76 CJ5 project.....could use some advice.

[PoliceMonkey161]

I took off the valve cover again and noticed that a couple of my push rods were really loose. To the point that they would slide out with ease. Also noticed that a few of my valves were stuck open. So I've now pretty much decided to rebuild this engine. I've never rebuilt an engine so I'm looking for some help through friends and you guys.

Hi Joe..... Greg and Flatie have covered what I wanted to say for the most part. The magnaflux test is pretty much standard at any reputable machine shop.

I have used crate engines in the past with good results. For my current project, I choose to rebuild the 258 by hand. Not only was it rewarding, but I gained a lot of insight too. Even if your block and/or head are cracked, the 258 is a very common engine. A replacement block/engine should be easy to find and aftermarket parts (with the exception of a few little things, which I will help you locate) are even more readily available.

If you have any questions about rebuilding, please contact me.

Best of Luck,

John

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Thanks guys for your input , really appreciate it. Joe , I just want to say that I think you got a great jeep and a great deal so even if you got to throw some money into the engine or replace it , we know that little jeep is well worth the time , effort and expense. Sorry if it feels a bit disheartening about the engines condition , but I agree with the steps your taking . You want to be sure that when you take your jeep out , it's going to get you back every time . I respect that and after all , a jeep has got to be dependable and as long lasting as possible.
You being a soldier knows that as well or better than most , so I fully understand your plan.
now , more than before , we all are anxious to see the results of the tear down. I'm personally holding hope as we all are that the block and head are salvageable as I believe you'll enjoy a rebuild . It's a sense of accomplishment to get an engine running that YOU built.
It dosen't get any better than that ! That day will come soon for you , driving the jeep that YOU built ! Wishing the best of success and will be looking out for your post as you can . Greg

 

[Joseph.smith54]

So, still working on getting this block to the machine shop this week. Got the distributed out, lifters, and cam pulled. I think I I've got as far as I can go without getting the engine out. Pistons and crank are all that's left. Quick question, can I just remove the crank before the pistons? Just so I can pull the pistons out of the bottom and won't have to hone the top of my cylinders and let the machine shop worry about it.

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

Hey Joe.... The crank will have to out and pistons have to come out the top. They won't clear the crank supports from the bottom end.

 

[Shewilly]

Sincerely hope all goes well! Fingers crossed for ya!

 

[Joseph.smith54]

The machine shop I brought It to today gave me a comforting feeling. I think those guys will be able to get me on the right track. I pulled the engine and got it to a bare block in the back of my buddy's truck. Dropped it off and got prices.
Bore block: 72.00
Oven clean block and install cam bearings: 60.00
Magnaflux: 28.00
Grind crankshaft: 82.00
Polish crankshaft: 24.00
Remove/ replace pistons: 30.00

 

[flatie46]

Sounds great man, don't forget new freeze plugs.

 

[Joseph.smith54]

Anyone have a good source for a rebuild kit for it? I've been looking around on the internet and I have found a few kits by companies that I have never heard of. Also, I could use some words of wisdom about the transmission. Yet again I have no clue on the condition while running. I'm thinking about taking it out, draining the fluid, replacing the seals and putting new trans fluid in it. I really don't want to rebuild a 3 speed manual transmission.

 

[Shewilly]

Sounds more than reasonable, I guess that would be a weight lifted! So assuming everything goes well, and not dismissing all the labor on your behalf, when you get it back and rebuild it, should be under a grand?

 

[Joseph.smith54]

Yes, purely in the engine alone it will be close to 850. I could get away with less but I want it to be practically a new engine when i am done so I will be replacing the distributor and pretty much anything else that isn't covered in the rebuild kit.

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

Joe, try Northern Auto. I got the kit for my 258 there and paid a few dollars more to upgrade my bearings. Their customer service was great!

