powertank, scuba-tank, air compressor...???

conejo1

New member
1042448

I want some " on-board air " ... I have spent some time trying to educate myself on the different choices for air... the whole under the hood compressor (yorks) seemz like a big hassle plus ..takes up that much more space and one more thing to break ...the powertank (liquid c02) sounds like the best way on every point ..but for the price it better be good .. electric compressors I dont see any advantage on these..like I want to spend an hour filling my tires ....After much reading and listening to opions ..The scuba-tank seems the best all-around ..portable, cheaper, easy to refill, can run air tools , will fill many tires & quickly..and no elec. or mechanical complications.if anyone has other options or draw backs to the scuba-tank I would be appreciate hearing them .



Conejo1[addsig]
 

1042454

Well, I have an on-board system, (using a saden style A/C pump) it wasn't hard to install. and it works great! has for some 15 yrs now. I've seen the Power-tank in operation, it worked killer to. Only thing about the power tank is that it freezes the delivery line right at the regulator.

The only draw-back I can see in using a scuba tank, is the size/weight. When I'm doing the Rubicon trial or any trail that I'll be on for a few days or more I don't have much room. Now I have a CJ-5, there small to start with. If I had, say a scrambler with lots of room in the back, the the scuba tank wouldn't be so bad.

I don't have one of those though. For my underhood compressor, I know I'll have air as long as my motor has gas. Electric compressor's will do the job, but as you mentioned, it could take hours.

If you don't mind the added weight and size of the tank, then it sounds like you have an answere. Otherwise, the underhood A/C compressor is a good second choice. Me, I perfer the underhood A/C route. I can't handle the added weight & size as I'm pretty packed when I'm wheeling.[addsig]
 
1042455

your right about the " freezing " on the power tank ( that is another reason why I am thinking the scuba route) ,,, as for your under the hood set-up ,,,will it run air - tools and can it push enough volume to set a bead ..and does it have any negative effects on your engine...? if the answer is no I would like to know some more about it ..thanx for the response ,,
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1043320

How's it going man...I just finished installing an on board air system in my '95 yj and I love it already. As far as having any negative effects on your engine....well....I guess any effects would be close to that of air-conditioning (reduced gas mileage) but the compressor wont be pumping all the time like A/C. In my setup I used an old York compressor off of a 73 ford truck with the connections off of a compressor from an old hornet (that one was siezed) and a pulley to fit on my water pump. I got all that for $20 at a local junkyard. I fabricated my own brackets but there are kits you can buy for them somewhere. Today I got everything finally installed and I bought a nice 7 gallon tank that fits great behind my back seat. The only thing I need now is a pressure switch. Its kind of manually operated for now but it works pretty good. I am gonna get some air tools soon to try it out but I am pretty sure it will run them....it fills the 7 gal tank to 100psi in about 20-30 seconds at idle. As far as seating a bead I have yet to test this but I might try it sometime.[addsig]
 

1043473

My on-board system runs air tools better than my home 3.5hp craftsman air compressor! Yes, at 150psi I have no problems seating blown beads! RayOvac, for a pressure switch, try Extream outback products for one if you can't locate one locally.

The compressor my jeep has is rated to run at 325psi! (according to my jeep tech manual) unfortunatly my air tank isn't. It's only rated for 150psi! But, as mentioned eariler, my system has been in use some 15+yrs now hassle free! I just a drip or two of compressor oil every-now-and-then to keep it happy.

Air volumn won't be an issue if a good sized hose is used. That't the defining thing right there. Small air hose=small volumn. Stick with a hose 3/8" or larger. Any of the "coiled" air hoses that are available will move plenty air! Larger the better though!



[addsig]
 
1043491

Made one from a York (clutch welded solid), an old refrigerant tank, a three horse lawnmower motor, refrigerant copper pipes and two pressure relief valves to bleed the extra air (an extra for saftey). The whole thing wieghs about 50 pounds and with the wheels and handle can be used anywhere. Have to wait occasionally when using an impact wrench, but works continously for anything else. Hardest part of the whole thing was making the cover for the belts. Been running for twenty years and three jeeps. We usually jeep in a group, I carry air for the bunch, trade air for sodas and such.
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1043568

Man I love my on board air system...I got a pressure switch the other day from an electrical supply place. It goes on at 80psi and off at 100psi. I would have gone higher but I figured well....my tank is only rated at 125 and most air tools are like 90 psi so I might as well not push it. It runs air tools quite well but I had to use a bit of wire to keep the engine at 2500rpm to use them continuously. They were a huge help in installing my 4" skyjacker lift kit. I love my jeep...its pretty badass now. One question though...my York gets really REALLY HOT! Is this normal. If its been pumping for a while (like when using impact on stubborn bolts) it will get so hot you cannot touch it without being burned. I checked the oil on it and it seems ok. Oh yeah what is the pressure rating for a york anyway and how much cfm can it put out?[addsig]
 

1043573

Most all Freon twelve type compressors are designed to run up to 150 PSI, but up to 200 PSI wouldn´t probably hurt much. I usually valve (switch) mine to 110-125 PSI. When a compressor gets hot enough to blister your finger it´s time to give it a break. Compressing any gas makes heat. And getting rid of the heat is an old problem. Changing the oil frequintly will help it live longer. Getting as much air circulation as possible will help. The overheating is the reason most compressors mix the oil with the gas when compressing, the evaporating and moving oil carries away some of the heat and the returning cool freon and oil help cool things down. The York keeps the oil in the galley and using it as a one way air compressor, negates the cooling of the returning freon (usually cooler than intake air). Might try routing your intake air, so it´s as cool as possible. Best choice without major construction is to give it a break when it heats up above about 220-260, 180 is about the ideal operating temp. Over 260 often breaks down the oil. Don´t know the CFM, just know it´s marginal for a 1/2 drive impact wrench or spray painting.[addsig]
 
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