1. #1

    1052382

    A month or so ago I bought a 98 TJ SE from FALVEY'S of NEW LONDON CT.

    The first weekend I had it, the fuel pump busted and left me starnded on the side of the highway. Still under warranty, I was ****ed, but hey they fixed it for free.

    A week or two that after I started finding drops of anti-freeze all over the engine. At the same time my catalytic convertor basically sounded like it was going to fall off. Still under warranty they fixed the catalytic convertor but however said they could find nothing wrong with the coolant system.

    I still have the same problem with the anti-freeze so I brought the jeep back to the dealerhship, however now they tell me I need a whole new radiator, and oh yeah, my warrany just so happens to be up now.

    I wonder how they can determine now that I need a whole new radiator when im having the same problem I did before, and im sure that they mustve used the same methods to test the radiator, etc.

    They just so happened to ignore it due to the fact that my warranty was almost up. I also told them my jeep was giving me the computer code 24, they told me that code doesnt exist. [addsig]

  2. #2

    1052388

    OUCH!!! That bites bro. Tell them that you brought it in BEFORE the warranty was up, with the same problem and that they should fix because of that. I hate dealerships for this very reason. Are they a dealership or just a used car lot?



    As for error code 24, here's something from rayOvac <TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font class="pn-sub">Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT class="pn-sub"><BLOCKQUOTE> Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on,

    off, on, off, on. (On is not start!)



    The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes

    Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be

    FLASH FLASH---FLASH FLASH FLASH



    It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!



    55 is end of codes, 33 is normal if you dont have air conditioning.



    Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this

    is not a complete listing, but it IS very close to complete.



    88 Start of test (This only appears on DRBII, it's not blinked out)

    11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad hall

    effect)

    OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; or intermittent

    loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor

    12 Memory Standby power lost (battery cable disconnected)

    13* No change in MAP from start to run

    14* MAP sensor circuit open or shorted; voltage too low

    15 No speed/distance sensor signal

    16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running

    17 Engine stays cold too long (bad thermostat)

    21 Oxygen sensor signal out of range, possibly shorted

    22* Coolant sensor signal out of range (or disconnected to set timing)

    23 Intake air temperature signal out of range

    24* Throttle position circuit out of range

    25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted

    or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found

    26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached

    27 Logic module fuel circuit internal problem

    OR

    27 TBI injector does not respond properly to control signal

    31 Evaporator Purge solenoid circuit open or shorted OR

    Evaparator solenoid circuit

    32 EGR system failure OR

    Power loss lamp open or shorted

    33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted

    34 Speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits open or shorted

    35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted

    36 Wastegate control circuit open or shorted

    37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed (blown bulb) OR

    Park/neutral switch failure

    OR

    37 Torque converter unlock circuit open or shorted, A-413 4-speed auto

    41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted

    42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted

    42 Fuel pump relay control circuit

    42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles

    OR

    42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (whatever

    that means)

    43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time

    OR

    43 Cylinder misfire

    43 Problem in power module to logic module interface

    44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board

    OR

    44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem

    OR

    44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!)

    45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)

    46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system

    voltage too low

    47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low

    51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position

    OR

    51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)

    52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position

    OR

    52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)

    53 Logic module internal problem

    54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)

    OR

    54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)

    55 End of codes

    61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted

    62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM

    62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored

    63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM

    64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure

    65 Power steering switch failure



    Copied from BC4x4.com

    </BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>[addsig]

  3. #3

    1052390

    If it's a DC Dealership, threaten to call DC Customer Service if they don't cover it. They've got it on record that you came in when it was UNDER WARRANTY and denied the problem existed. It helps (sometimes) to deal with a 5-star stealership [addsig]

  4. #4

    1052395

    <TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font class="pn-sub">Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT class="pn-sub"><BLOCKQUOTE> It helps (sometimes) to deal with a 5-star stealership

    </BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>



    Normaly true, except for the local 5 star dealership, in my area, that I'm trying to get to to loose it's rating![addsig]

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Boca Raton, FL
    Posts
    1,798

    1052397

    Do you have the slip you signed after you brought the jeep into the dealership and they said nothing was wrong and then have the signed slip recommending repair after your warrenty is up? If you do I think you have a strong case to give them a whole lot of bad publicity. Bring all your papers with you and talk to the General Manager. They are a whole lot more customer oriegnted than the service manager. As long as you have proof to back up your claim I bet he will cover the costs.[addsig]

  6. #6

    1052402

    I appreciate the responses guys. As far as the codes go there was a different trick for the 98 TJ, it was just hold down the oddomitor button and turn the car off and on quickly, itll give you a number...which gave me 24.

    I have been saving all the info on my jeep. However im not sure if its still around. My dealership is back home and im at school, so its hard for me to access all the paperwork and I have my family fighting my battles for me. Although I am in school studying law and have plenty of proffesors here to help me fight these *******s.

    So anyone in the CONNECTICUT area beware.



    [addsig]

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