Next 2150 question
- Thread starter lah2420
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idrthrbfishing
New member
sounds link something may be jammed or your throttle body may have a slight leek- this happened on an eagle sedan I had. try spraying carb cleaner around the carb/intake till you get a change in rpm---thereis your leak. I fixed the eagle with block patch as it wasn't worth fixing properly with all the dents it had.
idrthrbfishing
New member
RE: Career Change 2: Radiologic Technology
Also depending on themake and year of the carb you have you may have a electric (-idler pump???) on the side of the carb it has a wire or two going to it it probably has something to do with emmissions. but it also has some ports in it that may be plugged up.
Also depending on themake and year of the carb you have you may have a electric (-idler pump???) on the side of the carb it has a wire or two going to it it probably has something to do with emmissions. but it also has some ports in it that may be plugged up.
lah2420
New member
No pump on it. I tried it this morning and spraying carb cleaner around the base made no difference. I unplugged the PCV hose and plugged it off and the idle dropped to about 1500. Looking in the top of the carb, there is what looks like a lot of gas going into the venturi, but that may be from the vacuum. If the float is set too high or not shutting the flow off, could it cause this type of problem?
idrthrbfishing
New member
yea if your float is stuck you will flood the engine/can make it hard to start due to flooding or can be real easy due to richness. but one way or the other the air/fuel ratio will not change properly with the jet adjustment. the idle will rev to burn all available fuel possible with all air possible; the carb will get the air it needs. The float set to high or to low will cause a mixture problem but thats what the screw adjustment are for. A stuck float can cause a mixure problem that may result in a iddle issue. but a stuck float normally will cause a servere loss of power/stalling on the road as you open the throttle and no more fuel is dumped in bowl and it begins to run at a very low level. causing a very lean mixture. now a severly miss adjusted float csn cause a very rich/lean mixture that cannot be adjusted out. this will not normally cause surging but may cause high/low idle with loss of power or poor gas milage. obviously a stuck shut float will not allow any fuel in. a stuck open float can/will cause flooding. as you decribed, but was the engine running you may have been looking at the carb working ./Now with all of that a bad pvc valve can cause oil vapor in the carb and burnt oil smell, this can cause a idle issue( oil does burn--didn't think of that) with all of your screws adjusted all over the place. and the response from your pvc valve removal what would happen if you put all the screws back and started over with a new pvc valve??? hope this helps
lah2420
New member
RE: Re: RE: lift for 88 wrangler yj
I'm down to 1000 rpm, but the idle screws still don't make a lot of difference. Had the distributor advance line in the wrong port. Just for a reference point I disconnected all vacuum lines and plugged the ports. No change. I then sprayed WD40 all around the carb base. No change. Would the jets being too big keep the idle up? I'm grasping at straws now. When you kill the motor, it stumbles and doesn't want to die leading me to think it may be getting too much fuel.
I'm down to 1000 rpm, but the idle screws still don't make a lot of difference. Had the distributor advance line in the wrong port. Just for a reference point I disconnected all vacuum lines and plugged the ports. No change. I then sprayed WD40 all around the carb base. No change. Would the jets being too big keep the idle up? I'm grasping at straws now. When you kill the motor, it stumbles and doesn't want to die leading me to think it may be getting too much fuel.
