another timing or missmatch problem jeep tj

[JPNinPA]

agree^^ Did you do the pedal to the floor start? I realize you changed injectors but there is more than just injectors them self that could cause a flooded cylinder. Open connection or bad ground will leave an injector open.

For the most part I will give the free and easy to complete tests first. If you don't do them, don't report back what the results are or worst yet change a bunch of stuff. It makes it difficult to help with the next steps.
Why changing stuff is bad??? It may introduce more issues by accident, then there are two or more causes. For example, aftermarket TPS, cps or CKP fail out of the box. Add one of these on top of a timing issue its almost impossible to understand what is wrong.

 

[Joshua Faas]

I will try that step now since I totally missed it...im sorry. did not mean to annoy you. then the compression check if I can find the tool for it.

 

[JPNinPA]

I will try that step now since I totally missed it...im sorry. did not mean to annoy you. then the compression check if I can find the tool for it.

If you have an OReilly's or AZ Near you you could borrow the tools. They charge you and reimburse you when you return it.

Not angry or annoyed. I just want to be clear we want to help. We need to know what was done and what was the result. It may seem odd at times with some of the questions we ask. Like where did you buy a part? But there are good reasons.

Cheers

 

[Joshua Faas]

did the WOT step and nothing. took coil pack loose and put spark plug wires from the packs to the plugs and all spark....however near as I can tell ....the sparks seem to be inconsistent. 2 and 3 seem to get extra sparks and some seem to loose spark from time to time. no compression check yet...cant find my gage...packed it away somewhere...may have to buy one.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

The inconsistencies of the coils packs may or may not raise eyebrows yet but will keep that on the back burner. Hoping you can perform a compression when you can as we would like to determine the health of the engine before committing to further diagnostics. If any valves are hanging up , this will most certainly contribute to if not be the cause of the no start/ backfire . Right now , any spark is good spark but will determine that to confirm a proper firing order is in fact occurring. That would involve a timing gun and degree tape around the harmonic balancer to confirm if cylinders are firing in the correct time . That is an extreme test which may or may not need to be performed. We don't yet know if it's an issue but from reading your post , it had our attention as not being typical. But for the moment , any spark is good spark in terms of firing on a cylinder . If you strongly feel the coils are firing out of sequence and could be the cause of your miss fire , we are holding hat thought as a strong possibility as well. You may be on to something significant . After the compression check is done , we'll keep in mind the cylinder balance / firing order test . Imagine , all this over a possible defective coil ? Hmmm........

 

[Joshua Faas]

Picking up a dial indicator and compression gage on the way home. Giong to check valve lift while i got the valve cover off as well...will post the results tonight

 

[Joshua Faas]

1:96 psi
2:96 psi
3:95 psi
4:95 psi
5:89 psi
6:89 psi

Triple checked to make sure. Also unpluged fule pump and tried starting with starting fluid. No change. What next? Hmmmm

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Regrettably , there just isn't any good way to put it ; this engine is done. Bad compression across the board means bad compression rings as you already know. Even a wet test wouldn't yield much better results. I don't know what to say about the so called low milage claim either. This engine could not have been maintained very well. I'm sure if air were leaking past the valves you'd have noticed . It's obvious the compression loss is all blowby for there to be practically even loss as this of all cylinders . No head gasket would produce an even loss such as this.
Sir , you've got to look for another engine . It would be too expensive to rebuild . To mic out the bores and find it needing like .030 over bore or something would mean new Pistons on top of the machine work . It's most likely well past honing the bores . Of course that remains to be seen but it's doubtful and the expense says it all. I just don't think it's worth tearing it down to find out . I hate telling you this after all the labor of the install but I'm sure you already know the truth.

 

[JPNinPA]

1:96 psi 2:96 psi 3:95 psi 4:95 psi 5:89 psi 6:89 psi Triple checked to make sure. Also unpluged fule pump and tried starting with starting fluid. No change. What next? Hmmmm

Are you sure you had a good seal between the gage and cylinder? You should read 150 psi.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Is it even worth asking what were the readings of the valve lift ? Just want to be sure the valves we're opening enough to get enough air into the cylinders for a good reading before condemning this engine in all fairness.

 

[Joshua Faas]

Never found the gage...not sure its worth buying at this point

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Agree , wouldn't worry about the gauge at this point either. If you would like to take one last shot at it , you can try introducing compressed air to the cylinders . The way I've done this is to use my compression gauge which has a quick disconnect on its hose that can be connected to an air chuck. Then , at TDC for each cylinder introduce air and listen for where the air escapes. Normally , air will leave the cylinder from the compression rings but if you hear air escaping from the intake or exhaust manifold then the valves are leaking. If air is heard leaking noticeably into the crankcase , then the compression rings are badly worn. A leak down tester is great for this too to measure the leak down rate but rather than invest $$ at this point I would just find a way to connect an air line to the spark plug threads . That will be helpful to determine a final decision.

 

[JPNinPA]

What about wet testing? Pour some (tbsp) engine oil into the cylinder and redo the pressure test. If compression increases its the bottom end rings... If not its the top end valves and gaskets. Do each cylinder so you know if any are different than others.

 

[Joshua Faas]

Faulty o-ring threw off readings.

155
150
135
148
145
135

The 135's are a rex flag to me...whats the minimal range?

 

[JPNinPA]

Faulty o-ring threw off readings. 155 150 135 148 145 135 The 135's are a rex flag to me...whats the minimal range?

You want to be within 10-15% of each other and not less than 100. Might try the wet test to see if it is rings or valves...

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Well that's somewhat of a relief. Good to see the readings over 100 lbs. but there is inconsistency . Since the engine wasn't running we can't ask if any of the spark plugs were more oil fouled than any other. I vote a wet test be done too. Maybe cylinder head work might do some justice to this engine if the readings get closer to that 10-15 %.

 

[JPNinPA]

You knowyoucould just have heavy carbon buildup. The buildup can be holding the valves open a bit.

 

[Joshua Faas]

You were compleetly right....threw some atf down the intake while cranking and i backfired twice then fired right up......who would have thought....should have started with that

 

[JPNinPA]

You were compleetly right....threw some atf down the intake while cranking and i backfired twice then fired right up......who would have thought....should have started with that

Well that is not exactly what I recommended. Next time after doing the compression test pour a tablespoon of oil into the cylinder through the spark plug opening. Then repeat the compression test. This way oil is only on the cylinder and not the valves.
If you poured oil down the intake there is no knowing how much made it into what cylinder and it coated both valve and cylinder. Depending on how much you put in you could have damaged the cylinder.
To clean carbon you trickle water into the intake with engine warm and running at or just above 1000 rpm. After app 1/2 cup of water stop and wait until idle recovers and shut the engine down for 15-20 min. Start it back up and take it for a ride with rpm above 3300 rpm for 2-3 min or so. This steaming of the valves breaks up carbon along with the high rpm. The high rpm allows the valves to rotate placing a different area (clean) into the carbon path. Just running your engine above 3300 rpm occasionally will help.
I hope it all works out for you going forward.