I want lockers!

[luis]

I have 97 tj with the 2.5. Stock gearing and stock axles. I wana instal lockers but don't know of I should wait till I regear to 4.88. Which should I look into? I want it to be selectable as my tj is my dd aswell I do wana get into some more technical stuff. Planning on doing the crown king run here in az

 

[LGR]

I'd wait and do them both at the same time so you won't have to open it up and pretty much do the same job twice. I hear good things about the electric lockers for selectable ones. I had OX lockers in my old TJ and really liked them.

 

[luis]

I'd wait and do them both at the same time so you won't have to open it up and pretty much do the same job twice. I hear good things about the electric lockers for selectable ones. I had OX lockers in my old TJ and really liked them.

Will any locker work with my stock gearing and the 4.88 or will I need a different set of lockers? Will the stock axles take the load?

 

[Utah_jeepster]

Will any locker work with my stock gearing and the 4.88 or will I need a different set of lockers? Will the stock axles take the load?

Not sure what your gearing is now, but give me a sec to explain a few things first.
Lockers or any traction adding device is mainly the carrier part of your differential. They come in auto (Detroit locker) Electric (E Lockers) Cable (OX) and Air (ARB), and yes there quite a few more manufactures out there that I didn't mention.

In a dana 30,35, and a 44 there is two different carrier offsets. This off set is for different gear ratios, 3:11-3:96 and one that fits 4:10-4:88.
So depending on what gear ratio your stock axles have and what you want to run in the end its best to buy the carrier and new gears at the same time.

Now also stock axles are set with a factory spline count a Dana 30 is 27 spline and a Dana 35 is 30 (? not sure here), and a stock Dana 44 is 30 spline, you can buy upgraded axles with 30 spline fronts and 33 rears, but they will not work with your factory carrier.
Stock axles are strong enough to take most lockers with mild driving off road. Tire size and skinny pedal usage here plays a big role here. Axle type is another long subject...as is locker types. And there are arguments pro and con for every selection along this path.

 

[jps4jeep]

D35 is 27 spline.

I would not invest into a locker for stock gears if your gonna re-gear. I would also not invest in a selectable locker for the D35 unless you also upgrade the shafts and never go larger than a 33" tire; still be weary that the bearing race on the D35 is the weak point on the pinion, unless you cryo treat the gears, which will only net about 5-10% increase in strength, is the only possible upgrade.

 

[luis]

Not sure what your gearing is now, but give me a sec to explain a few things first.
Lockers or any traction adding device is mainly the carrier part of your differential. They come in auto (Detroit locker) Electric (E Lockers) Cable (OX) and Air (ARB), and yes there quite a few more manufactures out there that I didn't mention.

In a dana 30,35, and a 44 there is two different carrier offsets. This off set is for different gear ratios, 3:11-3:96 and one that fits 4:10-4:88.
So depending on what gear ratio your stock axles have and what you want to run in the end its best to buy the carrier and new gears at the same time.

Now also stock axles are set with a factory spline count a Dana 30 is 27 spline and a Dana 35 is 30 (? not sure here), and a stock Dana 44 is 30 spline, you can buy upgraded axles with 30 spline fronts and 33 rears, but they will not work with your factory carrier.
Stock axles are strong enough to take most lockers with mild driving off road. Tire size and skinny pedal usage here plays a big role here. Axle type is another long subject...as is locker types. And there are arguments pro and con for every selection along this path.

My stock gearing now is 4.10. I'm also planing to upgrade the shafts in front and rear and adding some external axle supports to protect from bending

 

[Jeepergeo]

Do both at the same time. The re-gear on their own is must less expensive than the lockers, so just opening the differential up for re-gear means wasted money.

The Eaton E-Lockers are great. The electrical control as opposed to air control is very simple and reliable. Open when off, fully locked with actuated. Front and rear selectable.

Going to 4.88 is a big step, so I assume you're gonna put some tall wheels and tires on there too. You might want to check out what you'll be taching with 4.88 and your existing and planned tire and wheel set up to make sure you're ok with the new RPMs.

 

[MY95YJ]

4.88's with 33's and a 2.5 is just about perfect I ran that setup on the street for a couple of yrs and loved it. You'll get 5th back and you'll be able to keep up on the hills again

-James

 

[luis]

Do both at the same time. The re-gear on their own is must less expensive than the lockers, so just opening the differential up for re-gear means wasted money.

The Eaton E-Lockers are great. The electrical control as opposed to air control is very simple and reliable. Open when off, fully locked with actuated. Front and rear selectable.

Going to 4.88 is a big step, so I assume you're gonna put some tall wheels and tires on there too. You might want to check out what you'll be taching with 4.88 and your existing and planned tire and wheel set up to make sure you're ok with the new RPMs.

