SYE Install questions

[jfrabat]

OK, guys, I need your help; I just opened up my SYE kit (which, by the way, I ordered a PORC kit, and I received an Advanced Adapters kit, which is great!), and the installation instructions seem to make this install one complicated procedure...

Now, I have never assambled or disassambled a trasfer case, and half the parts they mention, I have no clue as to what they are... So, my questions are:

1) THE MOST IMPORTANT ONE: SHOULD I TRY TO DO THIS MYSELF???

If so...

2. Is this something I can do in a weekend? Keep in mind I have never done anything like this...

3. Will I be able to take out the yoke nut if I do not have an impact wrench?

4. How do I take out the Drive Sprocket Needle Bearings?

5. What lubricant should I use? They mention in some parts to pre-lubricate, and then to "fill with recommended ATF". Which pre-lube and ATF should I use?

6. What should I clean components with?

7. It mentiones that I do not need to disassamble the complete transfer case "unless you find foreign material inside ussually caused by a worn or stretched drive chain. You will need to be the judge." However, since this is the first transfer case I will see from the inside, I doubt I will be a very good judge here; what should I look for?

8. What are (pictures will help here!):

• The Speed-O-Drive? Is this where the speedo gear goes into?
• A yoke puller?
• The selector lever
• Output Shaft Boot
• Harmonic damper
• The oil pump pickup tube
• Drive Sprocket Needle Bearings

Your help is very much appreciated!!!!

Felipe

 

[yjdave]

Yes, quite easy. takes bout 2-3 hrs. Extra set of hands would help. Will need VERY good snap ring pullers. use atf. impact will help.

 

[cewtwo]

I remember being spotted over the Rock Garden on Chinaman's Gulch near Buena Vista, Colorado. I was getting in deeper and deepr on a large rock when I heard a lound but abrupt, "Ting!" I got out and looked under and the rear drive shaft had shattered at the rear U-Joint! I was able to back it out using front wheel drive, but it was still an experience trying to drive out to the highway using front wheel drive. A lot of winching later and I was out. We limped back to Denver at about 40 MPH. Ah, What the heck, I wanted to switch to a SYE anyway...

My install went fairly easily. I did have to go to 4X4 Parts at one point to confirm how the speedometer connector went on, but overall it was fairly easy (just like the instructions said - It seemed like it couldn't possibly work but it does). As you take it apart, the instruction set matched the parts I was holding in my hands and it became easier at that point. The snap ring pliers was important. I got mine at Harbor Freight and they worked great. The second set of hands should be matched with a second set of eyes. Figuring out how to remove some of the snap rings was difficult. It helps if the second person sees 3 dimensionally. Aside from that, it took me 6 hours or so, but I am not mechanically inclined!

Keep your drive shaft lubed. Check it regularly. I didn't want a Tom Woods, so I had mine custom built.

I'll check the pictures that I took to see if I can help you out with that...

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

You can do it, just take your time.

You don't have a harmonic damper, those are on newer TJ's.

The drive sprocket needle bearings are easy to remove. Set the drive sprocket on something sturdy so nothing is below the caged needle bearings. Drive the needle bearings out with a brass drift (punch) by striking on alternating sides of the bearings.

You may be able to get the front yoke nut off without an impact, just have a helper hold the yoke with a pipe wrench and use a cheater bar to help back off the yoke nut.

Use ATF as assembly lube when you slip on the drive sprocket and anything else that may be dry. Clean all RTV off the case halves and where the tailshaft housing bolts up to the rear case half.

And finally, post up here if you have any problems or want a second opinion as you're going through it.

 

[cewtwo]

This is a video on the web that was very helpful during my install.

http://www.crgrissom.com/jeep/SYE.wmv

If you have a 231J you will need to knock the roller bearings off the gears or it won't go on correctly. In other words, if the new main shaft will not fit the existing gears, the roller bearings are the reason. They can be removed safely as the new main shaft has oil ports the old main shaft didn't have.

Torque those yokes! 150 foot/ponds - Hard to do but do it.

 

[jfrabat]

You can do it, just take your time.

After seeing the video, and hearing the comments, I decided to take a crack at it. I'll start work on the 4th of July on the suspension, and then on the weekend after that, I'll tackle the drive train...

You don't have a harmonic damper, those are on newer TJ's.

Good to know that!

