yo momma yj
New member
your truth may differ from mine
heat expands, cold contracts in most corners of the universe I'm familiar with. it's a wise man who capitalizes on this physical phenomena.
bolt stuck!! BAD!!
- Thread starter sweetpeet
- Start date
your truth may differ from mine
heat expands, cold contracts in most corners of the universe I'm familiar with. it's a wise man who capitalizes on this physical phenomena.
I worked in a machine shop for a while. We used the weld and cool method on anything stuck we needed to remove. When the weld cools it causes the bolt to shrink usually smaller than it was before. Used this method on the screw in freeze plugs and oil galley plugs, broken bolts and even valve seats. On valve seats they will litterally fall out after the weld cools.
Team Twisted Off Road
New member
Yep i have done the weld shop thing to but i do work on rusty cars and trucks and cooling a bolt never helped me out i have broke and bent meny tools a torch is mans best friend (TIME IS MONEY) in auto repair..
sweetpeet
New member
not yet. im going to try and torch it (since dont have a welder), let it cool and try to remove. but if that does not work then I will have to do a die-out. unless, I happen to find a very cheap spot welder to get a nut on. however I dont know if the spot welder will weld strong enough. does anyone know if it will?
so, ya, thats what I plan to do this weekend bobcat.
bobcat481
New member
By spot welder do you mean wire feed or stick? I think of spot welder as a sheet metal "pinch welder". Maybe I'm a little slow on the terms. If you've got a Harbor Freight near you, they've got a pretty decent wire feed (Chicago Brand) for something like $89. My buddy just bought one and it works flawlessly (sp?). Is the stud all gnarled up? Do you have anything in the way of threads left? I would still avoid cutting/grinding/drilling it until all options are exhausted. Any metal left hanging out is useful. Once it gets down to flush with the block, you're getting into some real tricky work (especially with a hand drill). Have you tried a bolt/nut extractor? I would heat the stud up, and wack the end of it a few times with a hammer (assuming the threads are already jacked). Let it cool >>> Rrepeat. >> Repeat. >> Repeat. In between times, (when cold) get the bolt extractor on it and try to turn it out. Don't chew it up, if it don't let loose, heat and repeat. A few cycles might get it. Heating the block is good, but be carefull > it is cast a could crack. A little transmission fluid soaking it overnight won't hurt any either. That's about all I got to say about that. Good Luck, keep us posted, save some metal to work with, LATER, Brad
Turbogus
New member
Last year I had not a bolt siezed in the block, rather, a pipe plug stuck in the water jacket of the ~aluminum~ Edelbrock intake manifold. I needed access for my electrical fan sender. To get the bugger out I first covered the pipe plug with an impact socket (they're thicker than conventional) that just covered the plug without much of an overlap. Doused the edges with PB Blaster, then positioned a Milwaukee heat gun on a stand for a couple of hours then used a Sears bolt extraction kit CAREFULLY~but not before I tried one of those USELESS gator grip sockets on it and boogered up the square drive of the pipe plug. The plug came out and the threads of the manifold were left intact.
glenn beck
New member
any way work as long as you dont use made in china easy outs. best ive found is napa square easyouts as they dont snap. a broken easy out is the worst thing to try drilling out and normally ends up with a left handed diamond drill bit for 50 plus bucks. as for welding i wouldnt try that with out a good mask pref auto darking as theres not much room for missing especially with a stick welder. take your time and you will get it.
ps dremmel is the best drill to start with if you decied to use a easyout for some reason it seems easier to get a straight pilot hole dead center and you can fell when you have reach the end of the bolt so you dont drill to deep.
ps dremmel is the best drill to start with if you decied to use a easyout for some reason it seems easier to get a straight pilot hole dead center and you can fell when you have reach the end of the bolt so you dont drill to deep.
sweetpeet
New member
ok everyone, thanks for the help. I tried everything suggested and it sill did not budge. so I brought it to a machine shop, plus I had an oil pan bolt that was completely severed off and one other water pump bolt. I was sick of sinking time in this one thing so i just gave in to the machine shop option.
C
cuinan
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