Right now I'm running 31's with the stock gearing. Soon I will be be getting bigger and wider tires like 33's right now I'm ok with the gearing but I know with the bigger tires I loose 5th. So regearing will happen sometime I was just figuring if it would be smarter to do both the at same time or just one at a time

 

[Utah_jeepster]

Right now I'm running 31's with the stock gearing. Soon I will be be getting bigger and wider tires like 33's right now I'm ok with the gearing but I know with the bigger tires I loose 5th. So regearing will happen sometime I was just figuring if it would be smarter to do both the at same time or just one at a time

Luis, I did mine in steps, I couldnt afford to do both lockers at once, so I regeared and installed the locker in the rear axle, pulling the front drive line just in case I had a stupid moment, then did the front a month later.
So you can do them in steps, you just loose 4 wheel drive.

 

[azyjjk]

My Dana 35 failed in my 92 YJ with the original 29" tires. Thats when I lifted 4" and put in a Dana 44 with a Detroit, 4.56 gears and 33x12.5 BFG AT's. That was in 1998. Have a LockRight in the front Dana 30 (maybe 1995) and that has been great too. The 33's and 4.56 is geared lower than when it was stock. I don't think I would want 4.88's.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

The 33's and 4.56 is geared lower than when it was stock. I don't think I would want 4.88's.

Tough to make a blanket statement like that without taking into consideration which motor and transmission you're both running. 4.56 may be ideal or low for your drivetrain, but for a 2.5L 5spd the recommended 4.88 gears for 33" tires is as ideal as it gets with the stock axles.

 

[jfrabat]

My Dana 35 failed in my 92 YJ with the original 29" tires. Thats when I lifted 4" and put in a Dana 44 with a Detroit, 4.56 gears and 33x12.5 BFG AT's. That was in 1998. Have a LockRight in the front Dana 30 (maybe 1995) and that has been great too. The 33's and 4.56 is geared lower than when it was stock. I don't think I would want 4.88's.

Like bounty said, depends on the transmission. I run the 5spd, 4.88 (with ARB, by the way, since we are talking also about lockers) and 33's, and, to be perfectly honest, wish I could go to 5.13.

I used to run 4.88 and 31's, and the ratio was perfect for me. Keep in mind, the 4banger can be run at 3~3.5K all day long, and this is where you get the best torque (read, better fuel economy and most power) from that engine.

Of course, with an auto, it all changes...

Now, regarding the OP, I would not do gears and lockers separate. You will pay for the same labor twice. Also, what was mentioned about the D35 with lockers is a good point; the stock axles are 27 spline, and if you are planning to put a locker, you can upgrade to a 31 spline (or was it 30?) alloy axle. Of course, the axle tubes on the D35 are another weak point, so this is where you must evaluate other options (like a Ford 8.8 or a D44) and see what is best for you... I went with the alloy axles (31 spline), but I do not plan to go higher than 33" tires, and there ARE other options out there that you should evaluate...

Felipe

 

[azyjjk]

Tough to make a blanket statement like that without taking into consideration which motor and transmission you're both running. 4.56 may be ideal or low for your drivetrain, but for a 2.5L 5spd the recommended 4.88 gears for 33" tires is as ideal as it gets with the stock axles.

You are right, I should have mentioned that I have a 4.0 with the X-15 manual.

 

[jfrabat]

You are right, I should have mentioned that I have a 4.0 with the X-15 manual.

You mean AX-5, right? The AX-15 came with the I6, so unless you swapped it, you have the AX-5... And in that case, and my opinion, with the 2.5L and AX-5, the ideal gear ratio for 33's is 5.13 and for 31's is 4.88 (different from what most charts tell you, but based on REAL life experience).

 

[luis]

I will think about this heavily. I heard a lot about chromly shafts and maybe go that direction and and do everything at once ( hopefully my tax return will be big enough to cover it all)

 

[jfrabat]

I will think about this heavily. I heard a lot about chromly shafts and maybe go that direction and and do everything at once ( hopefully my tax return will be big enough to cover it all)

That'shat I did; but evaluate the Ford 8.8 option before you decide... At the very least, it is worth a look.

 

[Josaff]

I would say for what you are going to spend, you could find a good deal on a set of factory locked 44s from a rubicon and live with the 4:10 gearing until you can sink more into them. They would bolt right in, and you could most likely get the compressors with them, just a thought.

 

[luis]

I would say for what you are going to spend, you could find a good deal on a set of factory locked 44s from a rubicon and live with the 4:10 gearing until you can sink more into them. They would bolt right in, and you could most likely get the compressors with them, just a thought.

Will I have to do any welding to do that? I wana keep my coil over springs?

 

[luis]

I was looking online and jeep came out with upgraded axles for the jeep tj that closely match the axles in the jk rubicon. Bolts up to the tj suspension. It even has lockers! Seems like a hood idea