Carter AFB throttle body repairs (formerly Timing 180* out)


Here's some better pics;

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With that I think the carburator's a more likely suspect.
 
That's the "thin film" of dielectric grease called for by the Jeep TSM (also the Ford TSM) I've been called out on the spark plug wires on another forum in that at the cap it's too bowed and may be causing a cross fire situation. What prompted me to change out the wires were the old ones were splitting along the shielding, on account of them being streched. Here's a pic of the original engine compartment from the EBay ad I bought this from.
Original+engine+compartment+2.JPG
 
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Turbogus said:
So, on another forum it's been called to my attention that given all the work on the carburator my issue must be with the distributor/spark plug wiring. Here's a few pics of what it looks like, any red flags?
<img src="http://www.jeepz.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21266"/> <img src="http://www.jeepz.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21267"/> <img src="http://www.jeepz.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21268"/>
Click to expand...


In these images the wire from the coil is running along other wires. You may want to rerouted so it doesn't lie alongside others and crossed at 90 degrees.
Here are TSB for another auto manufacturer:
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98.htm
 
When I looked at the wiring diagram in the TSM and the pic of the original engine compartment it seemed some of the wires were going to other than where they belonged;

Original+engine+compartment zoom on cap.jpg

I ran a resistance test with all of the spark plug wires and I happened to find spark plug wires 2 & 4 cross wired. Some damm gremlin must've switched 'em when I wasn't looking :roll:
 

The Ohms seemed to check out Wires for cyclinders;
1. 29" - 11,070
2. 32" - 11,580
3. 28" - 10,830
4. 34" - 11,420
5. 28" - 11,110
6. 41" - 13,360
7. 26" - 10,610
8. 43" - 13,780

So save for the two crossed wires it seems these all check out.
 
Sure did JPn, but the carb's still off of the motor. May hook it up again and try starting up again, it I'm not too burned out from work.
 
Well, last night I had a headlight failure on one side so when I came draggin' home in this normal deluge of rain and wind the PacNW is infamous for, I got the carburator mounted up and all the vacuum lines and fuel line hooked up. Also I rerouted the even bank of spark plugs over the top of the motor, and twisted up the distributor wires and sip tied them to stay that way. I'm hoping this'll get this substandard ignition working properly. May try a startup on Saturday so I'm not working in the dark (what with the PacNW overcast it gets dark pretty early)
 

Foggy here too. Drove 8 hrs in the fog today. My eyes are tired.
 
Okay, after taking care of the 2 & 4 plug wires and moving their location to over the intake manifold, and I finalized the carburator and finally a week later I started it up this morning and after getting fuel from the tank to the carb, it idled smooth and strong. No bucking or backfire and no smoke from the tailpipeIf thing work well tonight I'll set the timing and recheck the no. 1 spark plug.

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So what was causing your problem, Bad carb? glad you finally got it going :)
 
Went to check the base timing then dynamic (didn't get that far) and with the dampner mark on TDC the rotor was pointed at 6 o'clock. roughly at No. 3 terminal. I think I'm having to re-orient the distributor. At least it's idling though.

Edit: The initial problem was one sunken float and fuel leaking fromthe throttle shafts (both addressed) now I think I'm having to undo what I and my friend did to the ignition when were were chasing what we were directed to, which at one point was removaol of the distributor.
 
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So, Saturday I buttoned up the distributor and left all vacuum devices disconnected feeding from the carburator, plugging all of the ports as I went. Using the remote starter so I could see what's going on in the engine compartment, after two tries she started up! However I noticed fuel puddling on top of the Air horn on this AFB. I shut her down and mopped up the fuel drying the top so next try I could see where the fuel is coming from. Second go the fuel leak was from the accelerator pump shaft as it passes through the Air Horn at the point in this photo;
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I seperated the Air horn (once again) from the Throttle Body and all still looked pristene, clean and free of any debris. I took note however that the Accelerator pump shaft's Neoprene rubber grommet does not seem to fit the "Acelerator Pump Well" enough to keep backfeeding or fuel out of the top. This is a new Acelerator Pump that came with the Echlin rebuild kit. In my searches the two sizes listed are 13/16 inch for the neoproene and 11/16 inch for the leather. The original pump that came with this 1988 mfd. AFB seems to be made of rubber and doesn't seal at all given it's shrunken size over the years.
As the AFB's go this one isn't ancient, using the old leather pumps (which are smaller anyway) are there different sizes of the neoprene cups available?
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