Do throttle body spacers really work?


Cold air is denser, hence, it has more Oxygen molecules (which ecuates to more "usable" air). And the engine bay IS hot, so you want your air from OUTSIDE the engine bay. But again, the change in performance is not drastic...

As for changing the engine, it is cheaper still to just ad a supercharger with piggy back ECU than an engine swap. Engine swaps are expensive, time consuming, and a very involved project... Regearing is also expensive (at least $1,000 and on the cheap to have it proffessionally done on both axles). Also, keep in mind that one of the advantages of the 4 Banger is that it is light. It's not a bad engine either, if you gear it right and squeeze all the power out of it. It is reliable as heck!!!
they might be good for awhile till you start blowing seals and rings then you have to do a build so might as well do a stroker however if you put forged pistons in you can get away with a charger but thats tearin it down. and nitrous will also ruin your engine faster than stock gears are cheap if you do them yourself with the right help anyone can do them i know im a mechanic and done them before but if you find reading material and time or someone that has done them that will help anyone can they are pretty simple to do.
 
yup, whats the basic precision instruments for gears? you just need a dial indicator and stand and a c-mic? thats how i used to build the gearboxs for helicopter engines. they looked just like a dif but with no cover.
 
superj said:
yup, whats the basic precision instruments for gears? you just need a dial indicator and stand and a c-mic? thats how i used to build the gearboxs for helicopter engines. they looked just like a dif but with no cover.

And basic wrenches and pullers you dont even need a stand you can do it under the jeep and on a table or ground
 
A degree doesn't mean anything except the person was taught by people that couldn't hold a job in industry. They have to get out in the real world a few years to realize that.

The difference in temp between gathering the air inside the engine compartment like most supposed Cold Air Intakes and getting it outside, like on the hood or roof - is only a few degrees. The cold will allow slightly more fuel absorption, Yes, very slightly, but the PCM compensates for it.

To prove "swirling air" makes a huge difference, just try driving it on a windy day. Look at your girlfriend's hair - you must be going faster, her hair is blown all over.

But you guys have given me a money making idea - just based on the statements here I'll make millions.

I'm going to pre-swirl freezing cold air directly out of my refrigerator , then bottle it up in gallon sized bottles. Than all you do it add some to your intake - you'll have swirling air and cold air - all at the same time!

Thanks - I'll start my marketing by focusing on people with degrees, they'll jump at it.

Thinking I'll start the price out at $75 for the complete kit, $19.95 for a refill of pre-swirled cold air. Add $10.00 for a "Hi-Performance" mixture - 100 MPH swirling and sub Zero degree air.

I'll order my custom built yacht in the morning.
 

There was a dyno test done by a guy in the street who had a friend with a Dyno. He tested a Jep 4 banger stock, with 4.0L TB, with 4.0L TB and Helix spacer, and with a 4.0L TB and smooth spacer (same one as before, but smoother out). The best torque came with with e4.0L TB and smooth spacer, but the increase was not HUGE.

When it comes to a single mod like this, it is unrealistic to say that one single mod (other than regearing) will be a night and day difference, but when you ad many mods, you can feel the difference. So, will a TB spacer work? It can, depending on the spacer. Will it give you a bit of more ussable torque? It can... Will you feel this torque difference? Probably not.

Any real data to be taken on any mod has to be done with several run comparison and after the engine PCM has a chance to adjust.

On injected engines TBS do noting. Less restriction does. However don't expect huge gains in HP.
 
retired said:
A degree doesn't mean anything except the person was taught by people that couldn't hold a job in industry. They have to get out in the real world a few years to realize that.

The difference in temp between gathering the air inside the engine compartment like most supposed Cold Air Intakes and getting it outside, like on the hood or roof - is only a few degrees. The cold will allow slightly more fuel absorption, Yes, very slightly, but the PCM compensates for it.

To prove "swirling air" makes a huge difference, just try driving it on a windy day. Look at your girlfriend's hair - you must be going faster, her hair is blown all over.

But you guys have given me a money making idea - just based on the statements here I'll make millions.

I'm going to pre-swirl freezing cold air directly out of my refrigerator , then bottle it up in gallon sized bottles. Than all you do it add some to your intake - you'll have swirling air and cold air - all at the same time!

Thanks - I'll start my marketing by focusing on people with degrees, they'll jump at it.

Thinking I'll start the price out at $75 for the complete kit, $19.95 for a refill of pre-swirled cold air. Add $10.00 for a "Hi-Performance" mixture - 100 MPH swirling and sub Zero degree air.

I'll order my custom built yacht in the morning.

Wow first cold air makes a huge difference you can actually feel first in diesels ever heard an aftercooler well its to cool air down and back in the 70s they added them on and gained bout 50 hp so theres some proof and the only reason you guys think k&n is better is cause they opened up the pores to allow air flow more which also allows dirt and junk in as well anyways thats a pretty stupid assumption to think that about mechanics that you think they cant make it in the real world and we are all stupid my teach was in it for 30 years then came to teach causevhis body was shutin down all we are doin is tryin to help people not waste money on stuff that really doesnt help
 
Wow what a difference, I yesterday just did the 4.0L Throttle body swap and let me tell you what a great addition to my TBS and cold air intake and every thing else. Zoom Zoom. Instant throttle response, smooth, reaching higher speeds quicker. I can do 80 MPH on Highway and hold 70 up hill with a head wind. And off the line take off is rapid smooth, instant. Of course that with all my other mods. Accel coil, accel wires, NGK plugs gapped at .037, insulated air tube, cold air intake, GSP power spacer, magna flow exaust, and keeping wieght down where I can. Next mod would be a Flex a Lite electric fan. I think I am going to put a 2.5L sticker back on my angry 4 Banger. These squirrels are furious.
 

