plow information

rremr1964

New member
Hi, all! Question: I`m looking for a plow for my YJ. First, what`s a fair price for a complete 5-6`power angle (permanent-frame style) used? Second, I`d like to put a 2" lift on the yj, but will it mess with the plow frame geometry and make the jeep less effective in pushing snow? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. JB
 

Most used plows I see run around $300-$500 in my area.Which You are not too far from.I dont think a 2" lift would affect the way the plow works.If all you want is 2" of lift look into some spring helpers.It will give close to the lift you want and beef of the spring pack some for the extra weight you will be adding.
 
xt will know your local prices much better than I will. Around $500+ around here is what a little plow goes for especially this time of the year. Also look into what brand is popular and has the best after sale service in your area. I know in the Erie, PA area Blizzard plows are well known. Western are popular in the midwest and Meyer in the NE. Most plow mfg. have a spec for how level the "a-frame" needs to be, it is a fairly narrow margin IIRC within 1" of being level.
 
I have had meyers in the past and always liked them.The cost will also be affected by what is on the plow.Like hydrolic turning.

What engine do you have?
4 banger I would go with a 5' plow
6 or 8 cylinder should handle a 6'

Currently I use my father in laws willys with a 5' plow
Only thing I dont like is to turn the blade you have to get out and pull the pin turn and put the pin back in.4 banger engine with chains and loaded tires.Never had a problem with pushing the snow.Power steering would be helpful..lol
 

having both a lift and a plow is not the best move, not so much with the effectiveness of the plow, but it is with the geometry. If you only doing your driveway it should not be an issue, but the problem is, the frame plates on plows are designed to have the hitting force of the plow and snow to transfer that force in a parralell manner through out the frame. once you lift the vehicle, 2" suspension, possibly another 1" of tire, that force is no longer being exerted alone the length of the frame, instead is it applied at an angle to the frame and all that force is direted to a singular point (generally around the motor mounts and steering box) in short time you will start seeing cracks in the frame or worse break it in half.
 
if the dipping in the front due to plow weight is the issue, look for some over load springs from a 93-06 s10 pick up rear. put them in the front, they will not effect the ride but with the plows weight, it will keep the front from nose diving when driving/braking
 
First, thanks for taking the time to reply. More questions: are spring helpers something i can buy and install on my existing springs, or are they part of a new special- order spring set? Also, the tip on using s-10 springs is interesting but i`m not sure what an overload spring is. Is that a spring from a heavy-duty suspension equipped s-10 or were all s-10`s from the years you specified considered overloads? Also, can i use the s-10 springs on the back as well?
 

Not the best photo
leaf_springs04-1.jpg


See the flat spring on the bottom of the spring pack, thats the overload spring. When under regular driving conditions, it does not effect the ride quality at all, but when you start adding a ton of weight (hence why it is in the rear of most all pick ups) the spring only allows the srping to compress so much, not allowing it to negative arch. The benefit of the S10 is that they use a thick spring similar to what is found in 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks, but the spring is only 2.5" wideth, which is what you find in YJ's. all other 1/2 and 3/4 tons are 3" wide springs so you can't use them in mixing spring leafs in the pack.
 
Once again, thanks for taking the time to reply. I`m going to look into the s-10 spring conversion. Gives me an excuse to go junkyard diving!
 
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