AAAAUGHHHHHHHHHH. Need help!!!!

Well its up and running. Repaired a fused link, replaced a fuel pump, fuel sending unit and the line from the tank to the hard line. Still got a little bit to go on getting it to pass smog but it runs better than before. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. see you on the next post. There is much more to do.
Jim
 
what is it connected to inside the passenger area? There are a couple of connections in that general area. It may very well be a wire for the coil, netural safety switch, oil pressure sending unit, oil low pressure stuff off (if equipped) or just a wire that someone else ran that is no longer in use. . Unlike GM or Ford, AMC did not always use standardized wire colors over the years.

Remembering what you said that AMC was not consistent with color coding year to year , but I thought if there is a chance that my 1980 CJ 4cyl. Diagram would be helpful , I would recite from it. Jim said that his tach wire is purple ? My '80 shows a purple as a OIL pressure and a black/wh as the tach connection. A purple w/TR is a TEMPERATURE sender . No color mentioned for tracer.
I wanted to capture the page on camera and send it in post but they never seem to come out ledgable or print too small . If my 1980 diagram is helpful and more is needed , I'll post more connections as the page shows the electronic engine control ( dura spark ) as well . Since this jeep was factory 4 cyl. , I thought this may be helpful if it is needed. Hope this helps .

P.s.- that black w-white tracer winds around a bit , if needed , I can recite as well .
 
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OK I found the electrical issue. Looks like they cut the fused link out and crimped the wire together. The crimp was not a very good one and had pulled out. I'll pick one up on the way back from PT. Now the gas issue is all I have to worry about. The gage said 1/4 tank. I did pour a couple of gallons of gas into it the night before last. I'll get some more and see if I'm out of gas. LOL I better not be. I'll have to take the jeep away from myself for a week.

according to my 4cyl. Diagram , a red wire of #10 GA. Starts from firewall connector location 120 to a splice which become a red 14 GA. Fusible link to a connector the diagram now calls 12A red 14 GA. fusible link to a splice to now become 12B red 10 GA. to a connector to become 12E red 10 GA. to a double connector called , you guessed it , 12E . This double connector branches off to a brown 24 ga 15 ohm resistor wire to location 78 at the firewall connector ; a wire from that same connection (12E) , goes to choke relay location 102 is a brown 16 gauge. That of course splits into two , if you need that or any else , let us know . Sure would be easier if I can send to you if your CHILTON or Haynes diagrams are lacking . Hoping policemonkey161 has better diagrams and at least mine agree with all so far. Hope this helps to . Greg
 
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The Chilton manual shows a purple wire to the ignition. I found the purple wire in the harness when looking for the no start issue. I later dug behind the dash. I have the end of the purple wire attached to nothing. So I pulled out the connected to nothing tach connector with a yellow and a black white and maybe another. Cant recall right now. Does your manual show where the Black /tr from the firewall goes. Id love to see where it used to go and what is there now.
 
The Chilton manual shows a purple wire to the ignition. I found the purple wire in the harness when looking for the no start issue. I later dug behind the dash. I have the end of the purple wire attached to nothing. So I pulled out the connected to nothing tach connector with a yellow and a black white and maybe another. Cant recall right now. Does your manual show where the Black /tr from the firewall goes. Id love to see where it used to go and what is there now.

Im pretty upset that my 4cyl diagram , the one we need that best applies to your jeep since it left the factory a four cylinder , does not go under the dash ! I will try to compare the six cylinder diagram to see if it is useful for us , but will have to get on that tomorrow , meaning about twelve hours from this post time . Regret the magnifying glass and penlight are playing tricks on my eyes and I need daylight to try again . Will try again , but this diagram is not all I expected , just a reprint and I guess not complete. Hoping for the best . Greg
 

The Chilton manual shows a purple wire to the ignition. I found the purple wire in the harness when looking for the no start issue. I later dug behind the dash. I have the end of the purple wire attached to nothing. So I pulled out the connected to nothing tach connector with a yellow and a black white and maybe another. Cant recall right now. Does your manual show where the Black /tr from the firewall goes. Id love to see where it used to go and what is there now.

the purple wire which comes from the position 96 from firewall connector of 16 ga. winds up on a plug to tach. If I read this diagram right , and have the correct application , the connector on the drivers side becomes a violet ( not purple ?) wire 16 ga. from position 96 to the tach. I'm sorry I cannot do better , but this diagram has got to be worth something. It's a reprint from Willys overland and I hope it's complete although I'm not sure it is . I'm trying to follow a 4 cyl. diagram (mind you , this is a 1980 diagram) as your jeep is factory 4 cyl. . A yellow wire to the tach as well , and a yellow to the wiper switch . Hope I'm right . Are these the only stray wires ? Is all else accounted for and is almost all working ? I remember you said nearly everything works , but I'm wondering should I try looking up what is not working ?
forgot to mention that the black/tr wire in question , as near as I can tell , becomes that violet wire from the 96 position. I'm guessing that it is next to or impossible to read the numbers on the connectors or firewall bulkhead connector ? Just wondering if that is possible since I have seen cars , particularly PCM harness that numbers and/or letters mark positions. I did not know if AMC was good that way of if even any of the marking is worn ?
 
