Im looking into replacing my Dana 30 in my 2001 TJ, however, the new dana 44 bolt ons from a number of different companies has gotten me thinking of just swapping out a more reliable axle. When I say upgrade the dana 30 I would pretty much only replace the axle shafts with chromoly ones because I hear that is the weakest link in the chain. Another upgrade would be brakes and front drive shaft. Also, I would upgrade the stock steering components to maybe a currectlync kit from currie enterprises, since i have heard nothing but stellar reviews on it. Side question: Is the currectlync interchangeable with say a G2 Dana 44 front axle? I already have a spartan locker in the dana 30, so i know the axle shafts are going to break. Its just a matter of when. So heres the question: Throw money into the Dana 30 or save up and wait till something breaks then replace it with a Dana 44 or better?
Upgrade Dana 30 or Wait till breaks and get Dana 44
- Thread starter Jeepz4Mee
- Start date
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
If you stay with 33" tires and moderate wheeling you should be fine with upgrading the d30. Beyond 33" tires and/or heavy abuse really push the limits of the small axle.
Would you guys consider a high pinion Dana 30 an upgrade? I've heard that they are 15% or so stronger because of the way the ring gear is driven (not necessarily any stronger at the axles).
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Yes, it's an upgrade due to a stronger mesh of the gears and due to more clearance under the yoke and driveshaft.
I'm going to go out on a limb and say that a 15% increase in strength is a bit out-landish. as mentioned the gearing mesh is better, with a HP on a front axle, your gear engagement in on the drive side of the gears while in the front on a LP axle the engagement is on the coast side of the gear. That being said, there are plenty of guys in my club with a stock LP D30 front TJ axle with aftermarket shafts, locker and 35" tires. the most common failure if any will still be the shafts. Even with high buck aftermarket chomo (not including RCV in this arguement), the ears in the shaft and the U-joint caps will deform slightly under hard load, the retaining ring for the cap gets tossed and spits the cap out, hense destroying the shaft ears and usually the joint as well. I see more and more people tack welding the cap to the shaft on teh outside perimitter to keep the cap from spitting out, and it usually works.
As mentioned, 33" tires, easy to moderate wheeling, stock D30 will be fine. When you start consistantly breaking parts, then I would think about an upgrade.
Yeah, well i guess what is considered moderate wheeling? I like to push the limits with my jeep. Also, i have a spartan locker in the dana30, so I am guessing I will break something shortly. What do you guys usually carry around for spare parts for the front axles. Im thinking spare shafts and u joints. Also, doesn anyone know whether or not the currectlync fits on both dana44 and dana 30 axles? Dont feel like upgrading twice. Also, should i upgrade the locker and axle shafts? Basically, upgrade the locker to more spline count, and upgrade the axles shafts to chromoly and same spline count as new locker?
Utah_jeepster
Super Moderator
I have seen 30's, 44's and even 60's blown up on the rocks. No axle is bomb proof if you apply too much skinny pedal and spin the tires till they catch. Dropping in a "good" dana 44 will set you back 3600$+ (look up G2 axle) For that cost you could do a 60 or a R50 from Tera Flex.
Your going to drop 2100$ to increase your spline count for your 30. With upgraded axles and good rock crawling skills it should last a good long time unless your going to a V8 in the future.
Personally I am not a fan of any drag link/tie rod combo, for a little more denero you can do a high steer from Tera flex or have your local off road custom shop do a high steer system. I have been running around for over a year now without the need for a steering stabilizer. The dual steering bars fixes jeeps bright idea of a "Y" link steering system, and upgrading that to a fancy HD system still leaves them venerable to trail damage Steel links bend and don't bend back, 7075 alum arms are the way to go. As Andrew from LetzRoll off road says...a steering stabilizer is just a mask for a bad steering system.
