TBS and Intake

C

CoastieTodd

New member
So this is only my second post here, but figured I should share what I have found. I have installed a new Throttle Body Spacer and "Cold" air intake, the intake take tube is aluminum so not really cold with the heat soak from the I-6, but I did get about 4-6 miles more per gallon or between 20 to 40 miles per tank improvement, SO is it worth it...Yes..IMO, I am looking for input on a header and transmission coolers,(I have one, but waiting to install after I get my Poison Spyder Hood Louver!!! (get some).
 

What brand of cold air intake did you buy? I put the aFe on my Jeep and didn't notice much more than a change in the wide open throttle sound, but I haven't done the throttle body spacer.

I've got a transmission cooler on the shelf waiting as well, I just haven't gotten around to it yet. I think that if you tow (and especially with the auto) you need it.
 
I have a transmission cooler on my auto, I have yetto get a gauge for it. Kinda pointless if you can't SEE the results
 

Yeah my TBS is is a 60mm I believe, not sure, the intake is an off brand from ebay, I 'm also waiting on a buddy to finish tweekin his TJ and get him to tune it for me. I am waiting on the hood louver to come in before installing the transmission cooler, I don't think I will need the gauge, my leg works just fine.
 
CoastieTodd said:
So this is only my second post here, but figured I should share what I have found. I have installed a new Throttle Body Spacer and "Cold" air intake, the intake take tube is aluminum so not really cold with the heat soak from the I-6, but I did get about 4-6 miles more per gallon or between 20 to 40 miles per tank improvement, SO is it worth it...Yes..IMO, I am looking for input on a header and transmission coolers,(I have one, but waiting to install after I get my Poison Spyder Hood Louver!!! (get some).
Click to expand...


Sure in the first ~500 mi you will see an improvement from the cold air intake. Once the PCM learns the change you are back to where you were before. Also the TBS really doesn't do anything for fuel injected engines except raise your TB. The bored out TB or larger 62 mm will give better throttle response.

There is a thread out there where a guy did a good study on CAI and stock intakes. http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=536592&highlight=colorubi+CAI
 
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Well not here to disagree but in my experience yes the main computer does learn it in order to make the right air/fuel ratio. At the end of the day your bigger bore throttle body is still physically sucking in more air then making our adjusting the correct fuel for the added air. Same goes for the TBS. The throttle body spacer is like having longer intake runners, plus depending on what type you get smooth bore or screw design or another design some spacers yeild some benefits and others not. Its all in the way air flows along with the amount of air being sucked in. Its like how big of a water hose you gonna use for your nozel, like in a presure washer. My opnion and then again maybe I am making no sense to some. O yeah dont forget to add a hotter spark for the added air and fuel for the best explosion. I agree consider a 62mm TB, more air=more fuel and adjustment by pcm=more power and response along with a TBS. Keep it cold and under pressure.
 
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Well its been awhile is this topic over with. Well it cant be, if we are still driving or rigs we still sucking in air right. Yep again I went to adjust and make a few changes to my factory custom made air filter box. I closes my sliding adjustable plate about 1/8 and the result was a greater force of air coming in. This is acting good on the top end for highway speeds. Then I opened up the bottom hole at the bottom of air box and this yielded instant air for fast take offs and also good for idle and crawling. Anyway its working that much better than before. Ok just had to let that out. I am going back to find the right sweet spot on my spark plug gap.
 
Opps just lost what I was writing, I came to my mind that's what I was going to ask, anybody have any feedbacks on dry synthetic air filter? I currently run a K&N flat panel filter and its due for a cleaning. I have been debating between the AFE synthetic and rugged ridge dry filter. Do they flow as much air as K&N ? or maybe more. Of course do they have enough filtration capabilitys ? Why is the rugged ridge dry panel cost so much less ?
 
I run an AFE filter in mine and am happy. No idea if it preforms better or worse than others though.
 

quicksand97 said:
Yep again I went to adjust and make a few changes to my factory custom made air filter box. I closes my sliding adjustable plate about 1/8 and the result was a greater force of air coming in. This is acting good on the top end for highway speeds. Then I opened up the bottom hole at the bottom of air box and this yielded instant air for fast take offs and also good for idle and crawling.
Click to expand...
You want us to believe you can adjust the power curve of the engine by changing the location of the incoming air on the airbox? Am I reading this correctly?
 

I am not trying to convience anyone, all I am saying is if I close or open my homemade adjustable air filter box via aluminum sliding L angle It alters the way my jeep acts. I can open all the way and it can take off super fast but have trouble to reach top end. Or if it is closed a bit to much slower on take off and bad gas mileage. If it is in just the right spot after making several runs I am able to find a sweet spot where she still takes off fast, has enough air charge to reach top end in no time and mileage improves. O forgot to mention gains torque on sweet spot and visa versa. I all can relate it to is air charge, what else can it be. I know its air coming in before the filter, wierd but it works for me. I guess its the way the air hits the filter ?
 
Correction on the way hits the air filter, Its also the available air in the box and the way its built up and ready to be sucked in. Its like which nozel you going to use at the end of your shop vac, big giant one, medium, or small. Well also depends have much power your shop vac has,right . You are welcome to come over and take my rig for a ride, and you will believe.
 
quicksand97 said:
Well its been awhile is this topic over with. Well it cant be, if we are still driving or rigs we still sucking in air right. Yep again I went to adjust and make a few changes to my factory custom made air filter box. I closes my sliding adjustable plate about 1/8 and the result was a greater force of air coming in. This is acting good on the top end for highway speeds. Then I opened up the bottom hole at the bottom of air box and this yielded instant air for fast take offs and also good for idle and crawling. Anyway its working that much better than before. Ok just had to let that out. I am going back to find the right sweet spot on my spark plug gap.
Click to expand...

Sounds as good as the readings from a butt dyno http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?mai...roducts_id=8&zenid=qt0j4naniuamtsdgrdsm6l5p82..

Post some numbers of sustained improvements or results. Scientific approach is best like this guy did.http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forum...lter-tube-some-interesting-objective-findings

I lost my data with a pc crash but I did see what others said I would see from a cold air intake. Better mpg for app 500 miles then it dropped right back. I have a AEM bruit force and clean it with each oil change. I like it. Oh and no dust or debris in the intake after several thousands of miles.
 
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Yea I wish I knew how to measure these results and write up data for it. All I know is that my air intake/ filter box works great with its sliding plate. Not sure exactly whats its doing, is it air pressure build up inside the box ? is it the amount of availible air ? or is it a air ram effect ? Maybe a part of all it.
 
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