How dangerous will this be???

[bryanjeep]

I was wondering, how dangerous will it be driving on the interstate and around town with SOA with 2.5" lift, 31's, and a 300 + hp motor? Sounds like fun huh? Well that is the way it will be for a little while until I can afford my 35" Boggers. Anybody have pics of a soa and 31's?

Now please, I am not asking for your opinions on how "weak" the stock axles are on the Yj and how much you think I shouldn't keep those axles. I have heard them all. I will eventually put the full sized ones in but meanwhile I will use the stock ones.

This brings me to another point...Are Dana 44's wider than the 35? I am looking for a good front and rear combo (mostly Dana 60 and 14 bolt) so if anybody knows what would be a good match, let me know please.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Updating personal website sponsered by Jeepz

Not necessarily dangerous, but very fun. My stock D30/35 held up fine behind a 275-300hp 350 with 33" MT's, they'll surprise you. You'll have a hard time keeping the rear driveshaft in it if you like using the power from the line.

 

[bryanjeep]

I am going to use a cv driveshaft with the JB SYE. Gonna be top heavy huh? Look like I am on stilts. My main question is about being so high and skinny with so much power.

 

[Snitty]

Are Dana 44's wider than the 35

that depends on what the 44's are from

 

[Joopin]

If your worried about tipping over swap in some wider axles in the future, or you could just go with 14.5" wide meats!

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I had the 350 with 4" of lift, stock axles and rims, and narrow 33" MT's. The YJ is a fairly stable jeep with a wider stance than it's predecessor, so have fun and stay safe.

 

[redrooster]

The amount of danger presented is directly related to how you did your SOA.
If you have the caster set properly, good shocks, traction bar, alignment, good driveshaft angle and proper steering geometry then it shouldn't be a problem.
I bet it looks funny with that much lift on those little donuts.

 

[Junkpile]

bryanjeep-- What's your engine combo(heads,cam,induction,exhaust)? Just curious, I love hearing people's engine setups.

The 3.06 first in that 700R4 will be fun.

I'm willing to bet that those axles will be fine if you watch it in low-range. One of my neighbors just put a 350/TH350 combo in his 95 YJ. He's wrinkling the sidewalls on a set of 33" BFG small terrains on full throttle launches. No problems yet. I raced and wheeled a 93 on 36" TSLs for three years with the factory rear....no real problems. Just depends on what you are doing and how well you know the limitations of your rig and it's components.

Enjoy the speed now....because after you install those porky pig axles and 58 ton transfer case that has gotten so popular, along with the 800 pounds of "bulletproof bumpers" and all the other stuff that comes along......that dude in the factory 4.0 sitting next to you at the stoplight is going to smoke your 300hp 350. If that kind of thing is important to you.

 

[bryanjeep]

My engine info is on my website, but here is some:
I bought the engine from www.rebuiltautoengines.com. It is the 4 bolt main High Performance option. (roller rockers,flat lifters, performance cam with .280 intake & .295 exhaust, double roller chain, 194 intake valve, ARP bolts, flat top pistons, computer balanced, flat lifters, Edlebrock Performer intake, Edlebrock Performer 600 electric choke, Mallory HEI, chrome pan, cover, and valve covers, ETC.

I am going to use dual exhaust with cherry bomb mufflers. The pipe from the header to muffler is only going to be a foot maybe less so it is going to be really really really loud. After the muffler willl be turndowns.

I will be very easy on the throttle until I can learn hoe to drive the new setup. I don't want to screw anything up right away :wink:

 

[Junkpile]

Those cam specs can't be correct. If it only has .280" of cam lobe then that is only .420" lift at the valve with 1.5:1 rockers, which is in no way a performance cam. Did you mean 280/295 adv.dur.? If so, then that cam will make power all the way up to 6500rpm in a 355. The performer intake and 1.94" intakes will start to hamper flow around 5,500rpm. A 2,800rpm stall speed converter NEEDS to be installed behind that cam. Is it hydraulic or mechanical lifter, and what ratio rocker arms are you using?
Sound like it's going to be fun. Really fun!

 

[bryanjeep]

sorry for that, it has> .280 intake cam lift .295 Exhaust lift, sae dur. is 270 intake and 280 exhaust...they say it is a high performance cam. The lifters are hydralic, not sure what the rocker ratio is on mine.

