1984 Cherokee clutch problem

[TorqueWinsRaces]

My friend just replaced the clutch in his Cherokee and it won't disengage. We've been trying to bleed it, and it seems ok (maybe a little light, but I don't know this vehicle). It just doesn't disengage when the engine is running. Any ideas? Bad slave cyl? he's out there taking the transmission out for the 3rd time...this is not his first clutch job, fyi... I want to see if the clutch disc was installed backwards, I just don't know...I've done a bunch 'o clutches in my time as well...but, then again, I have not done any of the work on this one, I've just helped with the bleeding...and letting him use my tools ;-)

Oh, the first time he took the transmission back out, he said he thought maybe the release lever wasn't on the throwout bearing correctly, but when he put it all back together it did the same thing. Hence, he's taking it back out now.

Is there a trick to bleeding this thing? We are doing it like you would do brakes.

Thanks for any help!

Edit- He thinks he found the problem. There is a ball bearing, or something like that, on the "other" side of the throwout bearing that the fork sits on, the bearing was sitting below where it supposed to be...sorry, I didn't crawl under and look, just relaying the description as best as I can. Anyway, he's putting it back together now.

 

[SteelHeadz]

The fork not sitting in the pivot hole would make a difference. I just dont see why you need to bleed it unless you disconnected the hydraulic line from the slave to the master.

 

[carnuck]

If the seal in the master died, it wouldn't build pressure. If you pushed the slave plunger back, the crud could jam the seal in the master so pressure can't build up. I use a bicycle pump on an old master cyl lid to pressurize the system, but you can also use a vacuum pump to draw fluid and air down at the slave.
Check to make sure the clutch pedal arm isn't bent off center as that will push "sideways" on the master, which will cock the seal and keep pressure from building up.