What did you do to your Jeep today?


Changed the interior lights out with LEDs

I hated that ugly orange / yellowish light the factory halogen bulbs give, these LEDs gives a nice white light without being too bright either.

Also considering the previous owner installed an ugly bright blue LED light in the back...this is a huge improvement.

eb90444dacf61329d8961ed1f5260063-1.jpg


And it looks like I also managed to take a crappy blurry picture of it at the same time


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New tires
New plugs
Tightened exhaust at manifold.
New battery
Repaired multifunction fog light switch.

Got to find good glue to for rubber to metal. My AEM intake mount keeps falling apart.

Tracking down coolant leak near the bottom of the radiator. All new 2017. EDIT: all spring hose clamps were bad to some degree. All replaced. See radiator bomb thread.

Time for new lift, shocks snd steeeing

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Last edited:
New water pump to fix a leak.
New OPDA due to P0016 popping up.
Found the dealer messed up timing when checking OPDA. They did it when I took it in for a new CAT.


Regards,
JPNinPA

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Not today,but i put a reman computer in yesterday.

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94 Wrangler
At first when you go through the key motion it looks like it clicks through the positions. Later it looks like one motion. When you turn the key is it surprisingly easy and no clicks? If so there is an shaft in the ignition that broke. Had it happen to me. Goes without warning or abuse. On TJ it was easily replaced. I think it was called an actuator pin.

If it clicks all the way through start measuring voltages at the battery should be 12.6 and if you engage the starter it would dip down while cranking. If the starter is shorted the voltage will dip below 10v. Check all the wiring to the battery that it isn't pulled off or corroated. Inspect grounds.
If you have jumper cables you might carefully jump the battery positive to the starter solenoid and see if it engages. You don't want yo start it just see if it will turn the engine. If not pull battery and starter and have them tested.
If it does measure the voltage at the solenoid when you turn the key to on. If no voltage back up yo the ignition. Measure input and output voltages key on and off and start.


Manual shift? Check your fuses. There is a fuse on the clutch engagement.
Automatic make sure you are in park or try putting it in neutral to start. You might push forward a bit or pull a bit to see if the NSS is moved.




Regards,
JPNinPA

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Last edited:
94 Wrangler
At first when you go through the key motion it looks like it clicks through the positions. Later it looks like one motion. When you turn the key is it surprisingly easy and no clicks? If so there is an shaft in the ignition that broke. Had it happen to me. Goes without warning or abuse. On TJ it was easily replaced. I think it was called a actuator pin.

If it clicks all the way through start measuring voltages at the battery should be 12.6 and if you engage the starter it would dip down while cranking. If the starter is shorted the voltage will dip below 10v. Check all the wiring to the battery that it isn't pulled off or corroated. Inspect grounds.
If you have jumper cables you might carefully jump the battery positive to the starter solenoid and see if it engages. You don't want yo start it just see if it will turn the engine. If not pull battery and starter and have them tested.
If it does measure the voltage at the solenoid when you turn the key to on. If no voltage back up yo the ignition. Measure input and output voltages key on and off and start.


Manual shift? Check your fuses. There is a fuse on the clutch engagement.
Automatic make sure you are in park or try putting it in neutral to start. You might push forward a bit or pull a bit to see if the NSS is moved.




Regards,
JPNinPA

Sent using TapTalk


Regards,
JPNinPA

Sent using TapTalk
 
Last edited:

Installed new camshaft position sensor and a crankshaft position sensor (second one since March). I sure hope this fixes my problem. Only thing left is the wiring I guess.
 

TerryMason said:
Were those difficult? I've never done either myself.
Click to expand...

Camshaft position sensor was very easy. It's on the side of the engine right next to the oil filter. Two screws and the wiring connector and that's it. I know some jeeps, older ones I think, have it inside the distributor. Looks a little more complicated from the youtube videos but not too bad. The crankshaft position sensor is on top of the bellhousing on the drivers side. My shop replaced this under warranty so don't know how difficult it is but just looking at it, it looks pretty tight.

JPNinPA said:
What is the issue?
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Click to expand...

Since I had the new engine installed last year I've had periodic trouble with a rough idle. Barely noticeable but there. Every once in a long while it would die. It would start right back up though with no problem. The last few months it has gotten worse. It just died on me driving home one day. Waited 20 minutes and it started and drove it home. Took to shop and they replaced the crankcase position sensor. All was good for a few months and then it did it again. Died on me twice before I could get it home. Checked the code myself and again said crankcase or camshaft sensor. I replaced the camshaft sensor with a mopar part and hoped it was fixed. That weekend it did it again twice. Back to the shop and they think it was a bad crankshaft position sensor. They replaced it with a mopar part and called it fixed. We'll see.
 
Error Code P1391 happens when the PCM (powertrain control module) has detected that the actual position of the CMP disagrees with its expected level as set by the manufacturer

So is this a fuel injected engine with high energy ignition rail? Where the distributor position has an ODPA like the attached pic?
101_2244.jpg


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Last edited:
So that looks like an 03 or 04 OPDA. While it may not have failed it may be out of position. But i would pull it and look fir signs of wear.
I will post up a video that I followed to replace mine. It covers aligning it. It’s worth a shot before checking the timing belt.
Following the video this should take 1/2hr or less


So this is more for the opda you have.



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Last edited:
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