The drive sprocket needle bearings are easy to remove. Set the drive sprocket on something sturdy so nothing is below the caged needle bearings. Drive the needle bearings out with a brass drift (punch) by striking on alternating sides of the bearings.

OK; brass punch; something else i need to get!

You may be able to get the front yoke nut off without an impact, just have a helper hold the yoke with a pipe wrench and use a cheater bar to help back off the yoke nut.

The helper part may be a little difficult... The wife USED to be the helper, but now she's pregnant, so she can lend me a pair of eyes, but it is strictly hands off! I'll have to figure out a way...

Use ATF as assembly lube when you slip on the drive sprocket and anything else that may be dry. Clean all RTV off the case halves and where the tailshaft housing bolts up to the rear case half.

Thanks; Any recommendations, or they are all pretty much the same (talking about the branded ones, by the way)?

This is a video on the web that was very helpful during my install.

http://www.crgrissom.com/jeep/SYE.wmv

THAT WAS GREAT HELP!!!! THANKS!!!

If you have a 231J you will need to knock the roller bearings off the gears or it won't go on correctly. In other words, if the new main shaft will not fit the existing gears, the roller bearings are the reason. They can be removed safely as the new main shaft has oil ports the old main shaft didn't have.

Thanks for the heads up!

Torque those yokes! 150 foot/ponds - Hard to do but do it.

I do have my torque wrench ready!!! Mine is a one of those with the mid- to long-sized handle, so it is great for this kind of work (not so good for the small stuff, though!).

And finally, post up here if you have any problems or want a second opinion as you're going through it..

Felipe

 

[cewtwo]

I'm glad that you liked the video. I contacted the author after my install thanking him for doing it. He said that he did it three years ago or so and didn't even think it was still on the web.

I downloaded it to my computer and every time this non-mechanical type guy got frustrated or something seemed too complicated I'd watch that part of the video again and again. It really helped me out.

Good luck on the install.

BTW - I did not remove the transfer case when I did the install... Furthermore, since an RV is parked in the driveway, I did the install in the front of the house on the street!

 

[jfrabat]

Thanks again, C2; it really helped build my courage for doing this myself. I already cleaned the agrage a bit (will finish either today or tomorrow), and will get started on the 4th of July (I got prior commitments this weekend, so I cannot work on the rig).

Felipe

 

[currupt4130]

Felipe, get snap ring pliers that are duck billed for external snap rings. Do not get the ones that have points on them for internal snap rings or the ones with points for external snap rings. DUCK BILLED snap ring pliers. The 231 is a pretty easy case to work on. I've rebuilt one on the trail once before, that was fun. If you don't have air, a big breaker bar will do the trick. You need a socket to remove the drain plugs, I think it's 1 3/16" but do not quote me on that. I think 30mm is the correct size actually. The yoke nut is like an 1 1/8 socket I think, and like someone else said, tighten the hell out of it. Really, in all honesty everything just kind of slides right out, you slide the new stuff on, and voila. I've done it plenty of times without even taking off the front yoke to pull the front output by just sliding the whole mainshaft out.

Here's how I approach an SYE.
Take off the tail cone
Take off the snap ring
Take off speedo
Take off the next cone
Next snap ring
Take off the cover (be careful with the oil pump)
Slide out the main shaft (be careful with the plastic pieces on the shift forks, you must have them),
Take all pieces off main shaft and stack up
Grab the selector hub (will have a gold syncro and the main part is grey),
Remove bearings
Reassamble case following directions for new tail cone/speedo assembly/yoke gasket

 

[jfrabat]

Corrupt,

Thanks for the feedback.

Felipe, get snap ring pliers that are duck billed for external snap rings. Do not get the ones that have points on them for internal snap rings or the ones with points for external snap rings. DUCK BILLED snap ring pliers.

I got some that have interchangeable tips, and it has 4 different tips (for inner and outer rings, and two that I dont know what they are for). I figured since everyone agrees that taking the snap ring is hard, having the option of the tips may simplify things a bit!). I bought them at Advanced Autoparts, and I have not opened them yet, so I guess i could exchange them still... Are these any good?

The 231 is a pretty easy case to work on. I've rebuilt one on the trail once before, that was fun. If you don't have air, a big breaker bar will do the trick. You need a socket to remove the drain plugs, I think it's 1 3/16" but do not quote me on that. I think 30mm is the correct size actually. The yoke nut is like an 1 1/8 socket I think, and like someone else said, tighten the hell out of it.

