WP Warrior Torque bars...

Joopin

Super Moderator
Has anyone had any experience with this product? I am in desperate need of a traction bar of some kind, I was going to make a "BamBar" style that mounts directly over the Diff, but I have no time to fab anything. I have been putting this off for a while and I keep breaking U-joints in the mean time. I was also looking at the Skyjacker 5th link system, but it's 300 bucks and I think it would hinder articulation on the drivers side.

This product is 150 bucks and "telescopes" when a pin is pulled. So what do you thing guys. Here's a pic...

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I found the product in quadratec but the only thing online was the warriors site... www.warriorproducts.com

Does Warrior make quality products? Thanks for any info.
Joop
 

I am still voting for the home made option, cause you could endlessly customize it, but...
Warrior make some pretty good protection products as well as fabricating products, I have never heard anything bad about them, But I have not seen this product in action. Why not be the test subject for Jeepz.com
 
Warrior makes good products, but you don't want those. First of all, you don't want your traction bar to telescope when in use. That pin should only be taken out when setting it up. If it telescopes while you are gassing on it, you will still break a u-joint. Second, with that square tube and poly bushings at each end, you will not be allowing for much articulation. When a wheel drops, you will only have as much flex as the bushing will compress. Eventually it will bend the bolt or split the bushing.
The thing to do is use a heim joint on each end or at least a heim on the lower end. There are plenty of people making laser cut tabs and brackets that cut down on the fab work. Look at www.bluetorchfab.com
I use 3/4" shank 5/8" hole chromoly heim joints on each end of mine. They are threaded in to a weld on boss that you weld to your DOM tubing. The brackets were already cut and drilled for a 5/8" bolt.
Most race shops have the heim joints for about $25 each and the bosses are $2-3. Then you will have to get some DOM and brackets.
Sam's Offroad sells prefabbed units with an inverted shackle mount for articulation. I think it still requires some welding for the brackets.
 
you make dom sound like the shiz. I'll use it to build a cage, but otherwise its the free stuff from work.

And Iam with John on this, Get you A$$ in the garage and build it.
Next thread I want to see is "look at this killer Setup I made"..
 

Okay, okay... I'll build one. I'm just sick of breakin U joints! And it's not only that but the end yoke tabs break along with it... If I do build one it will be one of these I think

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Should I still try to use the heim joints with this?

Oh and what exactly is DOM... I assume its a kind of steel?
Thanks for knockin some sense into me guys.
 
Ol' TJ off to the shop today!

I like that becouse its above the axle. Looks like the bolts take the place of a heim joint.

Not sure if its good, But IT LOOKS GOOD...
Never made any anti-wrap control.
 
yeah joop... i believe that is the style i'm goin with... using imagination and theory, it seems like it is the best way to go
 

DOM is a type of steel, to give you an idea of it's strength, it is what Nascar requires the frames and roll bars in the cars to be made of, so it is strong stuff!
 
Oh and what exactly is DOM... I assume its a kind of steel?

It's a manufacturing process. It stands for Drawn Over Mandrel. For Carbon Steel, the big deal about DOM is that it's guaranteed to be uniform and consistant, and the welds are inspected for strength. For a rollcage or chassis I'd use it......probably, it depended on what I was using the vehicle for. The marginal strength difference between DOM and the next step down in quality, which is Seamless Cold Drawn, is achieved because of that consistency and uniformity. They are both the same series (1026/1020), same manufacturing process(other than naturalizing), and they are both sized according to OD and ID. The DOM does have a better appearance and there is the slight strength increase, but I think the price is about 15-20% more for DOM.

As long as you didn't plan on slamming it into rocks as hard as you can, I'd personally "settle" for plain old buttwelded HRW for a traction bar.
 
To add to what Junkpile said:
DOM is also available in many different wall thicknesses. You can get a 3/4" ID with as much of an OD as you can afford. I have only seen HREW welded seam tubing in several thin wall sizes. My rollcage is made of weld seam, but not the traction bars. They need to be stout to handle the weight of the Jeep slamming them down on rocks. They will tend to get bent even with DOM if they are like mine, it can handle slight bends with the setup.
I like the idea behind the design above, but I question whether those tabs welded to the chunk will hold. THey look too thin and have no extra bracing. Plus you have to know how to weld to that cast center section or it will break off and you know what happens then. I like how the angle closely matches the driveshaft angle. I also question that upper mount. It almost appears to go to the body. Please tell me it ain't so.
 

The upper mount is welded to a cross member... ah I'll just give you the link.

http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/bambar/

I was thinking of changing some parts of the design, like using u-bolts instead of welding to cast. But other than that the design is great, and that link explains everything.

Joop
 
I think I saw another Jeep with that Warrior sytem the other day. It's hard to tell from the peices in the pic, but is it designed to bolt to the spring plate on one end then to the spring hanger on the other. If so it will work fine, just amy take some of the flex out of it.
It will actually sit above the springs and travel with them.
Got any pics of them in use?
 
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