Nobody has ever experienced anything like this? I am about ready to puncture the gas tank and throw a match under it; what should I have for voltage at the MAP with everything working as it should, and TPS unhooked? I have 4.69 unhooked and 4.94 connected; the difference being 1/4 volt sounds like about right with everything connected and when it is working correctly; I again have the clockspring unhooked, no change so I can eliminate that (again) from the possibilities.
97 XJ TPS circuit; HELPPP!
- Thread starter volaredon
- Start date
yeah; I finally found a 1997 complete underhood wire harness; it came off a 10/96 build date vehicle; mine was 02/97; the main difference was that the junkyard refugee was a "SPORT" with crank windows and no foglights, mine is a "COUNTRY" with power everything (except power seats) the biggest thing is the JY harness deos not have the terminals for the power for the foglights in the underhood fusebox (big deal that don't bother me)
but since I get exatly teh same results with this harness as with the original I will be swapping the original harness back in.
Also; a 98 harness WILL NOT WORK on a 97 unless you also bring the transmission, plus the TCM and ECM with you to switch over from the 98....
I have replaced the harness twice on this thing..... it will run with the 98 harness but no way to connect the trans solenoid plug. the NSS does hook up the same allowing engine to start.
one thing I know my problemn is NOT however is the clockspring; though as many times as I have connected/unconnected it I am probably wearing out the terminal connectors....
54cj3b
New member
Before I write a book try this
turn key to on position with out starting jeep , do you hear your fuel pump kick in
should be a humming sound
if not 90% time it needs replace but 1st try this this is just a simple test
key in on position kick or bang front of tank if pump kicks in it can be 2 things pump is going out or a loose wire
turn key to on position with out starting jeep , do you hear your fuel pump kick in
should be a humming sound
if not 90% time it needs replace but 1st try this this is just a simple test
key in on position kick or bang front of tank if pump kicks in it can be 2 things pump is going out or a loose wire
mind my asking what "computer" you'd throw on there? I have a Snap on 2500 scanner.
I know doing so via forum sight unseen is hard....
I keep getting 2 schools of thought; airbag clockspring and wiring short; the clockspring is disconnected with no change and I have had 3 different wiring harnesses on this Jeep; you sayin all 3 are bad?? I doubt that.
I am trying to resist an "en-mass" sensor changeout as I realize I could replace em all and still be at square one.
I have been to so many junkyards, several afternoons and "$2 entry fees" wasted to find no 97 Cherokees in the lot bought '96 parts and '98 parts that I then found out WON'T WORK on a 97... ( '98wiring harness and '96 computer) before I found actual parts from a 97 model; lotsa time and $$wasted there already; I have a 97 harness and computer on there now both are junkyard sourced reolacements; but I was able to use enouth of the 96 computer (runs but no gauges) and 98 computer (nothing to do with trans will plug into a 97 but the rest will) to prove that my originals are not the problem nore are the replacement 97 parts because I STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM!
is that the same year manual? I have a FSM for the 97 and have been quite wrapped up in the majorly confusing schematics; the wiring diagram section in my 97 Ram Truck manual is easier to follow than the Jeep one IDK why they made the Cherokee one such a cluster#*ck. I have been more into tracing the TPS circuit and working from there outwards from the schematic.
(and a disclaimer; I'm not saying the 97 Dodge truck FSM would allow me to figure out this Jeep, or that I would use that one, instead of the "right manual for the application" just makin comment on the differences in layout.
I have many Chrysler service manuals dating back into the 70s. and this one is the most complicated of the bunch the way they have the wiring schematic section set up.
I wish I knew someone like you that was closer to me, that could come by and I could put my head with theirs and figure this thing out.
(and a disclaimer; I'm not saying the 97 Dodge truck FSM would allow me to figure out this Jeep, or that I would use that one, instead of the "right manual for the application" just makin comment on the differences in layout.
I have many Chrysler service manuals dating back into the 70s. and this one is the most complicated of the bunch the way they have the wiring schematic section set up.
I wish I knew someone like you that was closer to me, that could come by and I could put my head with theirs and figure this thing out.
I have never seen anything but "general" auto repair books in any library I have ever been to.. though living in the country as I do isnt like going to one in a "big city" either.
the book I have is the 1997 Cherokee Factory Service manual, and within it makes several references to some "powertrain diagnostics manual" that I don't have.
Apparently fairly well; I DO NOT believe this but I think it may be fixed;
Everyone between here and 3-4 other Jeep based forums said to either replace the clockspring the TPS itself or both; way early on I swapped on a "known good" TPS from a 98 Durango; PN was 1 numbre off and it was a bit bulkier shape than the one on here but it fit and the plug in was the same so I tried it; no change. I have had the orig TPS unplugged and reconnected thru testing so many times my head hurt; and I had the same test results with the TPS connected or unplugged;
I have not touched this Jeep in about 2 months, it has been dead for 6.