The throttle response of a stock 4.0L throttle body is nothing compared to a 62mm throttle body. Take a look into the throttle body and slowly open the throttle, paying close attention to when air can get past the throttle plate. The taper beneath the throttle plate requires a lot of throttle movement before air gets to the engine.
 
The throttle response of a stock 4.0L throttle body is nothing compared to a 62mm throttle body. Take a look into the throttle body and slowly open the throttle, paying close attention to when air can get past the throttle plate. The taper beneath the throttle plate requires a lot of throttle movement before air gets to the engine.

Yeah I did notice that taper just under the throttle plate. My concern is if I remove it will I loose torque. I sure like the way it feels now, and I do not want to regret it. Do you think I will loose torque? Its only a 2.5L
 
What makes you think you'll lose torque?

I have no performance numbers to say either way. I run the 62mm TB on my 2.5L for the max airflow and lightning quick throttle response.
 

What makes you think you'll lose torque?

I have no performance numbers to say either way. I run the 62mm TB on my 2.5L for the max airflow and lightning quick throttle response.

I have heard storys that you can loose torque at higher RPMs, how does your jeep respond on freeway. Does your speed still climb upward lets say if you are doing 60MPH. Right now my jeep does take off alot faster and gets up to 70MPH with no problem. If I hit a headwind along with going up hill I can hold 65MPH, then when I run on level road again she climbs to 70mph and I feel a slight torque when I press the pedal. Thats what I am concerned of loosing.
 
I also run a 62mm TB. Let me start by saying bounty is right; response is MUCH quicker with the 62mm TB. Also, at what RPM's do you run while cruising? Typically, 3K or less... So is loosing horse power (which is what you get at high RPM's) really a concern? In the case of a Jeep, you want LOW end torque, as your engine will stay below 3K RPM 80% of the time (and you only get past that right before you shift). But to be honest, i did not feel any loss of torque at the high end (I felt more change in the RPM range when i did my cam).
 
A degree doesn't mean anything except the person was taught by people that couldn't hold a job in industry. They have to get out in the real world a few years to realize that.

The difference in temp between gathering the air inside the engine compartment like most supposed Cold Air Intakes and getting it outside, like on the hood or roof - is only a few degrees. The cold will allow slightly more fuel absorption, Yes, very slightly, but the PCM compensates for it.

To prove "swirling air" makes a huge difference, just try driving it on a windy day. Look at your girlfriend's hair - you must be going faster, her hair is blown all over.

But you guys have given me a money making idea - just based on the statements here I'll make millions.

I'm going to pre-swirl freezing cold air directly out of my refrigerator , then bottle it up in gallon sized bottles. Than all you do it add some to your intake - you'll have swirling air and cold air - all at the same time!

Thanks - I'll start my marketing by focusing on people with degrees, they'll jump at it.

Thinking I'll start the price out at $75 for the complete kit, $19.95 for a refill of pre-swirled cold air. Add $10.00 for a "Hi-Performance" mixture - 100 MPH swirling and sub Zero degree air.

I'll order my custom built yacht in the morning.

Maybe in your career field, the instructors couldn't make it but in aviation, instructors are experienced mechanics.
 

I also run a 62mm TB. Let me start by saying bounty is right; response is MUCH quicker with the 62mm TB. Also, at what RPM's do you run while cruising? Typically, 3K or less... So is loosing horse power (which is what you get at high RPM's) really a concern? In the case of a Jeep, you want LOW end torque, as your engine will stay below 3K RPM 80% of the time (and you only get past that right before you shift). But to be honest, i did not feel any loss of torque at the high end (I felt more change in the RPM range when i did my cam).

While cruising at those speeds of 75, 80mph my RPMs are at 3,000. I guess I am gonna bore out that edge just below the throttle plate.
 
Be careful you don't get into the bore where the throttle plate rests or you will have a high idle that the IAC can not adjust for.
 
Be careful you don't get into the bore where the throttle plate rests or you will have a high idle that the IAC can not adjust for.

Thanks Bounty Hunter I will stay away from the throttle plate just a bit. Do I bore out the top side also or just the bottom? I was gonna get a TB from you, but this one kinda just fell in my lap for little to nothing. Thanks
 

You can tell what all the education has done for the pseudo engineers like Jeepkid - just look the grammar and spelling.


Anybody smart enough to measure the air temps before and after adding a CAI?

A CAI is entirely different than an intercooler - I'm shocked that these pseudo engineers don't even know that.

I'm still waiting for someone to explain how the spacer mixes the fuel better when there isn't any fuel.
 
You can tell what all the education has done for the pseudo engineers like Jeepkid - just look the grammar and spelling.


Anybody smart enough to measure the air temps before and after adding a CAI?

A CAI is entirely different than an intercooler - I'm shocked that these pseudo engineers don't even know that.

I'm still waiting for someone to explain how the spacer mixes the fuel better when there isn't any fuel.
Let's not argue our point by belittling somebody's grammar and spelling but by stating our opinions and facts.

And without searching back through this thread, was it claimed that the air/fuel mixing is improved by adding the spacer?
 
Back
Top