1982 cj5 rebuild

beauchamp

New member
Just got cj5 to start on and am not the mechanic a lot of yall appear to be. want to do a lot of the work my self with my grandson. what would a fair price be for body removal.I would like to remove tub and front end and deliever to paint shop while i work on the rest.???
 

Welcome to Jeepz.com

Are you asking how much it would be to have someone take the body off and put it on the ground next to the frame, or to take it off and deliver it to a body shop to be finished? I'd bet that it would take a full day to do this for the average guy, so maybe $500. If you're willing to take off the flares, seats, seatbelts, etc I'm sure it would get cheaper. This whole process is really just a bunch of easy tasks that team up to be a good sized job.

I did this myself when I was in my 20s, and was surprised at how straight forward it was. You just have to unbolt everything from the old tub, unbolt (or cut off) the body mounts, and remove the dash (and I believe the steering column). The hardest part for me was lining up the three other guys to help lift the tub off and move it.
 
Yeah, taking the tub off shouldn't be very hard. Unhook all wires going through the firewall, fusebox harness(unplugs), speedo cable(unscrews off speedo), heater hoses, disconnect steering column on engine side of firewall, ect... anything attached to body and or engine, frame. either take off the trany cover or lift the body high enough to clear it. There are 11 body mount bolts including the one for the grill. You shouldn't have to remove the dash.
 
I am excited to get started. Jeep has 125k original miles, new engine, new clutch, power steerring booster and master clynder,and only one small rst spot. Thanks for replies Ill be back.
 

If you decide to do this yourself you should get a box of ziplock bags and as you remove the bolts, nuts, washers and shims put them in a bag with a label and or note where they came from and what they were for. Also take pictures as you take it appart so you will have a reference to guide you and help your memory. Go buy yourself several cans of Aerokroil or PB Blaster and start soaking all the nuts and bolts you plan on removing. If you haven't already, i would take it to a car wash and blast the underside and degrease the engine and transmission while it's still under it's own power. There are alot of great people on this forum willing to help you if you get stuck. Good luck with it.
 
Thanks good advice. Another off wall question . Can for get a shorter steering column . I have a tight fit getting in and out and it appears the seat can't go back due to the wheel well.
 
Thats a common problem on the 5s. I think the fix is the cut and flip the front of the wheel well and then weld it back in so you can move the seat back farther. Other wise, its just get a smaller steering wheel or put in a tilt column from an 80s Chevy vehicle
 

I cut the wheel well like Super J mentioned, I angled the wheel well to the same angle as the seat back. If I were you I would cut and test fit the seats where I wanted before welding it back up. Also put seats in that were thinner that would allow more space. The high backs seem thinner to me. I put in a late model corvette style Grant GT steering wheel, it was the smallest dia and flattest I could find.
 
starting to collect parts and getting excited. several friends have volunteered to help. Thanks for all the replies pictures coming soon.
 
have finaly got started and after a lot of research have decided to fix what is needed right now and enjoy it for s while before the off frame restoration.I will be following the other post watching theirs. .
 

Cool. We decided on the same thing for ours
 
the start of tearing up and out. the brake job has started and stopped until we replace the rear hub seal. belts and hoses for radiator removed. to do this had to remove alternator. Radiator on way to shop to be boiled out ,looks to be in ok shape. one radiator hose and one heater hose change sizes from one end to the other. Allof this is a learning experience for me. I am having fun
 

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You probably already know this, but when you do your rear hub, there is three phillips head screws holding your drums on, and a dust cap over the end of the axle shaft and hub nut. Take off the drum and dust cap, and loosen the axle nut, but leave the nut on the shaft to prevent the hub from flying across the room when it breaks free with the puller. There is a wood driff key between the hub and shaft, don't loose it.
 

really getting going Radiator was cored and painted
 

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doing lot of preventative maintence, all new hoses, belts, and brakes. where we ride is far from anything with no cell service. I have a lot more respect for mechanics and their prices after doing this little bit. to replace the heater hoses you have to remove the alternator completely.I dont know how anybody does this with a v8 engine.Sunday will finish brakes and go after vaccum problem,
 
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