1/4 nor the 32mm fit it. I guess I'll try the 1 1/2 tomorrow (I'll exchange the 32mm I got today for the 1 1/2). Anyone know the correct size?

Hopefully I will have enough time to test drive the Jeep tomorrow. By the way, it looks TALL!!! I guess I was expecting 4" higher than what I had, but my springs were so bad that I actually got about 6" or 7" of lift!

My wife is now saying that the only reason I got the lift is so that she cannot go ride with me! :purple: I had to promise her that I would take one of those steps we have for the house when she came along :lol: (she's pregnant, by the way).

Anyway, I'll get you guys some pictures tomorrow...

Felipe
 
jfrabat said:
Regarding the brakes, my lines seem to be in such bad shape that they are not coming lose (I could not get a SINGLE line to come lose, neither the front nor the rear! They look corroded, not oxydized, but kind of galvanized, if that makes any sense at all... :? I guess it's because it is brass). So I left all the original lines; but I do want them changed. Any suggestions? I think I damaged a couple of the conectors trying to get them out...
Click to expand...

You could do what I did and replace ALL of the hard brake lines :purple: I had a similar problem with the front soft lines not coming loose. I tried PB Blaster with no avail. Finally I simply tore the hard line, knowing that it would be replaced... you may or may not want to go that route. Either way, invest in some flange nut wrenches of varying sizes (both SAE and metric). They will protect the brake line connectors and keep the corners from becoming rounded off.

jfrabat said:
Hopefully I will have enough time to test drive the Jeep tomorrow. By the way, it looks TALL!!! I guess I was expecting 4" higher than what I had, but my springs were so bad that I actually got about 6" or 7" of lift!
Click to expand...

I noticed a similar situation with my 2.5" RE lift kit. My old springs were bad and sagging. Go wheeling a few times and they'll lose some of their height as they go through the break in period (that's what I hear, at least).
 
You may have to replace the brake lines, but in the meantime you can disconnect the point at which the lines were attached inside the wheel well. Then you can pull slack from the brake line to relocate the point of attachment lower allowing more slack for the increased ride height. You'll have to work the slack from the flexible part of the brake lines above the frame under the hood. This is what some of the 3.5" kits suggest, and they include a couple pieces of hardware and call it a "brakeline relocation kit". That's a joke as all you need to do is move the bracket ;)

I wouldn't go flexing out the suspension until you put the longer lines in but this should suffice for on the road use. Make sure you have enough slack before hitting the road. You don't need to pop a brake line while driving :shock:

I just cut those bolts for the swaybar with a really good sawsall. After 20 minutes of trying to heat and loosen them I got tired of it.

As for your trackbar bracket, apparently the bolt is a "shoulder bolt" which isn't threaded all the way. Assuming it is grade 8 (or maybe 5) hardware it may be hard to thread further. I'd be fine with using washers, but you shoud be ablet to buy a replacement bolt (I too suggest grade 8 ) for next to nothing at your local Lowes, Home Deopt, or a general hardware store.
 

OK, more update... I took the transfer case apart, but it seems I have been beaten by a snap ring!!! Can anyone recommend any good snap ring pliers? I was looking at these:

http://www.fullcirclepadding.com/index.cfm?event=ProductDetail&ProductID=562

I am leaving tomorrow on a business trip, so I'll continue the build-up on Saturday, but I do want to order those snap ring pliers before I leave Monday afternoon so that they arrive by Friday.

Other than that, you guys were right; it is not that complicated to install the SYE, and also that the snap ring would be HARD to get out! But one thing I did not see where it went (it fell off when I was opening the TC) was the magnet; where does that go?

Felipe
 
Last edited:

They aren't going to work any better than what you have now Felipe. If you get clever you can get the snap rings off with two screw drivers.
 
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