Best dana 60 front axle for TJ?

ktmrider63

New member
I'm currently looking to buy a dana 60 front axle for my TJ. I'm pretty sure the ford 77-79? dana 60 fronts would be the best way to go since they have the driver side drop with the high pinion, kingpins, etc. But I can't seem to find one and if there is one the price is stupidly high. I'll also be running atleast 37" tires with a v8 behind them.

So my questions are:

What axle would be next on the list to get?

If I went with a passenger side drop, would I have to buy a new transfer case?

Can a passenger side drop work at all with the stock 231?

I found a dodge axle with a drivers side drop out of a 2001, but it has balljoints. Are kingpins almost a must over balljoints if i'm using that big a tire?
 

I don't think a 231 can be flipped to work with a passenger side drop front axle. So, yes you would need a new TC.

A passenger side drop would aslo mean either a different transmission or an adapter to mate the transmission and TC up because of the different front face bolt setups.
The Jeep New Process / NVG 231 Transfer Case

My 79 Ford D60 I paid through the nose for it. But at the same time it came with the 35spline inners and outers, detroit locker, 5.13 gears, Warn Flanges and a high steer setup. It took about 6 months to find it on ebay. Never got lucky in the junk yards.

Best of luck to you.

Bacon
 
If I was to get a passenger side drop, what transfer case would you recommend?

And I would be using a 4L60E as a transmission.
 
This might help....

The GM 4L60E Transmission -

You could also probably pull a TC from a right hand drop axle. OR find a TC that can be flipped to work with a passenger side drop.

What did your 4L60E come out of? Maybe try to find another vehical that uses that transmission and pull it in the junkyard. This would probably be the best bet on making sure the mate up correctly.

Good luck

Bacon
 

Not to sound like a jerk or anything, but do you think you should really be doing this swap if you don't know these things already? There's a lot of grubs to be swallowed for something crazy like this.

As far as transfer cases, if you are going with a passenger swap, the Dana 300 would work well, but, if you want to ravage some 37's, I'd say go with a SM 4 speed mated to a 205 t-case. You could also sell your 4L60 and get some extra cash.

As far as axles go, google what trucks came stock with Dana 60, GM 14... whatever, and look in the junkyards for those junky trucks.

For instance, my friend just bought a complete Ford Highboy frame with a divorced case and a pair of 60's for $70. Yes sir, seventy dollars. I spent more than that on brake hoses.
 
I don't have a single clue about this stuff, that is why I'm asking.

I know what vehicles the dana's come out of, I'm just wondering if it's really that big of a deal if I go with a dodge 60 with balljoints instead of scrounging around for a ford with kingpings.

And using a passenger drop would be a last resort sort of thing.


I'd be using the 4L60 for the overdrive also.
 
Well, with ball joints, they don't really turn quite as tight as an open knuckle. Strength shouldn't be an issue. The friend who bought that highboy frame is putting 50 and some odd inch tractor tires on his 60's and his front axle is closed knuckle as well. I think strength-wise, you'd be fine.

Since you said you have no clue about this stuff, I'll give some background info. You'll have to weld mounts on the axles for your coil suspension, get longer brake hoses, extended cv driveshafts, sway bars, bumpstops, and steering rods among other things I can't think of.

Now, also, you mentioned you want the overdrive, so here's what I would do. I would keep the gearing around 4.10 (should be around there for 60's) get one of those SM 4 speeds and use the 4th as the overdrive. Because those 4 speeds have an extreme low gear, your crawl ratio would be fine with 37's. Then, an NP205 or Dana 300 would top it off.

I'm just trying to give you budget minded ideas.
 

'77-'79 D60's are not closed knuckle, they're open knuckle. Don't know why you're comparing balljoints to an open knuckle, that's apples and oranges.

For a pass. drop transfer case, I believe some 241C are pass. drop and will bolt to the 4L60E.

If you want to find a Ford HP60, scour the obscure junkyards, search piles of axles, and hope the yard doesn't know what they have. Many jeepers pick up heavy axles for pennies on the dollar using this method.
 
