Bleeding these '02 Taurus ABS brakes

[bradleyheathhays]

Just changing out both front flexible brakes lines that go to the calipers on my Mum's '02 Taurus (99k miles) and although I've bled my '96 Cherokee's brakes lines before I haven't done an ABS system and I've been told I need to activate the solenoids in the ABS module while bleeding in order to get all the air out. The two options I've been given is to either have a reader that's advanced enough to do it itself, or to bleed like normal, safely/slowly get to a gravel road or slick area where you can get on the brakes hard and activate the ABS system. After wards do another 2 person bleed. Go out to slide around once more, return and do the final bleed and everything should be good.


Is this an ok way to bleed the lines or do I need to spend the $ on a more advanced reader and do it that way?

 

[JPNinPA]

Check your local Oriellys to see if they lend out the scann tool. Mine does but most of the time i use it in their parking lot.
Their lend program is you buy it and get refunded when it is returned. Do expect a $600 charge that you will get back.

Never look down on anyone unless you are helping them up - Jesse Jackson

 

[mark sr]

I've never had any issues bleeding ABS brakes the old fashion way .... maybe I've just been lucky.

 

[JPNinPA]

Little research shows the 2002 taurus ABS is not a separate unit from master cylinder and does not appear to have its own bleeder valve. So you may be able to do a regular bleed and get all the air out.
Just be sure to keep the master cylinder full.
If you emptied it when changing lines you might gravity bleed first. Then pump, hold and bleed method.


Never look down on anyone unless you are helping them up - Jesse Jackson

 

[superj]

i use the old fashioned way too and its been many many years since i have had a vehicle without abs. probably since 93 to 97 time frames. i know my 65 mustang didn't ahve abs nor did my 70 karmann ghia

 

[bradleyheathhays]

After replacing both front flexible brake lines and tightening everything back up I go to start flushing all 4 lines as the fluid is due to be flushed and there are tiny bubbles galore vacuum bleeding at all four brakes. Because I changed out the front lines I bleed those first just to get fluid in there. Although I keep the fluid reservoir filled during this whole process I get lots of continuous bubbles starting with bleeding the front lines, and then with both the rear. Working the hand vacuum pump through all this got Really tiring as 95% of what was coming through was bubbles. But I was determined to get all the old brake fluid out so I end up running just short of a 32oz can through all the lines until the fluid is clean, but I still have the bubble issue.

Only thing I can think of is that I got turned around somehow and when I went to loosen the first old front brake line from the solid line I ended up tightening the compression fitting (?) about 2 full turns instead of loosening. Not having replaced a brake line in a while I'd forgotten brake lines generally loosen right up once they're cracked. But dumb me forced that D#!& nut around twice and I'm guessing ruined the threads at that connection, and now that's what's giving me all the bubbles. The hex part or 'nut' I over-tightened is on the hard line that comes in from the left in the pic below.

Only 3 places I'm sure the air ISN"T coming from is the reservoir (as it was always filled), the soft line connection point top bleed screws, or where the vac line attaches to the bleeder screws as I watched the air come directly out of all the screw holes.

Note, the picture shows some brake fluid on the threads of the nut I over-tightened. As a test I wiped the fluid off then pumped and mashed on the brake pedal hard (spongy) but no fluid came out again at that connection, it stayed dry. I guess it was on there from when I put it back together.

Any advice on what to do next or how to figure out if the bubbles are coming from the connection I may have ruined?

 

[JPNinPA]

Ok i just vac bleed my sons car and got bubbles. Even though i didn’t drain the system prior, vac bleeding caused bubbles. Its the vac or fluid some say the threads on the bleeder valve. If you do the old pump and hold you will not get bubbles even after just vac bleeding. If the bleeder valve put some grease around the base in the threads.

Another thought if air could get in fluid will come out. Look for leaks.


If there is no sequence recommended, start bleeding at the furthest from the master.

Never look down on anyone unless you are helping them up - Jesse Jackson

 

[JPNinPA]

How did it go?


Never look down on anyone unless you are helping them up - Jesse Jackson

 

[superj]

That what I am wondering too