32/26 Progressive Weber Carb Installed

87SixInlineYJ

New member
Well, I purchased my YJ about 2 weeks ago :shades: and figured ok, this is nice! Lets see what kinda power i can get out of this carburetor system. So, i got a 32/36 weber carb and slapped it in. Loctite the studs, tightened it down, set up my advanced vac line, my filter line, fuel line, float ball vac line, and plugged in the electric choke wire. 8) Im no rookie with engine work, although, in this case, i am the rookie in the carb department. Never touched one before so I made a few idiot mistakes, but quickly stepped backwards and fixed them.

Meanwhile, I go to start her up, and well all i get is it trying and trying to start but no turn over. I pour a little fuel inside the carb, and vroooom, it holds on for about a good ten seconds, and then it turns off.

Then I tweek the idle mixture a lil and get a little bit more of a consistent start like it wants to go, but still nothing consistent.

Curremtly, I am researching all vaccum lines. I have insured that there is no leak at the plates under the carb base.

All linkage appears to be functional and without hinderance.

...this is my saga, if there are any clever minds out there with a little more insite and may have traveled my routes in this vinture please add some knowledge. :?:

I will keep everyone posted!
 

Ok, so i double checked all my lines, conneceted the vapor vent to the canister which was not connected the first time and really should not have had a major impact. Made sure I had two fresh airfilter lines connected to the top of the engine.

After checking all those, I notice the fuel return line on the oil filter. To insure there to be no shortage of fuel, i plugged the return line (temp fix) and topped off a little more fuel in the carb. Started her up. She starts, an then about five seconds later; she dies again.

Now Im at the point that I have started her so many times that my battery is dead. So now I have to buy a new battery next week to continue my efforts. Until then, with a little jump start via cables; anyone have any other methods of fix?
 
Ok, so after researching online I found yet another mistake that I made that was not elaborated further in the directions of the weber kit.

Apparently, you are not supposed to adjust the electronic choke with your hand without opening the throttle linkage all the way. I had no idea. So what I did was move the choke back to where it was when I first installed the kit. ( i moved it initally because the wire for the choke from the engine was closer when the electronic choke was turned)

Anyway, so now what you are supposed to do is mark the position where the eltronic throttle is located, then open the throttle linkage, turn the lever on the eltronic choke, mark it again, and then close the throttle linkage.

You are not to make these adjustments with the engine being hotter than 68F.

Hopefully, when some one reads this looking to gain some knowledge, they will see my mistakes and talks about the unmentionables and have better results than me!

Still investgating.....
 
If this is the DGEV it reads like a fuel delivery issue. The return line will be necessary. Possibly a clogged sock in the fuel tank, debris in the in line filter, collapsing fuel line between the hard line and pump, the fuel pump should supply..I think 4 oz in 10 seconds or 8 oz in 30 or such as that. Could be a leak in the hard line..look for a darker spot along it..it will most likely not drip but the vapor will stain it.

As to the initial set up of the DGEV set the mix screw to 2 turns out from the bottom, an then the idle mix screw to 1 1/2 turns in once contact is made to the cast in stop.

You may want to put it on the bottle just to verify that these possible causes in the delivery is not the issue. If you do I would recommend to reroute the return into the container as well..if the pump is good you will soon see the volume of fuel the pump can move. Extreme care must be taken here.

If you find that debris from the lines being moved around be certain to remove the brass plug between the fuel horns. Inside it you will find a fine screen strainer..with care it is washable. Be sure to save the small gasket and re tighten the plug.
 

Ok cool, this is my mission today! The retun line is indeed needed; this is good to know. I can say that the fuel when I seperate the fuel line and turn the engine on; it just pours out slowly as if I was pouring a glass of water. Not sure what pressure that would be but now I see I need to purchase a gauge for that to moniter. I know that the fuel pump is new, spark pulgs are new, distributor is new as well as the cables.

I will report back today after my fuel line inspection.
 
Where is the fuel pouring from?

Keep the 1/4" nipple to the return directly over the 5/16" nipple feeding the carb on the dual outlet filter.

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Sorry but I only needed to reread to get an answer to that question. I really get concerned when advising the bottle use, be CAREFUL
 
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Okay, after a thorough check over the intire system we (myself and a carb specialist) discovered that for the 87 YJ, there is no need for a regulator for the fuel, just simply the advanced vac line with the two air cleaner outlets from the air cleaner to the valve cover and the fuel line into the fuel inlet of the carb. The fuel pump is mechanical on the 87 YJ and sits on the passenger side of the engine bay. It pumps plenty of fuel into the carb. The issue I had with my Weber was that I had the throttle so tight that it was slightly open and therefore prevented a vaccum inside of the carb. This in turn prevented the hold of the start or allowing the engine to turn over and stay on! This was my first carburator set up so I learned a hell of a lot. All the mistakes I made, I feel like a freaking pro! (yea probly not) lol

Thanks to those who added their advice!

TIME TO HIT THE SAND LOW CRAWLING! Ooorahhh!
 
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