 

[Junkpile]

Okay, those duration numbers match the intake and heads a little better. Man, that cam profile is old school! The split duration is a good choice for the factory style head castings, because they ALL have crappy exhaust port flow and that extra duration allows the inferior exhaust to keep up with the intake. The lift numbers are waaaaay too small. If you haven't taken delivery of that engine yet, I would ask if they have any optional cams with more lift in the same duration range. The lift doesn't really affect the operating range. When choosing a cam, you look at all the cams that have a duration that matches your intended rpm operating range, and then you choose the one with the most lift. Open a Summit or Jegs catalog and compare your lift specs to the ones on similar duration cams, and you will see what I mean. It sounds like they are trying to pass off some reground cams or something.

 

[bryanjeep]

It is sitting in my garage right now. I have had it for 2 months now. Besides, I do a lot of highway driving. But I will be the happiest guy alive once I get rid of my stupid engine now and get some chevy power.

 

[Junkpile]

Sorry, I forgot.
When I said "When choosing a cam, you look at all the cams that have a duration that matches your intended rpm operating range, and then you choose the one with the most lift." That assumes that you don't exceed the clearance of other engine pieces like valve to piston clearance or valve spring bind height. But heck man, even factory Z28 springs will handle .490" valve lift!

 

[Junkpile]

Well...... it's still gonna haul ass! You can always do a cam swap later when you want a little more power.

 

[bryanjeep]

So are you saying the cam is not a high performance cam?

 

[xtremejeep350YJ]

i snapped my rear 35, didnt have any problems with it on the road, but i was wheeling in the mud one day, just playin around, when all the sudden i caught some traction in the rear, and snap, that was the end of it, managed to find a swap in a Ford 8.8" rear, already had the jeep spring perches and shock mounts on there, its one hell of an axle and has held up under all my power

 

[Junkpile]

The duration numbers would indicate a "performance cam". Technically, yes it is a high performance cam. The lift numbers are really off for that duration though. The duration is the amount of time the valve is off it's seat, expressed in degrees of rotation. Lift is how high the valve is lifted off it's seat. Lift has no influence on the inherent characteristic of a givin engine combo. That's why I asked what rockers you are running. With factory ratio of 1.5:1 you will have .420" intake valve lift, but with 1.6:1 ratio rockers your intake lift increases to .448" without changing anything else. If they are installing roller rockers, they might be using 1.6:1s to crutch up the weak lift numbers.

Don't worry about it, install it......if you aren't happy, then get back to me. We'll go through your combo and pick out a cam that suits your engine a little better. I don't think you'll really be worried about it anytime soon, especially once you realize 99.9% of the "ricers" and 50% of the "big tach on the dash of the 5.0 Mustang"guys are now sweating when you pull up beside them! haha.

 

[bryanjeep]

I wanted roller rockers on there, they weren't going to do it unless I told them I wanted it. But like you said I will be happy. Well, I know for a fact I will be happy except...

I just pulled out the warranty papers on the engine and actually read the fine print. On the website it says the engine has a 7 year 70,000 mile warranty. Great huh? Not until you look at the fine print warranty paper you get after you buy the damn thing. It said that self installers, which is me, have only a one year warranty(pissed off number 1). Then I read where you fill out the paper work on the engine and saw that you must return a fire test sheet showing all kinds of crap that you can only get out of a running engine before 90 days of purchase (pissed off number 2). Then I saw that a certified mechanic needs to do some kind of testing on it and have my reciept of inspection mailed to the company I got the engine from (pissed off number 3). Well, do I need to go on? I can't stand fine f!@#$%^ print!!!!!!! NO where on the website is this information. I called them and left the company a nice little message about this. They will call me back tommorrow... :evil:

 

[Junkpile]

I'm sorry to hear that. Warranties are usually nothing more than selling points.

I just about flipped out in the local "Crooks-R-Us" Jeep dealership a couple of weeks ago. When we bought our Grand, the salesman was competing with the Dodge dealership on the price of a Durango that we were also looking at. To make the Jeep sound like the better deal, the salesman told us he was giving us the new 7 year 100,000 mile warranty on the Grand and I didn't have to buy an extended warranty. I never followed up and checked.....DOH! The front pump went out on the transmission and burned everything in it up, at 37,100 miles. 1,100 miles OVER the standard warranty we were actually givin. After a week of being pissed off and looking at a $2000+ repair bill, we decided to purchase an extended warranty. I had to eat $1,620 because I didn't read the warranty paperwork.