Dana 44 bearing split and stuck in housing.

[joejeepny]

Hi everyone at Jeepz. Has anyone ever seen this before. The bearing split and is stuck in the 44 housing. How do you get it out. Any ideas appreciated.
Thanx

 

[808CJ7]

A slide hammer with a claw on the end should do the trick. The race doesn't take a lot of force to put in so it shouldn't be to hard to pull out. Not sure what you meant by the bearing split. Is the race cracked or did the bearing come apart?

 

[joejeepny]

A slide hammer with a claw on the end should do the trick. The race doesn't take a lot of force to put in so it shouldn't be to hard to pull out. Not sure what you meant by the bearing split. Is the race cracked or did the bearing come apart?

The bearing split.

 

[joejeepny]

A slide hammer with a claw on the end should do the trick. The race doesn't take a lot of force to put in so it shouldn't be to hard to pull out. Not sure what you meant by the bearing split. Is the race cracked or did the bearing come apart?

How does the claw work. Does it spread some how or do you work it along around the edge?

 

[joejeepny]

Oh , I see one online. You could attach three claws.

 

[808CJ7]

I take it the bearing is on the axle shaft where it should be and the race is in the housing as it should be so where's the split? There supposed to come apart right?

 

[joejeepny]

When you replace the bearing it comes as one part I thought. I didnt think they come apart.

 

[joejeepny]

So I do have to remove this piece.

 

[808CJ7]

Yes they come apart. The bearing is pressed onto the axle shaft and the race goes into the axle housing. If you look at your axle shaft there should be a seal there between the bearing and the retaining plate. The seal keeps the oil in your axle, the oil is what lubricates the bearing.

 

[joejeepny]

Yes the seal leaking is what started all of this. Pine Barrens Silt did it in. Pine barrens poured out of the axle houseing when I opened the diff cover.

 

[joejeepny]

So I once these are out the new ones will go in easy or they need to be pressed back in?

 

[808CJ7]

So I do have to remove this piece.

It depends. Why did you pull the axle out in the first place? Was the seal leaking, was there play in the axle before you took it out? If you find the bearing needs to be replaced, you'll need a press to replace the bearing on the shaft

 

[joejeepny]

The Jeep Dealer is pressing it back on for me. Then it should seat in the axle and just tighten the flange bolts or does it need to be pressed in.

Thanks for the help 808.

 

[808CJ7]

There's a tool that's made to fit against the race and you tap it in evenly to make sure it isn't cocked in the housing

 

[808CJ7]

Don't go cheap on the seals. I find skf and timken to work the best. Coating the bearings and seal surface with a quality assembly lube like royal purple is a good idea also. Aloha

 

[joejeepny]

There already was a great thread on this. I should have looked for it first. Here it is. http://www.jeepz.com/forum/cj-yj-tj-jk/34001-dana-44-rear-axle-bearing-seal-replacement.html

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

For what is worth, check to see if your old bearing race is square (seated evenly in axle housing flange) before you attempt to use a slide hammer to remove it. It may just be the angle of the picture you took, but it looks cocked (I said "Cocked" :rofl:.....) on the left of the photo. Removing it will be hard and may score the inside on the race seat without re-seating it squarely first. Just something to consider?????

 

[joejeepny]

For what is worth, check to see if your old bearing race is square (seated evenly in axle housing flange) before you attempt to use a slide hammer to remove it. It may just be the angle of the picture you took, but it looks cocked (I said "Cocked" :rofl:.....) on the left of the photo. Removing it will be hard and may score the inside on the race seat without re-seating it squarely first. Just something to consider?????

Yup it was cocked. Took some time to get it out carefully. It must have took a hard shot to get like that and start leaking. Shafts don't look bent but I am starting to think I should have spent the money for moly shafts .

 

[joejeepny]

For what is worth, check to see if your old bearing race is square (seated evenly in axle housing flange) before you attempt to use a slide hammer to remove it. It may just be the angle of the picture you took, but it looks cocked (I said "Cocked" :rofl:.....) on the left of the photo. Removing it will be hard and may score the inside on the race seat without re-seating it squarely first. Just something to consider?????

Yup it was cocked alright. It must have taken a tough shot to get like that. May e thats why it started leaking. The shafts don't seem bent but I am starting to think I should have sprung for new moly axles.

I hate when regret starts setting in on stuff like this. I have replaced Allot of stuff twice just to learn a lesson before. I hope this isn't one of those times.

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

Yup it was cocked alright. It must have taken a tough shot to get like that. May e thats why it started leaking. The shafts don't seem bent but I am starting to think I should have sprung for new moly axles.

I hate when regret starts setting in on stuff like this. I have replaced Allot of stuff twice just to learn a lesson before. I hope this isn't one of those times.

Well...... Ask yourself if you do a lot of hard wheeling? You said the axles look straight, right? The D44 has factory one piece axles that have a great reputation. Would after market axles prevented this? No.... Not likely. Bearings and seals wear. I would not beat myself up.

In fact, I replaced my bearings and seals earlier this year and I have after market axles. As one of the other members mentioned earlier, use quality replacement bearings.