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The behind the dash scene on this vehicle has seen better days. I intend on pulling it off so I can reach back and trace the wires easier. I found 3 factory connectors and 4 caveman blade terminals not going anywhere in total. Everything on the dash works, all the lights and gauges except for the Tach and the clock. The clock was unplugged and plugging it in on the fuse panel did not remedy the problem. I cant say for sure if the fan works though. I'll have a hard time distinguiishing purple from Violet LOL. If you look at the bulkhead connector from the engine bay the lower right corner has a black with a white tracer. Any Idea what that is for. thanks Greg. this is appreciated.
Jim
 
Would this be a factory install tach and clock? If so, the tach would be plugged into the harness with a male and oppossing female connector at the dash. All CJ7 supposelly have this tie-in regardless if it's a Larado.
 

The behind the dash scene on this vehicle has seen better days. I intend on pulling it off so I can reach back and trace the wires easier. I found 3 factory connectors and 4 caveman blade terminals not going anywhere in total. Everything on the dash works, all the lights and gauges except for the Tach and the clock. The clock was unplugged and plugging it in on the fuse panel did not remedy the problem. I cant say for sure if the fan works though. I'll have a hard time distinguiishing purple from Violet LOL. If you look at the bulkhead connector from the engine bay the lower right corner has a black with a white tracer. Any Idea what that is for. thanks Greg. this is appreciated.
Jim

your most welcome Jim . Special thanks to members 69jeepcj and policemonkey161 for their help and CJ expertise ! On the firewall side , the diagram shows a position 96 which can be said as lower right if one is sitting in drivers seat as we know a manual will always say to differentiate left , right , fore and aft , as going to TACH connection . Although the diagram does not specifically have a ign. coil next to this connection , its close to an alternator , starter and distributor so we know it will go to the harness clip for the coil as next to it is the COIL connection. On the inside , it magically changes to violet and goes to tach on dash. But I must agree , you are right to remove the dash as not only are they just a joy to do , but it relieves sanity and helps you to work normal and not like an astronaut in space while fighting blacking out from the blood rushing to your feet , not that THAT isn't fun ! But it took me until the day I removed my dash on my '92xj to find three shorted wires and two chaffed. Blew out a/c thermostats for several seasons via slow death. Although I like my diagram , I'm hoping its correct for your application , but if I really make sense of it and it really is complete as I THINK it is , I should be able to be more helpful to you and to the jeeps owner , the misses . Best of luck Jim and please work safely , I see the humor is waiting to surface from you but right now your just too busy !
If your able to , when you can of course , could we see pics ? Whatever issues with wiring and what ales you , I mean , ails you , pictures help my pea brain . Thanks Jim and best of luck . Greg
 
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As far as the behind the dash wiring A pic of a bowl of spaghetti would be easier to trace out. This weekend I removed 4 splices that just pulled apart. # wire runs had about 2 foot of wire coiled up and taped against the harness and there's the two wires that don't go anywhere but are factory wires. I'll get it straightened out. You guys are great and the help is truly a lifesaver.. I'll try to get the dash off this weekend after I rebuild the carb. Thank goodness I can do that in the dishwasher and finish up on the kitchen table.
Jim
 
As far as the behind the dash wiring A pic of a bowl of spaghetti would be easier to trace out. This weekend I removed 4 splices that just pulled apart. # wire runs had about 2 foot of wire coiled up and taped against the harness and there's the two wires that don't go anywhere but are factory wires. I'll get it straightened out. You guys are great and the help is truly a lifesaver.. I'll try to get the dash off this weekend after I rebuild the carb. Thank goodness I can do that in the dishwasher and finish up on the kitchen table.
Jim

going to try a subscription at alldatadiy.com and see if they are any better and let you know .
Pother people's "handiwork" is our worst nightmare but I admire your courage as I would take the same approach if the wires were in reasonably good shape to . The right diagram will get it done so I'm hoping for the best . Will try autozone online first to see what can be found there. They usually are good like that. I second removing the dash , that's the only way to work like a human being and actually see what your doing. I rebuilt my first carburetor on my kitchen counter and table , it just seems natural and comfortable , we just got to prepare it right and remember to keep an eye on what's cooking to avoid smoke ! Lol. Wish I had a dishwasher , I hear people wash tools that way and it works great ! We ought to get that harness up to spec without the purchase of a painless wiring replacement as that is pricy and I don't know if they are " on size fits all " . You know your harness is correct so yes , well worth trying that first.
All right Jim , best of luck as always and will look for your posts . Thanks again brother , greg
 

Alldatadiy.com is subscribed per vehicle , does anyone know of an inexpensive subscription to this effect that has the most complete data available for any year,make and model ?
 
Other than the stray wires and the need to get behind the dash, I think I'm doing pretty good right now. Rebuilt the carb last night and replaced most of the vacuum lines. When we got it we were able to nurse it up to 55 on the highway. With new plugs wires and rotor and the carb rebuild top speed is a blazing 75 MPH. Just need to time it and take it down to the smog shop on Monday. Tried to time it today but I could not see the flash and the light does not get along with the fan. So I'll wait till it gets dark. Maybe I can hit 80 after that.
 
I'm hoping that the info given from my 1980 Willys overland reprint helped as the subscription to alldatadiy.com is only for one vehicle per subscription . It won't be very helpful for us . Am happy that progress is making headway and I too believe once the dash is off , you will be able to see and work more clearly and be able to rewire if necessary by component instead of just tracing wires . By component is better as you can repair and replace what is there and if something is missing you will know what to replace and then rewire. I like that better than trying to find where a wire comes from and where it goes. With the dash off , you can see what your doing and that is a blessing and will help to get every connection right.
 
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