Air Bubbles in Power Steering

[rnsakanya]

Hello,
Does anyone know how to remove air bubbles from the power steering inna 2.5 CRD (Liberty). The steering has been rigid from the time i changed the steering pump.

Richard

 

[Gennybro]

With the vechicle running, work the steering wheel back and forth a couple of dozen times.

 

[jps4jeep]

air in power steering is cause by two things.

Not purging the air out of the system upon startup which is mentioned above or overheating. air bubbles will form in the fluid if too hot and will cause cavitation.

 

[jrodsair]

I'm replacing my pressure line on my power steering pump. Will I have to purge it?

 

[SteelHeadz]

Yes you do. Jack up the front axles untill the tires are no longer on the ground. Fill the reservoir to specs. then turn your steering wheel lock to lock position then recheck the fluid level. Do this multiple times until the fluid is no longer dropping in the reservoir level. Do not start the engine while doing this or it might damage the new pump.

 

[Gennybro]

Yes you do. Jack up the front axles untill the tires are no longer on the ground. Fill the reservoir to specs. then turn your steering wheel lock to lock position then recheck the fluid level. Do this multiple times until the fluid is no longer dropping in the reservoir level. Do not start the engine while doing this or it might damage the new pump.

He had said, new pressure line, not new pump. But since we are on the subject, I am under the impression that starting the vechicle with a new pump in it may damage it. Thus considering the new pump is bone dry upon installation. Would it be possible and feasable to put fluid into the pump prior to installation, in the hopes of illminating a lot of cussing and turning of the wheel to purge the system.

 

[SteelHeadz]

My bad, i read that wrong. Regardless, the procedure is just the same. The new pressure line will still have air when you install it and IT WILL circulate in the system until it reaches the reservoir from the return line.

 

[jrodsair]

My bad, i read that wrong. Regardless, the procedure is just the same. The new pressure line will still have air when you install it and IT WILL circulate in the system until it reaches the reservoir from the return line.

Thanks folks. But right now I can't even get the line to thread. It kicked my wheels all evening!! I cussed, screamed and even poured out my brew. It's a pain to replace. So tonight I'll have a little help holding the new pressure line in position. Some jeepsters at work said I must remove the steering box but I'm determined not to. I've recovered crashed aircraft and flew away and it was easier than replacing that line!! I'll get back to you!!

 

[Gennybro]

My bad, i read that wrong. Regardless, the procedure is just the same. The new pressure line will still have air when you install it and IT WILL circulate in the system until it reaches the reservoir from the return line.

Ok, but can he be running the vechicle while he purges the system since it is only the line and not the pump? If you do have to install a new pump can you fill it with fluid prior to installation, such as in the case of replaceing a master cylinder. I'm thinking that if you can do that to a new pump ,purgeing the system would be easier,hence you could have the motor running without worry of damageing the pump.

 

[steady.foot]

Thanks folks. But right now I can't even get the line to thread. It kicked my wheels all evening!! I cussed, screamed and even poured out my brew. It's a pain to replace. So tonight I'll have a little help holding the new pressure line in position. Some jeepsters at work said I must remove the steering box but I'm determined not to. I've recovered crashed aircraft and flew away and it was easier than replacing that line!! I'll get back to you!!

Take out the four bolts that hold the radiator in and lift it just a few inches and block it. Then it's a lot easier to get to the steering box lines.
If you have a fan shroud, You may have to remove it.

 

[SteelHeadz]

Theres nothing wrong in pre bleeding the air from the system but you can't compare that to a master cylinder. A master cylinder is actuated by human force and the p/s pump is through a combustion engine that spins at min 550rpms. Every little bit of air bubbles that passes through that vane pump is likely to damage or render that pump short lived. That's all im pointing out here. It's ineveitable that even if you pre bleed the line, there's still going to be a minute air pocket during the installation. At any case the best tool to use is a handheld vacuum pump set at 15Hg on the filler neck of the reservoir while your turning your steering wheel lock to lock with the engine off.

 

[Gennybro]

Theres nothing wrong in pre bleeding the air from the system but you can't compare that to a master cylinder. A master cylinder is actuated by human force and the p/s pump is through a combustion engine that spins at min 550rpms. Every little bit of air bubbles that passes through that vane pump is likely to damage or render that pump short lived. That's all im pointing out here. It's ineveitable that even if you pre bleed the line, there's still going to be a minute air pocket during the installation. At any case the best tool to use is a handheld vacuum pump set at 15Hg on the filler neck of the reservoir while your turning your steering wheel lock to lock with the engine off.

Thanks for the info.

 

[jrodsair]

Take out the four bolts that hold the radiator in and lift it just a few inches and block it. Then it's a lot easier to get to the steering box lines.
If you have a fan shroud, You may have to remove it.

Thanks. I was determined to get the lines in without any removals. All I needed was that extra hand to twist and hold the hose in the right position. I had both lines removed and got both put on. It was challenging never having done it before. But I got it. I did bleed it as you said in it had no issues. She's all good!!