idrthrbfishing
New member
All the idle screw adjusts is the throttle plate adjustment. what you are describing seems to leed to all your fuel not being burnt leading to run on. as for the jets being to big I dont think this whould cause this the jets are set for the carb ports a leaking port may cause this, a needle that is to small or worn out, or a port that is damagmed may cause this, a over sized jet just allows more fuel to flow resulting in the carb sucking more air resulting in more power. Run on or diesling may be a result of a bad timing, leading to unspent fuel burning after the spark is removed. but what was the reson for rebuilding the carb in the first place and who did it? the carb is probably the issue. I havent rebuilt a carb in about 6 yrs as I am not a mechanic-used to be one in the early 90's. the last carb I rebuilt was on my eagle and my nieghbor and I did it together over a 12 pack. on a friday night till 2 am. needed the car for work in the morning.- thats when I found out that my throttle plate was cracked. I would at this point pull the carb and carefully check to make sure the float is moving properly and properly adjusted. check you needles to ensure they are not bent or damagged in any way. and start with a clean frame of mind. the reason for this is you say the jet adjustments are not making any changes and you cant find a leak. this leads me to believe there is a problem with the rebuild. or reinstallation if you have any one that can look it over with you (with just a little bit of mech sense and a rebuild manual) another set of eyes might help. its got to be something very simple or the engine would not run.
lah2420
New member
Cranked it this evening and it's running 2500 rpm again without any changes by me. I've put the Weber back on to be able to drive while I tear the MC apart to see what I did wrong. It's not a vacuum leak anywhere I can find, so it must be that I forgot something essential in rebuilding it. The Weber runs fine, so I know the engine vacuum systems are good.
lah2420
New member
The Weber has given me trouble snce I got it. Took it off to try the 2150 and when that wasn't workng I ut the weber back on to drive with while I tried to figure out my problem. Ever since putting the weber back on, it starts in just a few seconds instead of minutes like before. I'm going to run a tank of gas through and see if it has quit running rich and sucking gas like before. Maybe I skeered it into acting right. I'd try that with my wife but she might hide the Jeep keys.
SenorCole86
New member
MPG & Odometer with bigger tires
On my 2150, there was a channel in the baseplate connecting the two barrels. This channel is not covered by the adapter. I had to plug this channel before I could get mine to run. Just a suggestion.
On my 2150, there was a channel in the baseplate connecting the two barrels. This channel is not covered by the adapter. I had to plug this channel before I could get mine to run. Just a suggestion.
derff96963
New member
RE: Been and Gone!
I just wanted to say that having also seen both the 2150 is much better than the Weber if you get the right size and install it right. Don't get me wrong the weber it a good carb, but from what I have heard and seen they are just too hard to tune properly. Sometimes you get lucky but I have heard way more people that can't adjust it right. My motorcraft will run almost no matter what. When I set the timming I can run the idle speed all the way down to about 400 RPM and it will still run just fine.
I would guess you have a vacuum leak somewhere, or is the fast idle cam from the choke still catching? Are you saying you can't get the idle lower than 1000 by adjust the idle speed screw, or you can't get it to stay running at less that 1000 rpm?
I just wanted to say that having also seen both the 2150 is much better than the Weber if you get the right size and install it right. Don't get me wrong the weber it a good carb, but from what I have heard and seen they are just too hard to tune properly. Sometimes you get lucky but I have heard way more people that can't adjust it right. My motorcraft will run almost no matter what. When I set the timming I can run the idle speed all the way down to about 400 RPM and it will still run just fine.
I would guess you have a vacuum leak somewhere, or is the fast idle cam from the choke still catching? Are you saying you can't get the idle lower than 1000 by adjust the idle speed screw, or you can't get it to stay running at less that 1000 rpm?
lah2420
New member
RE: Another tragedy
Idle would'nt go lower than 1000. I'm going to take a picture of what I've found so far. I have it idling and running now, but it diesels when I kill it. Mine has the channel between venturis, but didn't give me any trouble. That's where it stands today. PROGRESS!!!!! It has a very quick response on takeoff that the Weber never had. Once I get the dieseling figured out and check gas mileage, I may leave it on. The comparing began today.
Idle would'nt go lower than 1000. I'm going to take a picture of what I've found so far. I have it idling and running now, but it diesels when I kill it. Mine has the channel between venturis, but didn't give me any trouble. That's where it stands today. PROGRESS!!!!! It has a very quick response on takeoff that the Weber never had. Once I get the dieseling figured out and check gas mileage, I may leave it on. The comparing began today.