I decided screw it, after 2 junkyard wire harnesses and 2 junkyard ECMs + my head spinning from all the poking and prodding I did looking elsewhere my fluke meter died (wore out the internal battery meter's fine) and all the time with teh snap on scanner attached, I decided to go to RockAuto and buy all the sensors on that 5VREF wire and just change em all;
I started with the TPS and everything is back to normal;
how can that be, since I got the same readings from the TPS whether connected (via the scanner) or unplugged and poking the innards of the plug with the Fluke???
so now I get to put everything back together, put the insurance back on it and take it to the body shop to get the windshield pulled the channel de rusted and resealed...... I am horrible with glued in glass, crack it 8 out of 10 times I go to pull it...
With the condition that the rest of this Jeep is in I hope to have it around long enough to at least double the odometer reading it only has 125K on it. My wife has been on me like crazy to fix this thing it has driven me nuts.....
I am not counting blessings yet though; this thing had me so frazzled that I am not sure that this was "it", yet.
altan
New member
You know what I did a standard to auto swap on a jeep Comanche once and the dam thing wouldn't shift unless I hit 3500-4000 rpm turns out that even the tsp looked the same they were different I put the one in from the jeep that I got the auto from and then it worked grate. Grate to hear buddy that it's finally fixed
ran it over 100 miles yesterday and though it has been sitting 6 months I dont ever remember that particular Jeep having that much power and zip; it had always seemed a little "down" as compared to the 01 I had prior to it; but still better than the 4.0 in my same-year TJ; (that one needs better gearing; 3.07s suck)
BUT while this XJ was down I sent the injectors into a BOSCH place for a rebuild and cleaning;
I took the header off and welded up the cracks with my MIG;
and though it now has the wiring harness back on it that it was "born with" but I left the junkyard sourced computer on it; IDK what the difference is but this one is marked "AC" while the orig was an "AD"; I still have that original one in the garage. but man does that thing run good!
From what I remember back before I had to park this thing back in July, I dont remember this thing being as peppy as it is now.... it's almost like I swapped a bigger motor into it as compared to before.... I mean like now its hard to take off w/o spinning the tires; it never used to be like that.... and that's giving what seems a "normal" amount of gas pedal; I have yet to come close to "flooring it".
BUT while this XJ was down I sent the injectors into a BOSCH place for a rebuild and cleaning;
I took the header off and welded up the cracks with my MIG;
and though it now has the wiring harness back on it that it was "born with" but I left the junkyard sourced computer on it; IDK what the difference is but this one is marked "AC" while the orig was an "AD"; I still have that original one in the garage. but man does that thing run good!
From what I remember back before I had to park this thing back in July, I dont remember this thing being as peppy as it is now.... it's almost like I swapped a bigger motor into it as compared to before.... I mean like now its hard to take off w/o spinning the tires; it never used to be like that.... and that's giving what seems a "normal" amount of gas pedal; I have yet to come close to "flooring it".
REALLY? When I look up Computer ID with my scanner it says its a "49 state" computer; with Chrysler that suffix was usually a "revision status"; the part NUMBER is the same, but "AA" is 1st edition; "AB" is 2nd edition; "AC" is 3rd edition "AD" is 4th etc I wonder what they changed between the AC and AD versions?
1 more problem with this Jeep to solve; a rusty windshield track; I had a body shop tell me to drive til it leaks then junk it with the condition of the rest of this thing and given the price that XJs still bring (just look at CL they are nuts and have no regard for Blue book or any other guide)
I still see people wanting $3500 for 97s with 210K miles on them and beat up....
I figure if I can fix this I am at least $200 ahead of the game to fix this one as in $$ I dont hafta pay the State of IL in license and title fees on another one....even if somehow I found a replacement for free... I hate paying them anything.
altan
New member
Thanks for the confirmation on the computer and the problem is most body shops don't like rust because what looks to be a small job turns out to be a big job I would get it fixed for sure but I bet it would be more like 500 to do but I recommend to cut out the rust and weld new metal in don't just bondo it ( not saying you would) like most ppl
I taped off the glass with cardboard and the roofline,front clip, and front doors with old bedsheets and sandblasted the channel around the window the pinchweld the window sets in looks good but there are pinholes in the "vertical" leg of the channel in 2 spots, driver side bottom along the A pillar and along the top pass side. the only issue along the bottom is a few pinholes in the back edge of the cowl which gets covered buy a panel anyways;
I put 2 heavy coats of POR 15 in the channel once I blew out the sand. now I need some kind of "gasket in a tube" to fill in where the rubber gasket used to go. not sure what to go with here.
I put 2 heavy coats of POR 15 in the channel once I blew out the sand. now I need some kind of "gasket in a tube" to fill in where the rubber gasket used to go. not sure what to go with here.
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