Which is the best Cherokee XJ?

[larrymo49]

I'm thinking about getting a Cherokee XJ between the 1992 through 2001 model.

I have heard a lot of strengths and weaknesses of various models, and I know that there are always some trade-offs...but I would like to get your objective thoughts on the year(s) with the best quality stock drive train and suspension components, etc. Time and money prevent an extensive build up initially, so I would like to find one with the best factory goodies to start with.

Also, I like a manual trans. but if the automatic works better both on and off road I would like to know why. I will not be doing any heavy rock crawling, but want to be moderately versatile in various conditions.

Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks,

Larry

 

[KrazyJeeper]

I had a 98 and liked it. I believe all the xjs have the straight six.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Many XJ's had the 4cyl engine, and some are 2wd, so you never know.

'94 is the first year for the larger 297x ujoints in the front axle, as well as the first year for the external clutch slave.
'97+ have a vibration issue in the rear driveline with any lift over stock, the '94-'96 can be lifted higher without any driveline mods.
Look for a rear receiver and you may find the tow package which includes a transmission cooler and often the heavier 8.25 rear axle.
The front axle can be found with or without the vacuum disconnect on the pass. side, so stay away from it if you want a less problematic setup.
The transfer case can be the 231 or 242, the 231 is found in Wranglers as well and the 242 adds the 'fulltime 4HI' option.

 

[larrymo49]

Many XJ's had the 4cyl engine, and some are 2wd, so you never know.

'94 is the first year for the larger 297x ujoints in the front axle, as well as the first year for the external clutch slave.
'97+ have a vibration issue in the rear driveline with any lift over stock, the '94-'96 can be lifted higher without any driveline mods.
Look for a rear receiver and you may find the tow package which includes a transmission cooler and often the heavier 8.25 rear axle.
The front axle can be found with or without the vacuum disconnect on the pass. side, so stay away from it if you want a less problematic setup.
The transfer case can be the 231 or 242, the 231 is found in Wranglers as well and the 242 adds the 'fulltime 4HI' option.

Sounds like the '94-'96 with the tow package might be the better choices if I hear you right BH. When did the XJ lose the vacuum disconnect (frt. axle) altogether? Do you have any preferences for standard or automatic trans.? If so...then why?

Also, how does the Grand Cherokee compare with the XJ for off road ability?

Sorry for so many questions, but you sound like a great tech expert on most all Jeep related questions.

Thanks,

Larry

 

[Tuff Jeeper]

The late model XJs don't have the vacuum disconnect. One thing to keep in mind is that 97+ were revamped. When they "modernized" it they stregnthened the frame, it will less likely tweak and bend under off-roading situations, it still is a good idea to get a set of aftermarket frame stiffeners, like from Rusty's off-road or something close to it.

The 6 cyl was optional, but pretty much it was the standard, the same with an auto trans, they came with a 5 speed but more often than not you will see the auto trans.

For me the auto is the only way to go. If you do any sort of rockcrawling the Auto is awesome, you can creep up to things or even ease into them without worrying about killing the engine.

My old '95 had the 8.25" and a transmission cooler, but no reciever. The best way to do it when you are checking out the vehicle check the transmission cooler and check the axle, honestly I don't feel that the 8.25" is that much stronger than the Dana 35. If any moderate wheeling will be done, I would look at the 80's model XJs for a direct swap Dana 44.

One thing about transfer cases, the 231 would be the way to go, when locked in 4LO front and rear axles receive the same amount of power or torque.

The 242 transfer case will give you the full-time 4 wheel drive, but when in tougher situations the (from what I understand) transfer case has some sort of clutching on the inside that allows more power go to one axle to the other which could be to your disadvantage when off-roading.

About the Grand Cherokee, yes they can be wheeled. I see them as more mall crawlers, but with a lift they are capable vehicles, imo i would go with the XJ for pricing reasons and off-road capability.

So basically what I am saying is get a 97+ XJ with the 4.0 Auto, (you will get a stronger frame, and avoid the front vacuum disconnect) and regardless of what axle it has, get a 44, you won't regret it.

 

[larrymo49]

Thanks Tuff and BH,

You've given me some good ideas in what to look for in the XJ. When I finally pull the trigger on one of these I will put up some photos.

