2001 tj X

tjric

New member
I have had my jeep garaged for a few months, and not driven it, so the front diff started leaking fluid just a little bit. How do you check the fluid level in the diff? How much fluid should be in the front diff? How hard is it to pull the diff cover and re-seal it? Any advice would be appreciated.

THANX FOR THE HELP!!!!!!
 

I have had my jeep garaged for a few months, and not driven it, so the front diff started leaking fluid just a little bit. How do you check the fluid level in the diff? How much fluid should be in the front diff? How hard is it to pull the diff cover and re-seal it? Any advice would be appreciated.

THANX FOR THE HELP!!!!!!
First off to just check the level place your jeep on a level surface and unscrew the fill plug on the covers face ( its either a 3/8 or a 1/2 square drive, the same as a ratchet ), the fluid should be even with the bottom of the plug. A good quality 75-90 gear oil should do the trick, I have mine in a gallon jug with a pump, and fill it till it starts coming out. Then quickly put the plug back in, no need for thread sealant because the plug is tapered.

Now as to where its leaking, the front cover , the pinion seal ( around the front yoke where the drive shaft is connected) or along the drive axles?
The front cover is the easiest, just remove all the bolts around the cover and with a thin scraper pry off the cover. A two quart pan is needed to catch the fluid. A little brake parts cleaner to clean up the bottom of the pumpkin and wipe out the slush. With your scraper clean off the face of the differential housing and cover. Some people use a gasket, most don't and just buy a tube of RTV sealant and spread a thick amount around the face of the housing, making sure to get it around each bolt hole.
Bolt the cover back into place and torque to 20 LBS.
It will take about 1 1/2 quarts to refill the differential housing.

The pinion seal is a little more tricky since you will need to pull the drive line and front yoke to R&R the seal. It is also required that you check the pinion nuts torque before you unloosen it then re-torque it to the same torque + 5 LBS.

The drive axle seals is the hardest since you will have to pull the carrier out along with both wheels, bearing packs, and axle shafts. then with a long bar 4 feet plus and with some ones help you tap out both seals and replace them.
Then re-install everything in reverse order. You will need to keep track the which way the bearing caps came out left and right and top and bottom, along with any shims.
The bearing caps are re-torqued to 75-85 Lbs.

A good Chilton's or Haynes manual will help you with the latter two seal replacements since theres a lot I didn't say on these seal replacements.

I hope this helps.
 
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