As for your trans, I'm guessing you have a T176? Whether you have a T176/177 or a T4/5, the complete rebuild is not overly complicated but you will need a press for any of them. The most complicated parts will be the shifting linkage and rods/forks. Replacing the gaskets, input/output oil seals and reapply the RTV seals is a start and fair but it won't address the synro rings, dog ears, bearings or any of the internal moving parts that are going to require you to pull the whole unit and start over if there is a problem.

Even if you are not prepared to do the work yourself and have to farm it out, it's still cheap insurance of a trouble free start up. Don't over look your transfer case either. The D20 is a solid unit but will a pain the butt to pull back out at the last minute because its leaking, wont shift, or whatever.

 

[Joseph.smith54]

The one upgrade I am considering is a mild cam. Any suggestion and do you think northern auto would taylor the sell for it?

 

[Joseph.smith54]

Never mind. I found the master kit on their website. I see where they have selections of comp cams for an extra $64. Now just determining which one will be my next challenge. I like this website. A bit pricey but still cheaper than piecing it together I think.

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

Never mind. I found the master kit on their website. I see where they have selections of comp cams for an extra $64. Now just determining which one will be my next challenge. I like this website. A bit pricey but still cheaper than piecing it together I think.

try going to the comp cams web site, great info there. I went with the one slightly more aggressive than stock. When I ordered my kit from Northern, I got the add on items (on the bottom of the page) like the plast-o-gauges and a couple rod bolt caps (which you'll need if your doing the assembly yourself). That's were you're really going to save time and money because you wont be getting one thing here and another there. The shipping costs add up quickly.

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

try going to the comp cams web site, great info there. I went with the one slightly more aggressive than stock. When I ordered my kit from Northern, I got the add on items (on the bottom of the page) like the plast-o-gauges and a couple rod bolt caps (which you'll need if your doing the assembly yourself). That's were you're really going to save time and money because you wont be getting one thing here and another there. The shipping costs add up quickly.

Oh the other thing...... You can call Northern to customize any part of the kit you would like to upgrade or if you dont need something that is included (like cam bearings because your machine shop will likely be installing their own brand) they will credit you the difference. If they still offer it as an option, get the one piece oil pan gasket, its much easier to work with!

 

[Joseph.smith54]

So, got the call from the machine shop. The engine has been worked over before. Boring cylinders .060. Just ordered the master rebuild kit from northern auto and got the 68-201-4 comp cam. Done a quick google search before completing my order and found a promo code of "ve10off" which gave me 10% off.

 

[Joseph.smith54]

Can't wait for the rebuild kit to get here. Tuesday....Tuesday. For the mean time I have been preparing the body to get it off of the frame. The dash is off, the transmission is out, and I got all the stuff out of the back. I started taking the body bolts out but a few are spinning with the fasteners.

 

[Joseph.smith54]

And before I forget. This was it when I bought it. Motor locked up and out in the weather for no telling how long.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

I really have to say , for $600 , the jeep basically looks sound . There is a minimal amount of rust that should be easy to deal with (surface rust ). One or two attempts by the previous owner to repair rot but for that price , you could not get an entire body tub and you got an entire jeep ! Right place at the right time. Soon , we'll see the body off then time to deal with the rolling chassis . To me , this is a realistic project that is commonly found in this condition but the price was even better . It's rare you find a solid jeep in running shape that you can score for well less than a five digit figure. Thanks for the pictures , they really give us a good perspective at how your jeep will look soon when your project is complete . Doing a great job.

 

[Joseph.smith54]

The original color was "brillant blue". I will be going back with that. I'm taking the body lift off and if I can't find another pair of the wheels that are on back then I'll go with a new set. I need some seat frames for those tan bestop seats. They are in decent shape so I think I'll hold on to them. And you're right about the previous owner's patchwork. I'll take the advice of my body guy about it. Not sure about the bumpers just yet. Not too excited about tube bumpers but I will just have to shop around. That should give everyone a general idea of where this project is headed.