crank position sensor

lognhornd

New member
Backround Info: 87 4.0 207000, recent plugs, wires, oil/air/fuel filter.
Problem: randomly idles rough then stalls.
Attempts: fuel filter, fuel additive to to clean injectors, TB cleaner.
Had pep boys diagnose it and they say it should be a crank position sensor they want $40 labor to do it. Id rather do it myself. I think I have located it where the transmission case meets the engine, it is in a tough place to get to. My question is has anyone done this before and have any suggestions in fixing this hard to reach part.
 

sorry for the double topic and the subseqeunt(spelling?) double post.
 
RE: CJ6 cyl in a Cherokee?

lognhornd said:
sorry for the double topic and the subseqeunt(spelling?) double post.

No prob, took care of it. BTW you can always delete your own second accidental post. :wink:
 
Crankshaft Position Sensor, eh? A good sensor, which will serve the people well. 40 bucks is highway robbery, in my humble opinion... Though I do not know the precise mechanism under the distributor, I do know that it will be under the distributor, and have a wire harness hooking into it, should not be that hard to get to, but then again, I'm working with a distributorless system...
 

RE: Re: RE: crank position sensor

Crank position sensor, you are correct, is where the bellhousing meets the engine. It is really not TOO bad to reach. I believe I removed mine from below
 
Aging Jeep- For 2000 and up jeep owners

well it has been replaced, and the problem seems lessened but still stalled at idle on the way home, and there is "buck" or "jerk" while cruising at around 40mph once or twice in a 5-6 mile drive. I have never been able to correctly diagnose these things so I take them somewhere they tell what to replace and I do it. I have a feeling pep boys will tellme to replace another sensor then when that doesnt work yet another. I know e-diagnosing is tough, so I may just take it to a different mechanic to have them diagnose it.
 
i have the same problem with my 89 xj i also replaced the crankshaft sensor
can you let me know if you got it fixed and what was it cause right now i am out of ideas
 

RE: low brake pedal after beefy axle swap

problem came back after pep boys replaced sensor, i took it to jeep specialists here in town. they said that pep boys didnt tie back a wire to the sensor and the exhaust manifold burned it. they also said someone screwed up my idle screw something bad, and fixed it for free. they replaced sensor and pep boys payed for the repair. I have sense ran it out of gas here prior to FL's little gas problem, then filled it with premium(only gas left, now gone) and it keeps stalliing i could have ruined the pump or return of the problem. typing wierd in hurry must sleep.
 
2.5td 1998

the auto electrician said its the ECU or the harness, he will know for sure later. but he is pretty sure of the ecu being the problem. I found them for 100 bucks at advance auto parts, but i wanted to know the location of the ecu and my books aren't with me so i come to you for help. Is it under the dash like in other cars or somewhere else maybe harder to get to? Once again any help is greatly appreciated.
 
willys cj2a body parts and axles

I THINK, thought I could be wrong, that the ECU is the computer... In which case, if you're looking down at your air cleaner box from the front of the Jeep, it's right there between the right side of the box, and the wall of the engine compartment, with three or so wire harnesses coming out of it.

Of if that acronym stands for something else, I'm completely wrong.
 

A sticky IAC will do that, they get gunked up and stick often. A sticky IAC, will often make you give some pedal at start up and/or when it does start without having to coax it, it will idle up really high (it all depends on which position the IAC is sticking in). You mentioned bucking at 40 MPH, O2 sensor will that, and also messes with your idle. But I rarely seen them cause stalling.
EGR valve sticking open, probably won´t mess with the motor at normal cruising RPM´s, but will make it idle really bad and often stall when stopping and/or slowing for a corner.
When it idles does it kind of cycle a little too high and a little to low? This is a sign of a marginal O2 sensor and/or a vacuum leak.
Crank position sensor often causes a no start. I've noticed when they get a little old, they can make for a slightly rough idle, but when they get bad, that sucker won´t start at all.
 
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