I think the yoke one is 1 1/4 (according to the manuals, anyway), so I already bought that one, and a torque wrench that goes up to 150 ft/lbs to tighten it up. As for the other plugs, I'm pretty sure I will have the sockets, as I have both metric and SAE sizes available for that kind of sizes. I'll check for correct size when i get started on the job (dont wanna damage the plug!).

Really, in all honesty everything just kind of slides right out, you slide the new stuff on, and voila.

That's what I saw on the video, which is why I decided to go ahead and do it...

Thanks guys!

Felipe

 

[jfrabat]

I'll check the pictures that I took to see if I can help you out with that...

C2, did you ever find those pictures?

 

[cewtwo]

After a friend of mine clued me in to the video, I don't think I took many pictures. I'll check tonight and see what I did take.

How is it going so far, Felipe?

Corrupt is correct. We had the snap ring pliers and had to get inventive when we needed the duck bill pliers. We got it done, though.

 

[jfrabat]

Well, I tried for a couple of hours with the snap ring pliers I had to no avail, so I ordered new ones. I am in Peru until Friday, so I'll give it another shot Saturday with the new pliers... The new ones open up to 6.5", so it should be enough to remove the ring!

 

[currupt4130]

You just need to be able to open it up enough to get it out of the groove, then slide it down the shaft. If you open it enough to take it straight off the shaft you're probably ruined it. You need pliers with duck billed ends.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Like Corrupt said, you don't have to open the lockring very far.

You need lockring pliers, not snapring pliers. They have knurled flat ends similar to a duckbill. I picked up a pair of Craftsman for about $20 or so.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...ertical=TOOL&subcat=Pliers&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

Sears item #00999949000

 

[cewtwo]

I did use my snap ring plier set. As the others have said, you don't have to open the lockring very far. There were two of us and we succeeded in removing it. It did take some innovative moves. Oh yeah! Some yelling at each other also!

 

[jfrabat]

You just need to be able to open it up enough to get it out of the groove, then slide it down the shaft. If you open it enough to take it straight off the shaft you're probably ruined it. You need pliers with duck billed ends.

Like Corrupt said, you don't have to open the lockring very far.

You need lockring pliers, not snapring pliers. They have knurled flat ends similar to a duckbill. I picked up a pair of Craftsman for about $20 or so.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...ertical=TOOL&subcat=Pliers&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

Sears item #00999949000

Once again, you guys were right. The pliers I had ordered were HUGE! So I am sending them back. But I did go to sears and grabbed a pair of the above mentioned pliers, and got the ring out in less than 30 seconds!!!

Anyway, I will get going probably tonight, so that I can finish everything up by tomorrow.

Felipe

 

[jfrabat]

Well, everything is put together now; tomorrow I just got to torque all the U-Joint bolts, and get the skidplate back in place, and I am done with the drivetrain! After that, I need to get the dropped Pitman arm in place, and finish installing the swaybar discos (I already ordered the new bolts from the stelareship).

But 2 questions; the woody shaft comes fully retracted, but I needed to take it out some for it to fit correctly (I would say about 2 or 3 inches). I imagine this is normal (so there is some play in the yoke for when the suspension compresses), but can anyone verify this? I will call Tom Woods tomorrow anyway, but just in case if anyone knows about this, let me know...

Felipe

 

[currupt4130]

Yes Felipe, this is correct. The slip for the driveshaft is now in the middle, and it comes fully compressed so that he doesn't have to ship two separate pieces. No need to call Tom over that.

 

[jfrabat]

OK, thanks, Corrupt; I imagined that much, but just wanted to make sure (better safe than sorry!). By the way, everything is one right now, and I am just waiting for my wife to arrive with my Speedo O ring to finish everything up. But I do have one more question; I installed the 4* shims that came with the lift kit (and yes, I did place the thick part towards the front), but I still need more angle for the diff to point to the TC (I got a slight angle still). I will take a picture, and use AutoCAD to calculate the exact angle, but can anyone recommend a good place to get these shims?

Oh, and by the way, the Pitman arm, I will need to get it done, beause there is no way I could get my 1 1/4 drive into the nut. It's just a tiny little bit too small, so I will take it to a car shop near by to get that and the brake line extensions in place.

Felipe