Motor Mounts with a 258

jeepngeo

New member
1070155

:roll: I know that this is probably an easy fix and I will most likly feel like an idiot when I read the answer, so here it goes. How do I and is it difficult to replace my motor mounts? You can stop smiling now and help a moron out. Thanks for your continued support! :cool: [addsig]
 

1070188

No your not a moron, the first thing you will need to make this easy is an engine puller ,,,, if you don't have access to one it will be a little more dificult. But on each side of the motor ( drivers & passengers) you will havea mount, lossen the bolts and lift the engine slightly and change them , you will need to be carefull not to lift to much just what is needed if you lift to much you will break things, like bell housing, hoses, lines .....on and on you get the point... :-D [addsig]
 
1070296

Since I don't have a hoist or a puller, is there anyway to support the engine from underneath? Thanks for the help by the way! :cool: [addsig]
 
1070297

i did it i my driveway with a floor jack and a block of wood under the tranmission. it took about three hours of wedging and tugging but i got the job done on my own.[addsig]
 

1070333

Thanks Fish. That's usually about how I end up doing things - wedge, tug, swear, etc.. It's good to know that it CAN be done without an engine lift! :p [addsig]
 
1070338

I also have a 1989YJ, 258-I6.
Replacing the motor mounts with stock or even the upgrade M.O.R.E. Bombproof motor mounts took longer to think about than actually doing the job. Total time approx 20-30 minutes.
Find a floor or bottle jack; place it under the motor, (to the side, near the mount your replacing) Lift slightly! (Just enough to take the stress off the mount). Remove the 2 mount to frame bolts and the 1 mount to motor bolt. Remove the old part; replace it with the new one. Tighten the bolts, lower the jack and move to the other side. Repeat the process and your done. If you have any common sense and the ability to use hand tools, your good to go.
Have fun. :cool: [addsig]
 
1070340

subtract the time it took me to stop swearing at the frozen nut, trying to raise the engine to the right level, then lowering it to get the bolts back in. the the constant phone calls when i finally get into a grove..but those red daystar mounts look good. it might have taken me 30-40 mins[addsig]
 

1070351

4X4FISH:L.o.L....Been there too many times.

Note:
If you are planning to do this, or any repair, where there are old, or rusted fasteners involved. Spray a penetrate (PB Blaster works for us) on all nuts and bolts several times in the days before. This will give you a better shot at removing them without problems.
It saves headaches and busted knuckles too.

We use the PB Blaster on all external fasteners during regular service to keep them clean and protected.
You will appreciate this when those trail fixes are needed. :cool: [addsig]
 
1070369

i ended up going to chrysler and getting new nuts and bolts. i figured this should be the only time i take them off so i went with new ones[addsig]
 
1070397

:cool: :lol: Ahh the light at the end of the tunnel. I'm in purchase mode right now. Morgster, how much did you pay for those bombproof jobbers, would you recommend them over the Daystar poly ones? Thanks guys, this is why I keep coming back to this site!! You Rock! :evil: [addsig]
 

1070410

jeepngeo:

The M.O.R.E. Bombproof motor mounts http://www.mountainoffroad.com/ have been a good upgrade. This is a heavy-duty quality product. As for the price, they are about $70.00 for the unpainted models. (Slightly more than when I bought mine several years ago) The nice part is that they do have them unpainted (For those that want to save money and paint the mounts themselves (Rustoleum or Hammerite works great) and they also offer them in a zinc plated version for those needing extra protection from the elements)(Slightly more $$$)

Note: They have them 1 inch taller for lifting the motor at the same price, and also a Torsion Rubber Style version (Priced higher) for those with vibration concerns.

Although the Torsion Rubber Style's were not necessary on my 4.2.

As for a product comparison: I haven't seen the Daystars actually being used, but from looking at their display, they seem similar to M.O.R.E.'s.

(Personal observation)
If the prices were even close, I would buy the M.O.R.E.'s mounts first.
I have used their parts on several Jeeps without complaints and they have a good customer service and quality control.

For me, they were worth the price. :cool:
[addsig]
 
1070475

:-D Thanks again Morgster, I just ordered the bombproof mounts - zinc plated. Can't wait until they arrive. By the way - your site is excellent and that is one clean engine compartment. Where in CA do you live? I'll be moving to Sacramento in Sept.

On a side note how difficult was your Currie SYE kit to instal?[addsig]
 
1070494

why bother with dickin' around with jacks and pieces of wood? just go find a nice strong tree and tie a tow strap around it and the motor...



you think i'm kidding?[addsig]
 

1070513

jeepngeo

You are welcome. My Dad always taught me a clean motor makes it easier to find all those dropped parts you get while working on it. LoL

You should like Sacramento; the River Delta is a blast if you’re into boating and fishing. There are plenty of great mountain places to Jeep and others to play. Everything from the Lake Tahoe skiing to Reno fun back to Shasta camping to San Francisco for everything else.
You will be far away from my hometown though. I live about 9 hours south down near Newport Beach and Disneyland.

As for the Currie SYE. The install is pretty straightforward. Basic hand tools, and if I remember, snap ring pliers? Jack and stands, read the instructions and your good to go. I chose to pull the transfer case (Which wasn't hard) and do the change on the bench, then slap it back in when it was complete. This way is easier on the back and more room the work.

Have fun with the motor mounts.:cool: [addsig]
 
Back
Top