Well, with ball joints, they don't really turn quite as tight as an open knuckle. Strength shouldn't be an issue. The friend who bought that highboy frame is putting 50 and some odd inch tractor tires on his 60's and his front axle is closed knuckle as well. I think strength-wise, you'd be fine.

Since you said you have no clue about this stuff, I'll give some background info. You'll have to weld mounts on the axles for your coil suspension, get longer brake hoses, extended cv driveshafts, sway bars, bumpstops, and steering rods among other things I can't think of.

Now, also, you mentioned you want the overdrive, so here's what I would do. I would keep the gearing around 4.10 (should be around there for 60's) get one of those SM 4 speeds and use the 4th as the overdrive. Because those 4 speeds have an extreme low gear, your crawl ratio would be fine with 37's. Then, an NP205 or Dana 300 would top it off.

I'm just trying to give you budget minded ideas.


Yeah i'm going to be grinding all of the stock stuff off and putting my own mounts, disc brakes, along with a lift, etc.

I have a HD dana 60 with 4.10's so the only thing thats holding me up is the front. Was just curious if balljoints are as bad as some people make them out to be.


And doesn"t the 4L60 have a lower then normal first gear ratio? I thought I read that somewhere or maybe it was another transmission

And thanks for the scrounging method bounty, i'll have to go junkyard surfing this weekend 8)
 

I was in a local junk yard last weekend, and we poulled a D60 from a 85 dually F350 for $60. Needs calipers and the huns machined down for a SRW wideth.

Also look for F350's and E350 with 4wd conversion sitting in peoples yards that rusting away, people are willing to get rid of vehicles that are cluttering up yards. I got my D60 that way, I recently bought an entire non-running K30 with a missing drivetrain and rotted body for $350, took the axles and junked the body for scrap and got $150 for it so I got a 60 and 14 bolt for $200. then I resold them on craigslist for $900. Deals are out there, you need to look hard.
 
An SM420 has a 6.98 low. I doubt an auto transmission has that. It could, though.

That would make a better crawling transmission then the 4L60 plus the 1:1 ratio in 4th is still decent. Though i'm going more for a cruiser/trail blazer moreso than a hardcore mudder or crawler


I feel like a craigslist junkie. But i'll have this weekend free for once so i'll be able to see what the junkyards have to offer.
 
The first gear in a 4L60-E is 3.06,1.63,1.1,.70 same as the 700R4.

Several of the 4L65 of 4L70 have a slightly lower first but I dont remember which ones or the gear ratio's.
 

That would make a better crawling transmission then the 4L60 plus the 1:1 ratio in 4th is still decent. Though i'm going more for a cruiser/trail blazer moreso than a hardcore mudder or crawler

Well, not that it would make it a better crawling transmission, but it would make it a regular transmission. The super low gear of an SM can be just a normal 1st gear with 37's and 4.10's. Then the 1:1 4th can act like an overdrive. That way, you get a bulletproof transmission and t-case (assuming a 205 is available) and a faux overdrive all for a cheap price.

For example, if you had this setup, at 65mph, your engine would be turning a smooth 2420 rpms. That's just about right.

Sorry if you already knew this, but conversations on the internet can be confusing.
 
2400 is kind of high isn't it? My truck runs at about 1700 rpms at 60 and 2000 at 70, though it isn't pushing around 37's. though i will be putting in an LS1 engine, and it tends to favor the higher rpms...
 
2400 is kind of high isn't it? My truck runs at about 1700 rpms at 60 and 2000 at 70, though it isn't pushing around 37's. though i will be putting in an LS1 engine, and it tends to favor the higher rpms...

From what I've gathered on 4wd and Sport Utility's newer article on fuel savings, if you are under your peak torque, yet it doesn't bog down, you'll get acceptable mileage. The LS1's peak torque is at 4400 rpm.

Also, looking at a generic gear tire chart, you'd be in the "Good Fuel Economy" section. http://www.superlift.com/images/misc/gear-chart.gif
 
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