Larry

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Rear axles:

Chrysler 8.25
Ring gear: 8.25"
Splines: 27 0r 29

Dana 44
Ring gear: 8.5"
Splines: 26

Really the 8.25 is just as strong as the d44, and a heck of a lot stronger than the craptastic d35 rear axle.

As for the 231v.242 debate, the 242 will function identically to the 231 except for the addition of a fulltime 4hi. 4lo is the same between the two.

'99-'01 went with a low pinion front axle which is weaker and has less ground clearance under the driveshaft than the pre'99 high pinion d30.

I would go with a '94-'96, or even up to a '98 if you plan on installing a SYE and CV rear driveshaft with any amount of lift.

Auto or manual, personal preference, I like my stick shift offroad but I also know its limitations. I like the fact that I can clutch and roll backwards on 2 and 3 point turns on the trail. Beats the hell out of stopping and shifting 4 or 5 times just to make a tight turn.

 

[Tuff Jeeper]

Thanks for the corrections BH

 

[Dirk]

The 2000 & '01 models went to the low pinion front D30 axle, which is less desirable for off-road use.
My fav years would be the '98 or '99's for that reason, although I wouldn't hesitate to buy a 2000 or '01 if the deal was right. These jeeps are only getting older each day & I can swap the front axle if I want to.
I'd definitely stay with the '97+ years for many of the reasons already mentioned.

The auto trans is also the least expensive way to go IMO, for off-road use. If you wanna crawl slowly in larger obstacles with a 5-speed, you'll need to regear the t-case. Otherwise, you'll be slipping the clutch a lot and that's not a good thing.
The torque converter in the auto will compensate for that, as was mentioned in a previous post.

I also agree with BH that the newer 8.25 rear is definitely plenty strong.
We run 35's on those axles and we do play in rocks. I've never broken a shaft-
Our rock garden:

 

[larrymo49]

Thanks Dirk and all who have responded. I think now I am more prepared and informed about selecting a Cherokee XJ than ever.

If anyone has any more info/ideas about the XJ please add them here.

And Dirk...I like your website and your testimony!

Larry

 

[Dirk]

Thanks Larry!

Pretty cool site you have there too!

 

[pspencer686]

All XJ's are not the same. When buying an xj you want to make sure first that your getting one with 4wd and not a 2wd or awd. 4wd Drive cherokees are better in many ways, they have the rear 2wd option that enables better fuel economy on the streets. You also want the 4wd because you ned it for off roadin obviously. The awd sucks because it wastes allot of gas, and im not sure how well it handles off road. Also when buying an XJ you should look at how well the body and chassis have been maintained, the more rot you have the harder it will be for you to get work done. And make sure you get the 4.0 liter straight six high output, this engine has lots of power to it and will be able to still rip around those tires when you lift and go bigger. Do not get the four banger it sucks four wheelin trust me n they also have terrible value. also the NP231 transfer case on the XJ must be upgraded if your looking to lift because it uses a slip yoke instead of a fixed yoke. Many off road sites sell this part but it can get pricy.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

They made an AWD XJ?

I wish somebody would have told me the 4cyl sucks before I started wheelin the snot out of mine, I shouldn't be having so much fun.

 

[pitbulld45]

I have a 92 xj. I picked mine up at an auction for $500. Many tow yards get stuck with em. For some reason the local drunks around here love to drive em. the tow company get em and after several months of sitting on em they can auction em off. I have had alot of fun in my 92. That being said I have been here long enough to know when Bounty Hunter says something it is WORD. I trust what he says.

 

[pitbulld45]

Also, if you are looking at the 90's check the door hinges, they like to seperate from the door jams. they are bolted directly to the jam and would rip off, you then have to reweld the jam.

 

[SteelHeadz]

They made an AWD XJ?

I wish somebody would have told me the 4cyl sucks before I started wheelin the snot out of mine, I shouldn't be having so much fun.

:funny::funny:

 

[crumb]

If you are looking for the best setup from stock I would go with the 1999 Jeep Cherokee. It comes with the 8.25 rear with the 29 splines and the hp front dana 30. It also doesn't have the cracking head problem that the '00 and '01 have. It also seems to have less of the electrical problems of it's predecessors.