As to what to carry as spares...one rear axle, a short and long shaft front axle and at least one stub shaft. If you spend the money on upgrading your axle shafts, like I did...two stubs and lots of u-joints. I cant afford to rebuy +spline count shafts front or rear. I haven't broken one in 10 years.
Your going to drop 2100$ to increase your spline count for your 30. With upgraded axles and good rock crawling skills it should last a good long time unless your going to a V8 in the future.
Personally I am not a fan of any drag link/tie rod combo, for a little more denero you can do a high steer from Tera flex or have your local off road custom shop do a high steer system. I have been running around for over a year now without the need for a steering stabilizer. The dual steering bars fixes jeeps bright idea of a "Y" link steering system, and upgrading that to a fancy HD system still leaves them venerable to trail damage Steel links bend and don't bend back, 7075 alum arms are the way to go. As Andrew from LetzRoll off road says...a steering stabilizer is just a mask for a bad steering system.
As to what to carry as spares...one rear axle, a short and long shaft front axle and at least one stub shaft. If you spend the money on upgrading your axle shafts, like I did...two stubs and lots of u-joints. I cant afford to rebuy +spline count shafts front or rear. I haven't broken one in 10 years.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
I would argue that. A steering stabilizer will allow every component in the steering system to last longer, minimizing the harsh impact on the components. A properly engineered and installed steering system will drive great without a stabilizer, doesn't mean you shouldn't use one.
Utah_jeepster
Super Moderator
Bounty, I think you failed to catch his main line of thinking, he isn't advocating driving without one, what he is trying to teach people is a well designed steering set up doesn't need one just to drive down the road. too many people are advocating their use because of poor steering geometry and design.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Right, as well as masking worn parts. It does sound as if advocating not using one.
Utah_jeepster
Super Moderator
true and he is the biggest retailer of PSC parts in the valley ( Hyrdo steer)...so I can see your point. lol. The main reason I changed to a high steer was the steering liked to fight me when turning with the front lockers on a off chamber situation while trying to turn at the same time.
As you can see with my new steering the track bar and drag link at perfectly parallel with each other, and with the front locker on I am not getting as much feed back from both wheels trying to turn them self back to straight while off chamber. Was told each wheel will try to turn to neutral position (straight), while the "Y" set up allows the drivers wheel to feed some pulsing through the tie rod, into the drag link, flexing it with that side pulsing. Is this true? Don't know? I do know I have a lot more control with a high steer kit.
As you can see with my new steering the track bar and drag link at perfectly parallel with each other, and with the front locker on I am not getting as much feed back from both wheels trying to turn them self back to straight while off chamber. Was told each wheel will try to turn to neutral position (straight), while the "Y" set up allows the drivers wheel to feed some pulsing through the tie rod, into the drag link, flexing it with that side pulsing. Is this true? Don't know? I do know I have a lot more control with a high steer kit.
jfrabat
New member
Going back to the OP, I have an upgraded D30 (chromoly axles with higher spline count), and I have run 33's and ARB lockers for about 4 years without issues. I dont exaclty pamper the Jeep, but I also try not to solve my problems by using the skinny pedeal. I wheel more in mud, thgouh, and that may also work in my favor when compared to rocks.
Utah Jeepster: I saw that steering setup in a JP magazine article a couple months back. Dont you have to you do anything with your knuckles on your axle to get those components on? Also, does that setup fit both dana 30 and dana 44 axles?
Also, I thought that if i just got another locker with the 30 spline count and then got the 30 spline count axle shafts then i could just upgrade it that way. Am I missing something?
Also, I thought that if i just got another locker with the 30 spline count and then got the 30 spline count axle shafts then i could just upgrade it that way. Am I missing something?
Utah_jeepster
Super Moderator
You have to change the passenger side knuckle . And if you buy a D44 later on it uses the same knuckles as a D30. If you upgrade your axle shafts and locker to a 30 spline count you shouldnt have any problems as long as your careful with your skinny pedal or drop in aV-8.
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