Transmission mount

[Joopin]

Well since I lifted my jeep another 1.5" I had to get my rear shaft lengthened. The driveshaft guy pointed out that my transmission was moving up when in first and second gear and he told me to check my motor and transmission mounts which I did.

The motor mounts are fine but the transmission mount that bolts to the skid plate was shaking around in there and had all sorts of play allowing the tailshaft to move up maxing out my driveshaft. There are to "T" shaped bushings in there on either side of the skid. They didn't offer any kind of support the way they were in there, so I flipped on over but it still has some play in it.

Does anyone know how this is supposed to go together? I was thinking of adding som washers in there so I can tighten this nut down more... but I would like to do it right if anyone knows how. Thanks!

Joop

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Sounds like you're describing the torque mount next to the transmission mount? They don't tighten up very tight even when in good shape, and it's about $12 to replace the entire assembly with a stealership part.

If you're getting that much up and down movement, I suggest replacing the transmission mount under the transmission.

 

[Joopin]

Hmm i just assumed that there was only one mount there...
So transmission mount is where? Does it mount to the skid plate as well?

Okay I see it, I should just buy a replacement with polyurathane bushings... Do I have to drop the skid plate to install this thing?

 

[TWDJ]

I just got done replacing the transmission mount as well as the "torque arm" you are describing.

The "torque arm" is about 3" to the driver side of the actual transmission mount ... mine is an TF999, but the drawings show the manual transmission being the same relative location. I got the torque arm replacement parts from DC but used polyurethane bushings from Daystar. If you need the DC part numbers and descriptions, let me know and I can post them for all to see. $15 seems about right for all the parts (except bushings).

The transmission mount was also from Daystar. Just as was said earlier, the torque arm should be "somewhat loose", but not sloppy.

To install and properly adjust, remove the belly pan as usual and install the transmission mount to the transmission. Take the verticle components of the torque arm assembly apart, replacing any "bashed" parts (mine were trash so I replaced them all). When you reassemble the torque arm, you are making a "torque arm sandwich". The torque arm itself will have bushings top and bottom with washers and locknuts holding the bushings in place against the torque arm. Do NOT tighten too much, just get the bushings to touch down snuggly (details in the FSM!). The torque arm only keeps the transmission from rotating under accelleration and decelleration. At this time, put the nut on the torque arm that fits on the top of the belly pan. Screw it upward to the torque arm but do not tighten.

Put the belly pan back in place, and bolt to the transmission mount. You will notice the toque arm sticking through the belly pan. Unscrew the belly pan mounting nut on the torque arm assembly closest to the belly pan until it just touches ... the remaining mounting nut screws up from the bottom and tightens against the belly pan. The verticle components of the torque arm are held in place by the belly pan.

When the engine torques now, the the torque arm has a little compression due to the bushings but not so much as to allow the transmission to move more than a fraction of an inch. Same for decelleration. If you do what I did and use polyurethane, you will pick up vibrations as more will be transmitted than if you had used rubber.

Hope this helps!

 

[Joopin]

Thanks TWDJ... That's what I needed. I just ordered the Poly mount... I'm going to reuse the torque arm stuff.

 

[jay79cj7]

I replaced my torque arm a year and a half ago... I did mine pretty tight... What is the reason for not making it more than just a little snug? Do I need to go out there and loosen it?

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

They're designed for a little play, it's why the bushings are shaped the way they are.

 

[TWDJ]

Agreement with Bounty Hunter. If you tighten too much, there is no play in the system. The reason there needs to be some is to to allow for the torque reaction. Over time, with things too tight, there will be mechanical fatigue in mounts, bushings and U-joints.

Just loosen enough to get the shape back in the rubber isolators. If using polyurethane loosen enough so you can just spin the isolator with your fingers. The lock nuts will keep everything from loosening any further.

Oh, and be prepared to have a small reduction in transmitted vibration (good thing).