87 YJ added to the family, shifter issue

Tr0nL0rd

New member
So I got a steal on a MPFI converted (correction->) 1988 YJ 4.2L a few days ago, its in great shape but I do have a few to do's. The T-case shifter is (like most) is hardly usable and the 5spd (ax15 i believe) requires allot, ALLOT of fishing for gears. Hopefully a few of you who are familiar with YJ's can point to a some parts to improve the shifter function. The T-case and AX15 function perfectly once you find the gear. steering also has a little play but not to bad.
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cool looking jeep. no idea on the issues you are having though, mine was an auto. i would check the mounts before opening anything up though, if htye are bad, it will bind on you when shifting anything
 
Transmission should be a Peugeot BA10/5 if it's original. AX15 wasn't introduced until mid '89. They can be easily identified as the BA10/5 has two clamshell case halves that bolt together with the seams running from front to back of the Jeep. The AX15 has 1" intermediate plates and the seams run side to side.

You might improve shifting and make the transmission last longer by draining the transmission and using a quality synthetic gear oil like Redline.

As for steering, have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you inspect every tierod end, pitman arm, and suspension bushing. This will reveal side to side play and worn parts.
 

great info, I remember the seam being side to side but I'll crawl under tomorrow and make sure.
 
Post a pic of transmission.

When you change the gear oil, watch the old oil for brass glitter. That's the remains of the synchronizers.
 

The trans is in fact a BA10/5, flushed and bled brakes and was trying to bleed the clutch... swapped the fluid in the reservoir a few times and pumped the pedal, is there a better way to do that in a yj?
I'll drain and fill the trans tomorrow when my paycheck drops (I love being broke) what weight gear oil should I use?
Old VS New
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Run Redline MT90 if you can find it. I always mail ordered mine from Summit racing.

Otherwise run a synthetic 75w90 or similar weight.

You should have a clutch bleeder valve at the bellhousing where the clutch line enters. Pump the hell out of the pedal and have someone hold it. Open close the bleeder just as you would brakes to bleed it.

You can run all the fluid out the bleeder by leaving it open and pumping the clutch, if you don't mind bleeding them again after refilling.
 
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