1. No start on The Old 96er

    '96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.

    So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.

    Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.

    Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?

    All ears

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Dayton Ohio Area

    No start on The Old 96er

    First thing Id do is clean the other ends of the grounds and power. The battery, being new, should be good but the connector or wires themselves could be bad.
    Off 12.6V
    Running 14.4V
    During start the battery should not drop below 10V
    Run accessories off the PDC terminals not the battery.

    Your 1/2 power light sounds like a power ground issue.

    You could measure resistance of your power and ground wires with no battery. Anything over 2ohms is an issue.

    Never look down on anyone unless you are helping them up - Jesse Jackson
    Last edited by JPNinPA; 11-11-2020 at 06:06 AM.
    "Never look down on anybody unless you're helping him up" - Jesse Jackson

  3. #3

    Re: No start on The Old 96er

    Thanks for the very specific numbers. Along with your suggestions I'll check batt ground to engine, and then all connections between batt and starter. After that I'll test the starter by bridging directly from pos batt terminal to starter and see if I can get it to turn.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Dayton Ohio Area

    Re: No start on The Old 96er

    You could have tour starter tested.
    By slow start I was assuming the starter was barely turning the engine. This isnt a turns fast but cranking a long time. Is it?

    Thing that is odd to me is your mote the new battery reads 12.7 engine off. Is that just after turning it off?

    Never look down on anyone unless you are helping them up - Jesse Jackson
    "Never look down on anybody unless you're helping him up" - Jesse Jackson

  5. #5

    Re: No start on The Old 96er

    Ok good didn't know these car shops could test starters. If I get to the point where I take it off I'll get it to Advanced as I really don't trust the oreileys or zone stores around here.

    The batt read 12.68 V at the terminals about 5 mins after I turned it off during my errand where it wouldn't restart. Happened to have my multimeter with me since I was already trying to troubleshoot. Does that sound normal or no?

  6. #6

    Re: No start on The Old 96er

    a bad battery can show full voltage, it needs to be load tested. most parts stores will do that for free

  7. #7

    Re: No start on The Old 96er

    Turns out I've got a problem starter. Cleaned both batt terminals and engine ground and got nothing. Tapped the starter a few times and it fired right up. So what kind of starter should I look for? Want something decent with a warranty but not too expensive. Do most people just go for something like an Ultra from Oreiley's with the lifetime? I've got a 70$ credit at Napa so I was thinking maybe one of their reman Bosch around $120.

  8. #8

    Re: No start on The Old 96er

    with the exception of a merc my wife used to have i've had good service out of autozone lifetime starters

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