Electric Guage red lining (89 Grand Wagoneer).....

skindoggy2000

New member
Is it okay if I just keep asking stupid questions periodically?

Hope so.

Anyhoo. While I'm still dealing with my sticking rear window, I've had a problem with my electric gauge red lining at the top end. This happened once before, on a trip. But the next day I had my battery/alternator replaced, so I thought that might be that. But suddenly, it is happening again. What might this be a tale-tell sign of?

Oh, and while I'm at it. What is the motor oil of choice for Wagoneers?

I'm sorry I am so truly ignorant. But I want to learn.
 

check all of ur wires running from your alt. to battery and so on and make sure they are not freyed or anything, about the motor oil get Moble 1, it is the best(opinion) syn motor oil on the market, my uncle is a mechanic and that is all he uses in everything he owns and tells me to use it in everything i own because it is the best, but i will tell u it is the most expencive tho about 30-40 bucks a case but well worth it i think
 
what this relays are for ??

Which gauge is doing this? If you have gauges with a third signal wire, and that wire becomes disconnected (due to a loose or bad connection), the gauge will give a false reading and red line. If this is the case, track down the wires from the gauges to the senders, be sure that you have continuity and good solid connections. If you find no problems with the wiring, suspect bad sending unit or gauge.

Hope that helps :mrgreen:
-Nick
 
Okay, here's what it is doing.

Since I changed the battery/alternator, the voltmeter was REALLY constantly just above 13. No waver. Then, just suddenly yesterday, it shot up again to the top of the guage. I was on a highway, and BANG. there it went.

Along side of that, the temp guage is running, well, not HOT, but a bit hotter. Closer to 220 than I'd like. It hasnt crossed 220 yet, but it seems interested in getting close.

What is interesting to me is that both gauges come down a bit when I am not moving: and then as soon as I hit the accelerator they go back up.

I'm a poor English teacher -- I love this truck like nothing else I own, but I am also desperate to NOT pay for a mechanic if I don't have to, so all your guidance as to where to start looking is really, really appreciated. Next time you are all in Lancaster, PA, beers are on me.
 

your temp problem sounds like a thermostat one, try buying new one and see if that is your problem, makse u pay close attention to where holes are and such because i have heard where they may be a hole or two that are put into the gasket, i am mainly a wrangler person but am comming along slowly but surely on cherokee's and such, hope this helps
 
You need to do the following:

With the engine off, place a multimeter between both battery terminals. It should read 11 to 12 volts.

With the engine running, do the same. The meter should read about 14 volts.

If the voltage goes above 14 volts while the engine is running, I'd suspect a bad voltage regulator and have it replaced as soon as possible to prevent damaging your computer and electrical system.

The fact the gauges are reading higher when you accelerate indicates more power is being produced when the engine RPMs increase. This is how an alternator works BUT your voltage regulator should be limiting the output voltage to 14 volts.

-Nick :!:
 
Your voltage regulator is inside of your alternator. I agree with Nick, I suspect the regulator. I think the part is about $20.00 and a couple hours of work and you should be able to swap it out.
 

Just an update --

I spent the weekend messing around with stuff, and trying to figure out what the hell I was doing (thanks for all the advice!) but when the battery was boiling I decided to bite the bullet and take it back to the mechanic. They replaced the whole alternator and battery....for FREE. So, back on the road again.

Hopefully.

But seriously, thanks again -- you guys are great,

Now, if I can just fix two doors, an oil leak, and the power locks it'd be like brand new.......
 
PAP Nov. 7th

i had the same problem and all it was, was a bad connection for the ground wire to the frsme from the negative terminal on the battery
 
On my old Reliant, the voltage regulator failed, it was a little box on the firewall with a triangular plug going into it... The batt gauge redlined, and the battery ruptured right down the center... That was fun, talk about engine corrosion, I opened the hood, and it was a disaster zone in there.
 
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